discomikey

cheers CW. i cut my own steel usinf CAD templates (Cardboard Aided Design of course) the winch tray is seperate to the bumper in my case too

Have you seen my winch install I know its a series but I kinda went for what.you are getting at but without the need to city.slam panel. It.fits really snugly and I just need to finish it off by adding the valence cover back on with a drum window. I set my fairlead back flush with the front of the bumper too

almost worth a punt at 99p! shame I don't have the time. this one is actually pretty much the only one so far on this thread I would actually consider. yes its a mash up, but like you say mad_pete, reliability with a body that never rots, it could be completed to a high standard and to look almost completely like a standard series if enough though put into it. the only downside is the flak you would get for driving a mudblood!

the R380 with this problem was used in a daily driven discovery which all of a sudden started with seemingly no obvious cause, the driver wasn't ever exactly heavy footed either!

now back on the road properly for a while, i feel i can now provide an accurate review of the differentials on road manners. off road, i have only experience of 15 mins playing in rear wheel drive only. the big question, Is it worth it? simply, YES did it meet my criteria? yes more so than i would imagine. must be stronger than the cheese built rover 2 pin diff!!! - errr yes Must be fairly cheap all things considered - yes must be plug and play, no special procedures or oils - yes must be invisible or close to on road - yes must be kind on halfshafts - surprisingly yes. and finally, but not importantly - must improve off road performance, after all it is an LSD... - yes as far as i can tell so far. On road. it is completely invisible as far as i can tell. only exception being that if you are trying to get the back end out, it is easier than with an open diff. (remember RWD only) BUT. having an 88" as anyone that may be stupid enough to put into a wall, being so short, can spin out and straight into a wall before you blink. HOWEVER with this LSD, it is a far more gradual, controllable situation. i found a clear piece of curvy wide road in the wet one morning around 5AM and 2/3 way round the bend gave it a hoof full in third. just to understand the characteristics of what it would do. i was very pleasantly surprised. i managed to control it for long enough for brain to go from "can i catch it" to using the throttle to control it nicely. where as before it was, inside tyre spin........SNAP ... oh im backwards all of a sudden... having also found an empty windy moorland road with extra run off room, i had a go at hard dry cornering. exactly the same as before. no difference whatsoever. completely invisible. in just damp conditions it is fine, tight cornering on gravel, whilst towing another land rover, it doesent scrub like i would expect. you can just tell the tyre starting to scramble if you really watch it, and i mean JUST. towing, again not an issue, the last load i had on was a 3T digger, which we had to load it up across the road, facing downhill otherwise the digger couldnt climb the trailer ramps. when coming to reverse out of the loading position, i anticipated there to be an issue, but with 3.5T behind be and the trailer brakes deactivated, and what is fair to say a LOT of noseweight (adjusted for traction for reversing out the situation) i was wheelspinning, both wheels equally. no 4 wheel drive so i had to rock it out, when it wouldnt rock, i got a bit aggressive (on purpose to test the shafts) i expected it to snap a halfshaft, being so much weight was behind it and i was snatching in low box reverse. all fine. REALLY impressed. the shafts that are in it, are...... wait for it.... Britpart standard shafts, (only set of shafts available when i needed them that day!) off road. its fair to say from what i have experienced, i am more than impressed. i attempted a couple of hill climbs which i thought i had no chance of, only short, but very steep hillclimbs. i tried crawling, and a more enthusiastic approach to all of them. It would be stupid to expect the diff to bend the laws of physics and make the thing as capable as if it was in 4wd. but quite honestly. it wasnt that far off. i cant wait to test it in 4wd, just need to get a couple of front shafts made up first. best of all, it was a direct fit plug and play unit, no drilling, tapping, piping up like a locker. but i am so impressed with its ability to do its job. on some surfaces, i have expected it to not "have enough grip to work" but it does, it might aswell have been completely locked IMO.... i wait with keen interest to the first bit of ice and snow i come across i will be posting on this thread then aswell. great product lads. (no affiliation with Ashcroft, but i really do like it that much )

i have an R380 that has the same problem. not got round to opening it up yet in order to investigate

i had a set of 235/70 (bambini) insa sahara tyres which measured at 265, i always assumed it was a moulding error or something. maybe not

dats a wiccle too far past the newport pagnell services for me wot you doing all the way down there anyway? mines a series anyway but sporting defender inner wings

where in the beautiful uk is haselmere? can i ask what for or is it a secret new product? P.S, still not got round to putting the washer mod on yet its still sat in the workshop along with a nice high power pump for added squirty!

