axlechorus

Its is very satisfying! fitting that it weighs the same as a bunker and it is one there

I know a couple of people who have run the KL71s and they have performed very well with lots of grip on all surfaces and suprisinly little road noise for what is a pretty open style of tyre. However there are two bigger issues which have arisen. 1 - They are directional so unless you carry two spares you are really "guessing" which you may have to replace. 2 - They are a pretty soft compound so do wear fast and the sidewalls are very soft to cuts and gashes which they suffered with when we where in Wales. Nothing to damage the tyre but you could tell they weren't as resilient as BFG MTs I have also just inherited dads 235/85 R16 BFG KM muds from him which after about 18,000 road and off road miles on the defender have only dropped from 14mm to 12mm of tread in the centre blocks. These have now been replaced with 265/75 KMs which have so far performed faultlessly and with even less road noise. Personnally I would go with BFG as they are worth the money in the long run if you can raise it at the start. Finally for arches and clearance remember the offset of the rim as this is important in the arch the tyre takes and if it clips the arches or not. I have gone back to standard alloys at +25mm offset rather than modulars (+40mm) offset in order to avoid just this on my discovery. All the best and Hope this helps. Ryck

Also wouldn't these factors also affect how much further forward any change would put your gearstick. 1 - The bellhousing you planning to use as shown here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=7397 there are multiple options. 2 - If I remember correctly the tdi and v8 main shafts in the LT77 are different lengths (Hence different Bell Housings) on a Discovery's. As thus without clarrifying the above terms no measurement could be accurate as truth is not known.

Yeah ebay appears to be full of LED's so I will take a look through for ones that suit my needs once I have the bumper and other parts all fitted. I will also look at the freelander bulb holders to go on there. Many thanks for your help and I will hopefully be able to post up How to guide of some form when I do all the wiring. All the best Ryck

Chris, I think I will go for getting bulbs which can do side and brake lights as well as indicators and if LED's aren't that much than normal units I will go with those. Any ideas on supplier? My machine has recently started to use the trailer telltail on the dash as opposed to it only flashing once and the indicator light being out all the time. I think I might sort that all out at the same time. Many thanks. Ryck

Dear All I have just managed to acquire a HD bumper to replace the rather battered item currently on my 200tdi. It’s got the 300tdi bumper lights which I want to make use of to assist the 200tdi's rather terrible stock rear lighting. My question is once I have brought the light units to go in the bumper how do I go about wiring in these into the car's systems. It is all setup for towing with the relay in the rear right corner so could I pick up off this for the power and the braking/indicators/rear lights? All the best Ryck

Unfortunately this is often the case, those routes that are open to mechanically propelled vehicles actually gain a smaller percentage of budgeted work than there network percentage which is saying something.

Personnally I would go for another Southdown one if I was to change from my D1 to a D2. I think the stainless pipe looks very smart and the overall setup is very snugg and extremely strong when it comes to pushing branches and stuff out of the way on lanes! It also seems to age well, mines been on there 2 years and looks as good as when I got it. HTHs Ryck

Cracking Bumper, Looks like a proper factory job tbh

Done and circulated to other people I Know who may wish to sign yet are not on this forum or GLASS etc.

I think there could certainly be a good bit of money in it as most people I know have filthy patios that are often rather slippery when its wet so you could well advertise a safety factor in there justly. Only thing I would question is how you are planning to clean it? Pressure washers are very water intensive and unless u are asking your client to use there supply you could well find yourself needing a large bowser or needing lots of "refills" Cheers Ryck

Agreed! I think it looks very smart and a lot better than any tubular bumper ever could on a Disco IMO

I would guess that there was some form of HD spring on the rear but a standard length in order to take the higher weights that would be carried/towed as a commercial on a regular basis. I am sure that someone will be along soon enough with a part number though. Cheers

Try taking the high/low selector off the top of the transfer box and seeing if the grub screw is loose in there or not as I had a similar loss of low range which was caused by the grub screw becoming loose.

There was something I remember seeing in an LRO mag about a year ago on conversions for all landrovers and putting a td5 into a D1 base had been done. Apparently it worked well with the TD5 being more powerful than a TDI and the D1 body being a few hundred kg lighter than that of the D2. Cheers

It could well be play in the rear diff and that would be felt mostly at low speeds, You would need to get the rear wheels of the floor and probably get a mate to help check it out more. I had a similar clunk in the rear of my 200tdi over the past month or so and have discovered that the 4 bolts holding the rear prop to the handbrake drum where a bit loose allowing for a clunk. Tightened these up and that appears to have done the job. Cheers Ryck

I would second the use of a Valeo complete kit and if possible a HD one like I have. Also remember to re-do everything else in there including the clutch fork as once its done you don't want to be back in there for a long time. If you are attempting it yourself then a good socket set is certainly something you will need and a full bank of the colourful words we associate with seized and stiff land rover bolts

Likewise, I even remove my southdown top having got through 2 of them in the last couple of years due to really narrow trees. My advice would be to remove the snorkle top if you feel its getting tight as I have seen a safari one taken out and it wasn't pretty and will mangle the top and its fit with the main section. Looking good though. Did you go and do a few of the lanes local to Brum? Cheers

That looks very neat and should certainly be solid for a good few years to come! Which supplier are you using to get these parts from? For the brake pipes I would go down the road of getting a tool to swage the ends (About £40 from a motor factors) and the male and female connectors to start making your own. Should pay for itself after a few pipes and will allow you to do any future pipse just by buying the copper tubing that is cheap as. HTH Cheers Ryck

Bill Off the top of my head I would not know. However I would be very suprised if there wasn't something avaliable on the market. I would compare your mounts to the standard 5 door verion to see if they are any differences for starters. For it fitting neatly to the bodywork. If your fuel lockers open like normal doors then there shouldn't be an issue. Again a 110 version like the 90 will most likely just replace the sill section below the doors. HTHs Ryck

Gary Many thanks I have dropped Paul a PM and he has kindly agreed to give me some time on the phone during the week to talk about the route. Does anyone have any images of the route at various times that I could use for background research? Cheers Ryck

I would be very suprised if they are not the same knowing Land Rovers liking to carry parts over from model to model. There are a couple of kits avaliable now that include the parts needed to convert from a 3 bolt to a 4 bolt system. Off the top of my head they were about £20 to £30 depending on the supplier but may well have changed since I last looked.

The sizes on Dads motor are Upper Previous Picture - 235/70 R16 BFG AT Lower Current Picture - 235/85 R16 BGF MT We hope to fit the 235/85 R16 new KM2's as soon as we can source some which should be the same profile as the KM. Neither is run on spacers just on the standard deep dish alloy wheel that has from memory 25mm of offset. Turning cycle is still very good and no issues on the standard suspension. Cheers Ryck

The Chequer plate does mount on the sill section unless you custom make a chequer plate sill section to use the mounts that the sill normally uses. Side steps sit below the Sill section on two brackets at either end (most of the time) and tbh don't last very long off road Tree/Rock Sliders invariably replace the sill section and also utilize the built in high lift point in front of the rear wheel to maximise the strength of the slider. As shown below with Dads 90. - Early on with chequer plated sill section in place and side steps. - Now with Tree sliders in place replacing the sill section and the removal of the side steps. Also note that Tree sliders can also be referred to as nerf bars by some. HTHs Ryck

Dad replaced the front seat foams for his 90 and I believe they turned up in the infamous Blue packaging. So far so good and as you say it doesn't seal or move so the opportunities for issues are limited. If they are for occasional use by your passengers then I would get them as their use will be limited and not by yourself Cheers Ryck