steve b

...how completely nuts , I can see why you are frustrated with it . In that case what are the engine and gearbox mounts like ? cheers Steveb

Look at the other listings on his ID , not just many cages in the same vein but towbars too . It's a shame the design is so poor as the tube work looks to be pretty good. Steveb

Is it a single or twin box exhaust ? I'm wondering if the main box has lost it's filling . Can you strap that camera underneath near the main box and do the drive test again? The engine itself sounds normal from the video but the droning is clearly audible inside . It would bug me too cheers Steveb

If it's clunking in then out on the key it would suggest not enough current to crank it . Get the battery discharge tested and if ok replace the main earth and live to starter . do you know if it's a pre-engaged starter or inertia ? cheers Steveb

Yep I'd agree , although I've never tried that . If the vehicle runs it must be producing something to keep the FP sol. on ..... A better test would be to disconnect the main current wire and stick an ammeter in the connection and then run it . The ammeter would need to be 50a to cope with the charge spike on start up ...of course if the batteries are fully charged the alt. won't do much amps wise , the voltage when running should be 13 - 14.4v iirc cheers Steveb

It should show battery voltage on the main current wire -brown- at all times , regardless of alternator activity . If 0v is correct you have a break in the main current wire cheers Steveb

Hi and welcome to LR4x4 Is it diesel or petrol ? either way , as said above firstly check the earth connections to chassis and engine , if the leads are old there could well be cracks internally and/or bad joints to terminals . New properly made leads often make a world of difference . This also applies to the main battery live going to the starter . It's best to have an earth direct from the battery -ve to the engine then earth engine to chassis and bulkhead with lighter gauge leads cheers Steveb

That rear light layout is right for late 109's Snagger , I've worked on a few that are like that . I did wonder if the front axle brace was dropped for the later case profile cheers Steveb

Looks pretty good Steve . The bit I would be checking is the rear of the chassis where rust stains can be seen through the paint. I also note there are no pic's of the drivers side bodywork , was looking to see if the rear tub is correct - no filler to the rear . Rear light layout is correct I think for a late SIII . I also see the front axle is not braced , which I thought was common across all Mil. 109's . It may still have the 1 ton brakes of course cheers Steveb

What I don't get is the 3 yr gap until the release of the replacement? at least that's what the BBC just said cheers Steveb

BBC breakfast has just done part one of a tribute to the LandRover and for once there was no mention of global warming !! The Classic Car show on ITV 4 did a nice piece on the Range Rover last night too cheers Steveb

Farm Power / Gwaza do top and bottom pins cat 0 / 1 / 2 and lots of handy trailer spares etc no vested interest , just use them a bit for the lighter end of Ag stuff and trailer spares cheers Steveb

3 & 4 were clean because of the coolant in the combustion 1 & 2 sound normal . Are you going to get the head checked ? cheers Steveb

If you put it in transfer box neutral when stationary does it still make any noise thru the gears ? Is there any noise in reverse ? I would tend to agree with your mechanic in that complete trans failure is highly unlikely . Maybe drain the main gearbox oil and see what comes out ? cheers Steveb

My reasons for suggesting a 3t trolley jack are not about lift rating but a) large dished pad -often with rubber anti-slip insert b) larger wheels/castors = easier to move around c) wider track and wheelbase so much more stable d) long handle fixed into pump lever inc. lower function so much easier to position and raise/lower and e) often have a quick raise function until under load . I have the std Disco 2stage bottle jack in the LR , but gave up with little trolley jacks a long while ago . What ever you use be safe and take your time cheers Steveb

Tool suppliers such as Sealey often do deals on 3 ton trolley jacks including 2x 3 tonne ratchet stands . If you are going to do work on your own truck you will find a decent trolley jack with a good long handle very handy cheers Steveb

I think you have it there Kurt , It may be worth getting the head checked for flatness and pressure tested while it's off as you only recently replaced the HG and maybe new genuine headbolts. cheers Steveb

G-mack and Kurt , what airfilters etc do you use ? Std pipework or modded ? I have noticed some intake noise at tickover from some raised air intakes over the years. Maybe hooking up a cheapo vac/boost gauge to the airfilter housing would tell more ? I would think it should hover around neutral to slight vac? cheers Steveb

£10k for what ?? just because it has ac ? unbelieveable I really do think some of these sellers are living in a different world to most of us . A mate picked up one of those about 4 yrs ago , with a 200Tdi and gearbox to go in , in better nick for under £2k I know the market changes over time and there is export value to consider ...but £10k? cheers Steveb

Ah industrial stress relief.... Steveb

All the 'boxes and axles have breathers , so not air tight but they are small bore so pulling the level plugs stops the drain flow gulping . I use Jayars motor factors for general parts , and for oils Ipswich hose and Hydraulics on the farthing Road ind. est. are competitive on 25l drums you will need a T55 torx bit for the gearbox filler if it's an R380 - 300Tdi cheers Steveb

..if you end up in Suffolk or nearby I have a breaker 200Tdi disco in the yard for all the dash bits etc Nigel . I'd suggest getting in touch with Swansea to see what's involved but I can't imagine it will be too hard to sort out cheers Steveb

The 6 bolt PCD is the same , not sure if the centre hole will be right for the 80" half shaft/brg hsg . If you are fitting the whole hub and halfshaft from a II/IIA you will need a spacer either between the stub axle and the axle case or (preferred) between the drive member and the hub. Iirc its about 16mm thick cheers Steveb

It's good practice to replace both the master and slave cylinder when working on clutch hydraulics . Doing this will cover all the cheap fixes , if the dragging clutch is still there after doing this then I'm afraid you will need to consider clutch (and possibly DMF) failure . It's not a guaranteed thing that the DMF will have failed but it's worth being aware .. welcome to the forum as well cheers Steveb

That's pretty subtle all built up . Which V8 is that ? The rear antiroll-bar set up with it over the top of the axle is unusual . I came across a similar set up on a hybrid last year that actually bound up when one wheel was up but the vertical links look longer on your pics cheers Steveb