axlechorus

Yeah a little birdie told me about this on the Dailymail website. The Eagle eyed amongst you will also notice that apparently 3 greenkeepers spotted it at once on a Par 3, Strange things in Devon......

Couldn't you have just got some waffle boards out to either get the front wheels up the step or the rears out the holes? We have founds our to be the best bit of kit that we have ever brought and that 4 waffles can get you nearly anywhere on a british lane or drive in this case

As a thourght you could look to possibly get a detachable drop plate on for example a rear tank guard. I don't know if this may be suitable for you with what you use your motor for or a cost you want to take but it's just an option. Cheers Ryck

I agree with the use of an Eezibleed kit for both clutch and brakes. We have had one for over 10 year and wouldn't be without it really. Today for example having made and replaced the whole rear brake pipes set we used the setup and within 10 minutes of going around each corner twice the peddle it lovely and firm. Just make sure u check the level of fluid in your resouvoir at the top as if this becomes dry you will just start pumping air into the system from the tyre that you use. Cheers Ryck

Personnally I would try to avoid having a split range of tyres for both the centre diff and also for spares purposes as you would ideally need a spare for both the front and the rear. If you upgrade to 245/70 and get a greater load then I would consider it, I know that Kumho do the KL71 in that size which I know someone who had them on a D2 and spoke very highly off them however they where a much softer compound with quiet soft side walls compared to the BF AT. Alternatively you could consider a change to 235/85 R16 rubber if that has a higher loading either in MT or AT? Cheers Ryck

In Theory I wouldn't see why u would not be able to fit a 300tdi dash into the 200tdi as I doubt landrover would have gone to the trouble of changing to many brackets/mounts behind the dash. However I reckon it would still be a lot of work with all the ancilaries i.e vents for normal air and also wiring coming in from different locations/sizes and also around the centre console area/gearbox tunnel as they are different boxes. Personnally I would look to swap your 300tdi aircon setup for that from a 200tdi, It may require you to add some funds as less 200tdi's had AC but I doubt it would cost more than the time and money to source and install a 300tdi dash. Hope this helps. Ryck

Viewranger is a superb bit of kit for syban phones. I have it as a free sponsor from an event that I organised for Exeter uni where we did a non stop relay around Cornwall. It was very good and worked faultlessly on three phones for the 30 hours non stop which is not something I would trust a windows enable phone and MM to do. Cheers Ryck

FYI just phoned Footman James after a qoute for my discovery and they will not insure anything over insurance group 10 with someone under the age of 25 so thats Discovery's out but Defenders at group 9 are ok. Cheers Ryck

I have a set of the Devon4x4 Galvanised Tree Sliders on my D1, not a D2 but will look similar if you want me to take a pick at post them up I can do that tomorrow? Cheers

I have got assorted spares for my 8" wipacs from M&M just up the road http://www.mm-4x4.com/ might be worth dropping them a line. Cheers

I had a similar issue needing to replace all my brake nipples after the previous owner had gone at them with the mole grips. I just went to my local land rover parts specialist and brought some bremach ones in bags of 6 or 8 for about £4, they seem to be doing the job well after a year. Cheers Ryck

I would also take a look at the Bias springs and principally the Bias plate that is in there. These are notorious for breaking off/bending leading to problems selecting gears. I have removed mine after such issues of loosing 3rd and 4th whilst off road and now have no issues though the box does fit in first and second. To access remove the centre console, rubbers over the gearbox and then look inside the main gearbox section. Cheers

Yeah that wouldn't suprise me with different competitions technical regs. If I am in that position I suppose I would just have to go merry with the tie wraps and jublie clips to keep it all stationary.

I have a set of Old Man Emu on mine that have got to be over 5 years old. Still working a treat and I cannot fault then for composure on the road and also articulation off road. If you can afford it and plan to keep the car for that long then they are a top bet. Cheers

@Bowie69 - Good in which case I will go with those. Indeed they are a pretty good price as a package. However the rear shocks are only about 500miles old as I had to renew them just over a month as the old pro comps where rather shot and being a student now rather than on my Year In Industry I need to mind the purse strings However I may well go for those in time as I renew/get some pennies. That rear setup and a Detroit locker would be rather effective I think. Cheers for all your help.

