steve b

...not so heavy it won't fly .... I saw it in Steve's hands at Tixover on a challenge timed section get about 10' of air under it at the top of a hillclimb that not many others got up by driving only ......sort of reminded me of Icelandic formula stuff A nice truck for sure cheers Steveb

On the bulkhead near the clutch master cyl. you should find a few black wires connected to earth . Running a good size black wire from here to the battery -ve will sort it out cheers Steveb

Is that MIG'd Aluminium Soren ? Your baffle layout is like mine in the main tank where the pickup is , basically a open box with some small notchs in the base edge . I also have larger baffles to stop surge with a larger gap at the bottom cheers Steveb

Yes that will be fine , it's just a drilling into an oil gallery , just make sure the blanking fitting doesn't protrude into the oilway cheers Steveb

Yep , definitely tubed type Jon , the tubeless bead seat is quite visible on tubeless type . Tubes should be fine in your tubeless tyres , just make sure all the stickers and glue residue is removed on the inside cheers Steveb

Not something I've seen with the ones I look after , both 200 and 300 Tdi's . I'll keep an eye out for it . cheers Steveb

Looks like you have escaped with virtually no damage . Are you sure he never hit the OS rear wheel ? If in doubt check by putting something long and straight across the tyre parallel to the ground . My assessment ? LandRover 1 Fiat 0 And maybe it's time to fix the leaking fuel cap ? cheers Steveb

Good link Mikey Steveb

Does it pull away in first and go thru second and into third ? Or is it in third at pull away? the second suggests limp mode - boost pressure sensor not signalling , the first may point to lack of boost ? I take it 3250 rpm in third is less than 55mph? can't recall just now cheers Steveb

Nice work VB :i-m_so_happy:always nice to see a bit of lathe work , and yeah steel or ci for sure I reckon that will drive the alt. pretty well cheers Steveb

is it still changing up thru all 4 gears in auto ? Or is it in third all the time ? cheers Steveb

No worries , always good to hear of a successful fix , enjoy the brighter lights cheers Steveb

it sounds like the body to chassis earth isn't working properly either , I'd clean the bulkhead earth pack and run a decent size (10mm sq) earth from there direct to the battery . cheers Steveb

sounds like a bad earth , the main battery earth is bolted to the back of the transfer box under the seatbox . there should also be an earth strap from the engine to the chassis and also a bunch of black wires to the bulkhead near the clutch pedal box . A new main earth cable would be a good start , they don't last forever welcome to the forum too , you are in the right place for tech knowledge cheers Steveb

My 200 has about a 2 sec delay on the light from cold but after that is instant . It's been like this for most of the 10years I've had it and has 45-50psi oil pressure at 2500rpm when hot and about 15psi at tickover , adding the mileage from it's previous life it totals 220k. Having the gauge is a must for me , it allows you to establish whats normal cheers Steveb

Do you have any end float in the injector pump shaft ? This is a common cause of shredded belts. The belts are not that sensitive to overtensioning, is there evidence of the belt touching the outer cover? cheers Steveb

Yeah I've never had any problem refitting a TC after accidental removal . It is much better to keep it all together though , as said earlier once out bolt a tag to a bellhousing bolt hole to hold the TC in while its off the engine cheers Steveb

yes , just be sure not to introduce air leaks at the connections to the fuel pipe which is something I've come across before , and had symptoms not that different to yours. If it is water in the combustion chamber you should see it if you pull the injectors , the one that is clean and shiny will be the faulty chamber . cheers Steveb

We use old mill tables , flat , tee slots and cast iron so steel weld spatter doesn't stick . The big one is 5m x1.5m and the benches are all around 1.3m x 0.6m . If anyone wants specific table plates , say with a few slots and holes cut with true 90deg corners on the table pm me , we cut up to 30 mm plate on an Esprit HD plasma cnc all the time so can always fit in one offs cheers Steveb

Interesting thread , I know Petergg had a separate 36v system overvolting a twin motor 24v Warn winch which worked very well. The alternator was off a coach and iirc over a 100a , so lots of watts . Converting a 12v alt to 24v may not double the power as the winding x-section and number of turns will give a finite number of watts ? ....it has been several decades since college so I'm interested to hear what others know. cheers Steveb

it does sound like the water system is a bit sludged up , I'd just keep flushing it through every couple of weeks . There is a block drain as well under the manifolds , removing that and pushing the garden hose up against the hole will help to loosen any crud around the bottom of the bore casting cheers Steveb

You could get the existing alt pulley split in half on a lathe and put a spacer in the middle to get the right vee width or just machine up a new one the right width and diameter ? cheers Steveb

What about fitting a car alternator with the vac. pump on the back ? I know it needs oil feed and drain , but not the hardest thing to sort out cheers Steveb

The turbo will have lateral shaft movement stationary - the oil pressure when running fills the clearance between the shaft and the white metal bearing , that and heat expansion . If the vanes are not in contact with the housing then all should be good . A sheared clutch centre is not uncommon but an easy fix cheers Steveb

Wasn't there an LSD made by Torsen a couple of decades ago ? iirc based on worm gears that would rotate under minimal speed differential and locked when the speed differential increases cheers Steveb