discomikey

the VIN doesent neccesairly tell you what options the vehicle will have, it will have a linked build code, or "star number" as we call them at terex, this is a very long number indeed, and indicates all options and vehicle colour etc that was fitted to the vehicle on the line. this is something that is internal and although most probably available will take a fair bit of digging

tell me about it.....

we drove a little more "conservatively" haha, our head ORVD lecturer was on about getting a bunch of us "club execs" put on a LANTRA course to become qualified drivers and ultimately instructors, as usual though this never happened. im always keen to improve in anything i do (P.S. im not the driver of the purple thing rather the driver of the blue 88 pickup most likely plenty of mistakes made, my driving has stemmed from my acricultural upbringing but i do seem to be able to use my driving style to my advantage for the most part. but then getting stuck is the most fun part )

HoSS, it has been on the road, done a fair few miles,motorway, country road, city and heavy towing. its had an engineers report sign off and is notified with the insurance. the reason its off the road at the minute is because i broke the back diff and needed to get back to work at coventry the next day, so swapped my insurance over to mums laccetti now cant afford to insure both and also brian wants a bit of TLC ideally performance and reliability wise, its top notch, being basically a standard coiler brake setup, its tried and tested too

i was on 29's then okay... haha

So Liberating.....

not really no, there is a university club, and we run events from "drive what you bring" pay and plays to punch hunts and everything between. in our course (Off Road Vehicle Design) we did get taught the basics in a 1 hour lesson except we were all way above that level so the tutor just let us play!

*P.S. have you peeled the slave rubber dust covers back to see if the cylinders are wet behind them?

sounds like good progress EJ, personally i have always bled furthest nipple away to closest, i.e. back passengers side, back drivers side, front passengers, front drivers, would do the master first like you said though. im not sure if this actually has an effect on how well your system gets bled but i have been told doing it other ways may result in you "chasing" the air around the system rather than pulling it out, or rather it chasing you if that makes sense? like i say, i havent physically experimented with this but its how i have been taught to do a "full bleed" and it seems to work no problems every time. cheers

Alas, poor old brian is still sat there in the shed gathering (corn) dust (by the half ton) its going to be a pig to wash off if i ever manage to get him out to play/back on the road haha. did go back home this weekend but with the missus (valentines day) a very very stubborn nut on a fiesta rear shock (no spare bolts so not cutting ) and a break in to our garage where the quad and strimmer was, i didnt really get chance to even so much as look at any of my green oval prizes. i 24 splined the inner sides of the rear shafts ('80 onwards standard shafts flipped) on the rear for my LSD, havent got any shafts up front yet but for now its going to be standard CV's (3 piece as although its the weakest type its what i have) and some either shortened or fresh shafts to join diff to CV. i did however go through my full workshop and picture and log everything i have that is worth anything just incase mr (unsuccessful so far) burgular decides to return i can prove to the insurance what i actually have.

i would personally challenge that, because they didnt come as standard from the factory all round IIRC???? obviously do some research before to make sure im not telling you codswallop. but if so, why does an MOT require something that isnt supplied as standard on that model? it surely cant in my eyes.

exactly why i did my disk covnersion the way i did, series just look wrong IMO with spats on. although IIRC using coiler axles and proper land rover wheels, you shouldnt need the spats as the narrow offset on the steels brings the track back in. dont ask me which steels that would need as there are so many different subtle offset variants. (ask me how i know...)