@Spendry - Yes the spring will max out while the shock still has more to give. I'm pretty sure I will need to increase the length of the brake hose in the middle, What are you experiances guys? Bowie69/andy2986 - this is what I was thinking as the Gwyn ones have the hook to stop total dislocation whilst the QT ones on the bottom are in what I hear is the better position. In thinking for my the Gwyn ones would allow the additional 2 inches in their design before the hook so unless I am going onto +6 shocks which with a 2 inch lift will compromise up travel significantly that the Gwyn ones are most appropriate?

@ nick w thats interesting to know and something I would never have thourght about. Do you know anymore on which ones and any reasons? I'm 99% sure that our club doesnt have any policies on them as a fair few cars run with them including committee members

Hi I am looking at getting a pair of either dislocation or relocation cones for the back of my Discovery 1 200tdi. It is running +2inch OME springs with +4inch prop comp rear shocks so I need come cones as I managed to pop a spring out on a recent laning trip when traversing a cross axle up hill. I have had a look about and have narrowed my choice down to either of these. Gwyn Lewis spring relocators that work from the top - http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/page68.html or the QT services relocation cone things. - http://www.qtservices.co.uk/parts/range-rover-classic/reverse-dislocation-cones-a204_reverse-dislocation-cones-a204.html They are pretty much the same price so that doesnt matter. What I am interested in is how they work on the road as I do a fair few motorway miles in it and also how successful/reliable they are in locating the spring back after a twist as I have heard that some of the more basic dislocation cones aren't that reliable and also manage to make a sound like a shotgun when doing so. Any input or if anyone uses something else that may be better please let me know. Cheers Ryck

As a current Exeter Cornwall Geography Student I think there is no better car actually for a student in terms of what it can do and what it is. Mine a 200tdi that I got for £560 in my year in industry has been used for countless trips out and about and with 7 seats diesel money is amplified as well . Plus being one the only 1 in my group with a Land Rover is becomes almost an extension of your personality which is quite cool. A few pointers from my experiance though. - Carry a few key spares with you and tools, - Track down a good specialist for small things that may go wrong i.e. I had a prop UJ fail completely so I had to get it done down there. - Co-incide your repairs work for your trips home, - Keep running it even if you don't need to. I make sure that I take mine for a jaunt at least once a week even if i don't have to in order to keep it all ticking over. - Learn to self diagnose. Last week mine was running hot and also loosing power steering and the electical fault light on the dash was coming on when doing tight turns in town. Did a check over and found that the top hose for the cooling system had a small split causing it to spray collant onto the belts. Simple £4 new part and half an hours work probably saved me the best part of £100 at the dealers. - Less is more, Mine is a very late 200tdi on an L plate and isnt a particuarly high spec machine but its solid and with less on it there is less to go wrong. Best of Luck Ryck

Cheers Gordon. I had a look at it all this afternoon whilst moving my wrap around diff guard to the back diff. I notice the bolts that it uses. I suppose I can just use the existing bolts (condition dependant) that hold the bracket for the steering damper and the diff bolts. Cheers Ryck

Howz about some defender front fog lamps? I have seen these in a shadow bumper before but they where a frankly silly price as you had to buy the bumper as well. Im pretty sure it could be an interesting project to develop and something with a strong potential to market to all landrover users as lets face it our high mounted normal lights are pretty **** when it comes to foggy winter days. Cheers Ryck

The reason for the difference in fit is that a 200tdi doesnt have the larger plastic air filter box that the 300tdi does, instead it has a more simple defender style one which has a different size of inlet. One way you can test that your snorkle is nicely sealed before you take the plunge is to get a heavy duty plastic bag over the snorkle top and suffocate the engine. If you can do this then it cannot be pulling air in from elsewhere, It it carries on running fine then you know that air must be leaking in from somewhere else and its time to get listening and siliconing Cheers Ryck

Hi All Just preparing to fit a QT diff guard that I got from a forum member (Cheers Bishbosh) when I was last down south. It didnt come with any bolts so does anyone know the sizes for the wrap around style QT guards so I can go to the local foundary and get them before I start arguing with it Cheers Ryck

Each time we have filed up out 200tdi (mine) and 300tdi (dads) we have used the best part of 2 4 litre bottles of engine oil and end up with a little left over at the end for the inevitable top ups as it works its way around the system and also the Land Rover leaks Hope this helps. Ryck

I would start with some simple checks of the power steering fluid and also that the power steering pump belt isnt slack. From then I would look for stiff joints and also at the pump/box itself but these are the more expensive items.