discomikey

clutch fork? although you seem to have covered all the bases so i would imagine you inspected that

a long shot, but how was your spigot bush? in theory other than the clutch its the only thing that could somehow have gone tight and added drag, although i really really couldnt imagine it being that otherwise it would have been an absolute ball ache to put the box back in and also i cant see it being able to sieze up enough to actually make a difference

ive always used a 9/16 socket and 3/8" drive wobble extension and ratchet for props so much quicker than the "2 spanners" method IMO

i highly disagree remember the overdrive is an extremely useful "optional" gearing increase and on motorways at ahem.. 70mph.. it drops the revs right down whilst still providing the neccessary torque required to efficiently cruise and it can be used as a "third and a half" which is always useful. Ashcrofts gearing ratio calculator is extremely good at showing you what you have

please, do not fit britpart to your hubs, bearing wise or seal wise. it will only cost you the expense of an early replacement bearing set AT BEST... at worst, you wont have a truck to replace the bearings on. please see attached an exploded diagram of a coiler axle FRONT hub, the part numbers may be different to what you need but the components there are fundimentally the same. this shows you there is a larger bearing that goes in behind the hub, and a smaller one that goes in the front. There is a specific pre load that you need to set your bearings too, there are many ways to set this, Even LR themselves have specified different methods of this. but perhaps the most simple one is this one: Taken from the 300TDi defender RAVE manual okay, yours isnt a 300TDi base model, it is earlier but it doesent make any difference. many poeple just do them up by feel, but you cant pass that experience on via the www so perhaps this is the safest way of doing it

probably easier to remove the rear bulkhead IMHO unless its a truck cab

i have closed end nuts purely for the fact they are deeper than the sockets i might use to remove them therefore i physically cannot scratch the wheel plus they look slightly better IMO being zinc plated and not rust coloured. but no IIRC it was only really the wolf wheels which required the longer studs? maybe mach 5's too?

so whats the difference between that and poeple riding in the back of my 88 pickup, with or without 3/4 tilt. as long as there were seats? im sure it would be illegal but effectively its the same haha

it does have to if it is business equipment etc. as my workshop is personal, and not for the business it doesent HAVE to be LOLER'd IIRC but id rather like it if my ramp was certificated.

i would agree with that, 24 would be said "idler", although that would only show symptoms in all gears whereas you say no problem in 4th? definately worth checking though!

like you say, the manufacturer puts hours into stuff like this, i know from experience working in both the design, and development areas. obviously the component is designed, the correct grade of material, structure and applications in mind to name but a few factors, the component will then be put through a DFMEA process and then (in todays age) put through an FEA on the CAD system. the drawing will specify the relevant information on workmanship, quality and tolerances etc, when recieved as a prototype part it will then be put through a Fit and Function, most likely taken to MIRA and put well through its paces over and over again. often for days, or weeks on end, in all conditions that should ever be accounted for, finally, the component will be inspected for any signs of fatigue or faliure, and a full report written up on the changes made. whereas we just whack something together, bash it a few times and say, yeah thats plenty strong enough i could imagine that is probably why manufacturers are "aloud" to do stuff like welded steering components, and we arent. P.S. that is with a plant machinery company. imagine how much testing BMW, Ferrari, Mercedes etc do.

not offended by you as such, i just dont like being put in that category and as far as it goes i often still am put in that category, unbeknown to the other person that i could probably back a trailer in circles around them and i pride myself in knowing what to do when other drivers have gotten me into a situation, i.e. not being a berk and just anchoring up like 90% of all aged drivers. i also believe that driving a rear wheel drive series with a fair amount of power and a "proper" transmission, made me a better driver and gave me a proper understanding of RWD dynamics. i bet there arent a lot of 17 -24yr olds that have that understanding. hell, i have 4 gearlevers to play with, 2 of them simultaneously, your average mondeo doesent

had to rebiold a carb on the TE20 at the side of the road. nothing major but the float valve stuck open and it was peeing fuel