IIRC the coiler steering arms (if you mean the arms cast into the swivel housings) are shorter than a series integrated bottom pin steering arm mabobby.

have you tried lengthening the master cylinder actuator rod to get rid of the freeplay?

you should be able to take the tin cover off the top of the pedal box from the under bonnet side and theres a threaded rod that goes through the pedal, lengthen the rod to reduce pedal freeplay, there should be ~10mm freeplay IIRC. once thats done have you pulled back the rubber covers on the wheel cylinders and checked condition of the bores? any wetness is bad, it will be drawing in air there. also if you can get hold of a pressure bleeding system it helps to push any air in the system out. something like a gunson ezbleed system. i take it you have bled all four corners? i was told when having the same problem as you that pupming the pedal till it went solid then jamming it down overnight this compresses the air and sometimes brings it closer to a bleed nipple. it can be frustrating but sometimes just needs a LOT of bleeding, i.e. emptying a litre of fluid through each corner in extreme cases. i replaced a wheel cylinder 3 times, 2 of the replacements were faulty. it took loads of diagnosing, because i was in the mindset that surely the same replacement part cant be faulty yet again... sometimes it is just that simple

that happens to manufacturers that source from the UK too, some companies will quote low, manufacture a batch well and then when QC is passed, the quality starts to slip its not just a china problem unfortunately

i agree about the super weak axles, but have you ever driven a modern LR off road? even on road tyres our D4 is unstoppable would love to see what one can do on a decent set of muds!

to be quite honest snagger, i have air tools and while theyre good, the noise of the compresser kicking in does my nut in, plus half the time it trips the socket circuit haha. i probably need to give it a good service to make sure its working as it should as maybe it has started to get stiff haha. id love an electric impact gun! P.S. nice reel. i have a retractable air hose best air tool i ever bought haha so much easier to keep out the way and you dont trip over it

thats what rev matching (double clutching) is for, it enables you to change down from a higher speed without any crunching

also because its fertilised with bull****

i still definately regret selling my A reg 110, it had so many decent qualities just needed a chassis and engine really but alas i was 14 at the time

after as much work as you have done to the old girl, i would be happy if that was the only list, all easy to fix and not too expensive. replacement calipers would be much easier and shiny but more spendy (P.S. is a LR handbrake EVER as effective as it should be?? haha)

to be fair, youve made it really far before getting the hump with it. but the little details are the ones that dont show much visual progress, but make all the differrence to the end product. we have all been through this, all to varying degrees from a small repair to a full on nut and bolt restoration. i admire you for taking a 200 disco, and restoring it completely. its about time poeple should start saving them instead of harvesting them. an yes, i am guilty of stripping one down for the engine, but whenever i see one on the road (hardly EVER) i smile to myself, as even though they arent generally modified, you know the driver is a true through and through land rover enthuaiast. when was the last time you saw a 200Tdi Disco driving down the road? i can guarantee it made you smile. take a break from it, put it aside, somewhere it wont degrade, cover it up for a while, maybe a week, maybe a month, maybe a few months. i can guarantee you will find yourself wanting to get back to work on it in due course. thats when youre ready to continue what other toys do you have that need work? what do you want to fabricate for the workshop? a SMALL project is a great break from something like this. P.S. hung over under dash work never feels good. i bet you fell asleep under there at some point

fair enough then, from my experience anyway the front shoes didnt last long at all, the "wear out in a day" thing is very extreme, and its not often that this happens to anyone. im not saying you are wrong and i am right, to be honest it more than likely was down to the friction material quality, (I NEVER use b**tpart though for obvious reasons especially on brakes) i have only ever once changed a rear set of shoes over 4 years, and i dont neglect them. but the fronts did seem to seriously wear. i dont have that problem now, i have gone for a year with my current greenstuff pads which are still 75+% material left (which btw i wouldnt actually reccomend despite the reputation being wuite good, they give a spongy pedal and do wear faster than Mintex which i normally use) i also found that getting mud in the brake drums rapidly accellerated shoe wear, as it couldnt escape as easily. but again, this is just my experience on my truck. i have never once replaced the shoes on our MF 135 which lives in muck as its a scraper tractor. and theyres still probably 50% plus material on there. (its been at least 10 years since they were last changed) which would support what you say too. i dont want to go about misleading poeple at all.

get on the phone to John Richard Surplus, theyre based in hinstock near market drayton and sell ex MOD vehicles, im sure they would be able to answer all your questions regarding registration