crwoody

I'm watching this thread with interest, I quite fancy the ATB's all round, apart from anything else, I suspect the reduction in backlash compared to a standard diff would be a nice improvement.

Agreed, the relay would be easiest, you could connect the coil between the white/green wire on the wash switch and the black/green wire on the rear wipe switch, then link the white/green to one side of the relay contact and the other side to the black/light green wire on the wash switch.

I guess you've got two choices here, either disconnect the rear pump motor from it's existing wires and re-wire it in parallel with the coil of the rear wipe relay, or add an extra relay with it's coil wired to the existing wiper relay and use it's normally-open contact to replicate the existing washer switch. The washer fluid delay is just the time taken to refill the pipe, I believe there's a non-return valve in there somewhere to stop it leaking back but I suspect they get gummed up after a while.

I had something very similar on one of my previous Defenders, IIRC the outer edge is fitted to the tub with two "P" clips which are clipped over the long vertical bar and screwed to the outer edge of the tub, this the allows the guard to hinge out, the inner edge of the guard is then attached using the fixed brackets. It just means you only have to remove one (or two) screws to get to the lights instead of all of them. I'm not a big fan of the light guards myself, I found the ones on the front caused more damage to the wings that the minor "altercation" with the tree would have done and the lights are cheap enough anyway. Each to their own though

The heated seat supply fuses are on the supply side before the switches, link 3 - 60A under the seatbox before the ignition relay and then a second one, fuse 33 - 20A after the relay which feeds both switches, from this point the feed and earth return are common to both seats. This is assuming it's the original wiring and not an after-market add-on. If it's anything like mine, both had failed due to the heater elements being "scrunched-up" and broken under the fabric outer cover, presumably as a result of "wriggly arse syndrome", trouble is, the base and back sections are wired in series so if one fails they both stop working.

My 56 plate Disco 3 is averaging 25.5mpg based on actual tank to tank figures over the last 18 months or so, the rather optomistic on-board computer is showing 28. This is based on a mix of motorway long runs and pottering about around town, if I could bring myself to stick to 60 or so on the motorways I could probably manage 30mpg.

There's always another way! When replacing the standard Defender ball joint, drill and tap a hole in the round steel ball-joint backplate and fit a grease nipple, that way you can ensure it's always lubricated properly and much less likely to wear out. It worked for me anyway.

It won't be the indicator switch and isn't very likely to be the ECU, sounds to me like you have a loose earth connection somewhere. I'd start with the one underneath the ECU in the bottom of the seatbox.

When I found I had a fair bit of play in my Panhard rod bush, I found it was just the bolt that had come loose and worn oval. A new bolt properly tightened fixed it permanently.

Quite normal, the heat from the exhaust tends to rise into the void of the seatbox and then has nowhere to go.

I'd go for whipping the belt off first and checking the idlers and tension pulley bearings, I had all of them fail on mine over time.

Could also be the alternator brushes/carrier pack. I had a similar effect with mine a while ago, when I stripped the alternator afterwards, I found the brush carriers were so full of crud it stopped the brushes sliding properly resulting in insufficient contact with the commutator and little or no charge to the battery.

I think you'll find it's necessary to lift the body off to get access to it, particularly the turbo and exhaust areas, I'm led to believe it's not that hard a job though.

Same as Western, about into the orange section - but the gauge on mine (2001 Td5) always seemed very non-linear, I'd get maybe 150 miles from the 1st quarter tank (from full) but the last ¼ might only get me 50 miles. So like yourself, I never really had much confidence in it, to the point where I used to carry a 2 gallon can full - just in case.

They're not actually plugs but "headers" where a number of wires connected to the same circuit connect together.

Depends what year yer Td5 is, 2002 onwards you need the first one to remove the butterfly valve as well as blanking, earlier ones don't have the butterfly valve so the simple blanking plate will do.

Have you tried NFU? they are usually pretty relaxed about mods and have never charged me any admin fees for changes. Depends where you live though, they can be fussy about what home areas they will cover for. Still worth enquiring.

Sounds like the cable was not fully seated at one end or the other, try re-fitting it and make sure the ends are properly located and screwed up tight.

Yes you're right, as Fridge says there's no need to upgrade existing wiring if you're not taking any more power from it, the relay coil only takes a fraction of an amp, nothing to worry about.

The last time I did this, I wired them through a relay from a decent capacity fused live feed, then just took a feed from the main beam circuit to drive the relay coil, also took the lamps earth return direct to chassis too, this way, it keeps them independent of the original light wiring and with no need for an extra switch.

Just so long as you don't call it a JEEP

I got two tubes of the JCB blue from the same supplier last year, so they do sell it individually, worth getting in touch with them if you have no joy otherwise.

Depends how quick you are with the swap. Not much in any case as it's fairly high up in the system - so long as you do it while it's cold.

For me, I'd start by checking the prop shaft UJ's. You need to get the car on level ground, chock the wheels securely then take the handbrake off and gears in neutral, then get underneath and shake the prop shafts up/down & side to side at each end to see if there's any play in the joints. If there is, you want to get it sorted sooner rather than later, otherwise you could end up with knackered axle pinion or transfer box bearings and leaking seals.

Sounds to me like the turbo boost had been adjusted too far, the pressure is monitored by the ECU and if it goes over the limit (1 bar?) the ECU goes into "limp" mode until it's shut down and re-started.