i have (from CrazyWabbit) the electrical manuals for TDCI but also have a TD5 electrical manual if yours is one of those, although i assume not purely because neither models should need rewiring

each clutch friction plate should have the words stamped, or printed "Flywheel Side" or the letters "FS" obviously you dont want to pull the box again straight away, i would suggest removing the slave cylinder or just connection and seeing if you can do a simple pressure test on it, you should be able to fit some kind of a guage to it, and depress the clutch and set it firm with something solid (legs get weak over time and back off) the pressure should read the same it should not drop over time if it does you have a faulty master, if not it points to either the slave or something mechanical. slave is easy to check, peel back the rubber dust shield and check for wetness, athough being that bad i would imagine its soaking both sides of the dust cover. if not loosing fluid its unlikely to be a leak or a slave cylinder fault. there are internal seals in the master which if fail could just circulate the pressurised fluid back to reservoir.

Im a young driver, i drive with mechanical sympathy and drive a range of vehicles from a 13/60 herald and series land rovers all the way up to D4's and the most modern big tractors, i dont spend most of my time on my side or broken down while i admit to having had a crash involving a brick wall at the side of a road i fully admit responsibility and to be quite honest if you ask 90% of poeple if they have crashed and its their fault they will say yes, no matter the age regards to sense what i am doing, i have been driving cars and tractors around 10 years, have a comprehensive mechanical and electrical understanding of the ins and outs of 99% of what i drive (but really who actually DOES understand what black magic is involved in an autobox?) so i would argue what makes me (21) have less sense than the average person who is 10-20 years older than me? although i do agree with your statement i would also add that i see a lot of poeple who are twice, or 3 times my age drive with less mechanical sympathy than the stig so its not just us young'uns and yes i can also drive in the snow sorry, one day ill be the one complaining about young drivers and their lack of sense and mechanical sympathy too

all to do with the thickness of the paint applied, the pressure of the gun, and the speed in which applied. in order to get it to match you will have to do some trial and error on an old body panel

unless you are in a go kart (which has rather extreme castor and camber), you shouldnt be able to feel any self centering as its the "drag" as such which pulls the steering straight again. hence why coming out of a junction and you start off slow then boot it, it doesent really feel like its centering at all, and when you do boot it you can let go of the wheel and it will straighten up all on its own im sure itll be fine, with the attention to detail and workmanship going into this build.

Just remind her that love comes before hobby, and thats why she will have to wait... Mine is encouraging me at the moment as she has no one to tow her donkey thing about. but i still cant get the insurance cheap enough to have both it and the "chevy" insured

the steering relay has a brake damper type system in it, its not as efficient as a traditional oil type steering damper like you have fitted, and they can get quite weak, thus the option for the later series III's so if your running coiler axles and series steering system, not an issue, if you run a later steering box, PAS, manual (not that i can see a point in converting to "defender" manual steering haha) then you ought to fit a coiler steering damper

its amazing the difference a high build primer can make, you can spend as little or as many hours as you like flatting it back its just one of those things, it will help to even out anything, especially if you might get slight runs in it or the etch coat i would go for a sealer primer before that (But after the etch) as well in an ideal world. but 100% definately would if you had paint bubble anywhere like the bottom of your doors as if you dont it will be a matter of weeks, maybe months depending on weather before those bubbles return, on an otherwise very smart paint job. pop those bubbles and behind it is water. this is because behind each bubble there will be a pinhole in the aluminium, nirmally invisible to the human eye.

thanks guys

the main issue is cost but then again the defender cant be far behind the base model D4 (spec for spec) these days. and i fully agree with the TC thing, i could pretty much guarantee someone somewhere (most likely down under) has created a D3/4 flatbed UTE and i bet it looks great as well as being super useful!

+1 for britcar very helpful descriptions as well as you know what your buying (As in OE, B***part, and other manufacturers) P.s. a heads up on the britpart stuff, many of us have learned the hard way, that yes it is miles cheaper, but for a reason

how much money do you have? if only i could afford to rebuild a 2012 defender! haha