1.37....

dont get me wrong, i dont mind the idea of having tested trailers. i think its quite sensible. although. lets say they do go ahead (of which i am sceptical for now as theres been talk of it for years) we have a total of 5 trailers (3.5T overrun trailers anyway) and if each test costs £20 thats £100 a year for the privelige. i am most probably right in assuming the DVLA wont be paying for them for us either

cheers, that will be on the cards next, first off i need to find a suitable stepper motor to use as a pump control for a different scheme!

EJ, any chance of measuring some temperatures on behalf of the forum before and after the I/C fitting. it would be great to have measurements of the same engine in the same "tune state" just with/without an I/C.

how much did the scan cost, very interesting stuff!

try winding any diesel up past 4000RPM and see what happens? much more than that and youll be replacing rockers left right and center haha! diesels like to work rather than rev. never had any issued with our TDV6 D4, or the previous. they certainly dont lack in torque or a kick in the back thats for sure!

we need to start with the skin i think. overall dimensions. shape and corner radii and thickness. once that is determined. the frame then. each piece of the frame that is welded together to create the full frame should be measured. these pics above along with screenshots should help us to understand each other when the measurements get more complicated.

deleted... i really should read things more carefully! haha have you checked the flanges for flatness? with the weld around the perimiter of the pipe (pipe to flange face) this will naturally "peel" the flange away from the head face at the sides. (welds contract the steel) i would try getting it milled so that you know it is perfecly flat when cold. i would also try to get a slip joint im sure someone makes them for custom fabrications

if you take many many measurements i can model up a catflap and all its sub components on CAD then put the drawings and STEP files on here for anyone in case it becomes cheaper to get one made up rather than actually buy an original

i had the bonnet up on dads D4 the other week (no it hadnt broken down lol) and decided that the TDV6 would sit quite well space wise inside a series engine bay. the engine is shorter than a TDI! F* quick in a nearly 3T discovery so must be incredible in a RWD 1.3T series 3...... mind you it goes sideways enough already!

Diesel electric. i STILL dont see why a manufacturer hasnt put a single cylinder put put diesel onto a generator running a motor yet for the consumer market!

I partially agree and partially disagree with this. yes, more flow is the ideal, but thats only if you cant get enough air into the cylinders at any one time at a higher boost. the more pressure going in (assuming the value of oxygen in the atmosphere is X) means the more oxgyen going in. think of it as rather than PSI as XSI (oxgygen per square inch) at 13XSI you will have less oxgyen than at say 20XSI (ignoring the effects of superheating and therefore expanding the air) so as long as your turbo is big enough to fill the cylinders (of which im sure someone clever has an equasion for)(in fact thinking about it qould be quite simple using displacement and RPM you can work out required CFM) then more pressure will give a benefit AS LONG AS you can cool it back down to a sensible temperature. which is where bigger More efficient intercoolers are required! the bigger the intercooler the more lag and pressure drop. which is a conversation for anoter day!

isnt that what you take out the little nylon "restrictor" ring for. the diaphragm gets more travel then. at least i can say at 20PSI + boost, you can get it to smoke!! bottom end wise? i have personally been running a max boost pressure of around 22-24PSI (gauge stops at 20 needle keeps going) and not had an issue with the bottom end, in fact i pulled the pistons just the other week to check the shells due to another isolated issue which turned out to be a stuck exhaust valve and bent pushrod (20-25k miles after rebuild) and they were perfect. i never really get up to max psi for more than about a second at most. i usually peak it and settle it down to about 18. i dont run an EGT gauge or an engine oil cooler (which i probably should i know i know) but the pistons have no signs of burning or overheating and the bottom end seems to be coping perfectly fine. (on a 200TDi) to quantify this ideally we need to find someone who uses their engine at full load and full boost for extended periods of time. (if only there were a TDi in a tractor puller) backing the boost off does dramatically reduce the "kick" you get in your back but at the same time i find myself never daring to use max boost at full load. so maybe if you were to quantify a lower boost value as being safe for extended periods on full load, you would be able to use it more. in effect most probably making it more powerful and torquey than my "too high" boost so cant ever achieve full potential. being my everyday driver, and fairly freshly rebuilt, i am reluctant to find the limit! hence the need for a TDi powered tractor puller. ideally pulled apart and checked over before and after a days worth of pulling(or after failiure)!

you mean like project iceberg? if it ever became successfull it would have been my dream engine i think!

Here is the one i made for mine, alas it is not weatherproof, but i made it a long time ago. and if i were to do it again i have a fair few ideas on how to make it weatherproof. its secure though, and comes off by undoing 2 hook bolts once it is open. cannot be removed without opening so if locked it is still secure! if you do make one, make sure to measure your land rovers bed, mine wasnt square if i had assumed it was it would never have fitted in a million years!!!

hmmmmm...... those plugs are exactly the same type our works dataloggers take! shame i cant borrow a datalogger as they can easily log 2-3 hrs of driving with about 25 inputs each!