discomikey

i have the metro wheel with 235's on modulars too quite the arm building setup without PAS haha

when riding in the exmoor seats, and with the 90 pinned round a corner (this is very unlikely to happen) the seats can tilt with you on them. im sure there is a way to lock them down but it can be a fun experience. i have ridden in these seats for an hour or 2 solid and where they arent the most comfortable, neither is a normal land rover anyway. but i am young so i can hack it haha

ahh cheers sorry should really take the time to catch up on missed posts

exactly why i changed to front disks, i actively argue that drums CAN be just as good as disks, if not sometimes better. but it does depend on so many variables like which master cylinder, wether its suited to the "actuator" in the system. but of course the downfalls of drums are fade, and most of all, the wear. when heavily towing over the moors even when using engine braking to the max, i could get through a full set of front shoes in a day. not ideal!

therefore i would assume that they would be good quality springs, the set that i mabaged to disform (bearmach) were quite obviously cheaper made. i would assume your springs would be on a quality and strength level as my RM paras. personally i would give your front axle and steering system a full health check over before going down the route of a modification as it may well be a few things all building up to create one set of symptoms

Also surprise me too, i wont say who i was thinking, but the few parts i have ordered over the LR series website hasnt resulted in me emailing the company and as a result ive never had to physically contact the company. so i cant really complain but will definately be more aware of their customer service in the future

Thanks FF

out of interest (and i assume thats drums (under 400) to disks (over 650)) were the drums fully adjusted and balanced?

where abouts would it be in the UK? sorry if i have missed this already posted im at work so sneakily posting haha

i could hazard a guess too i think

Not on portals, but i MOT'd my truck with a fully adjusted brand new set of full drums and decent shoes, then a couple of weeks later did my disk brake conversion on my series axle. (standard 10" drums all round to 10" drums on the rear and discovery single line disk brake system on the front) my disks and pads werent bedded in by the time i had its stopping performance measured, which would have affected the efficiency, but surprisingly although i cant remember the exact figures, the drum system was 10% more efficient than the disk system

that looks a slightly different set to me

can i ask what make paras they are? sorry if youve already said.

there is an act, cant remember which one off the top og my head, but it is "fit for purpose" or something along those lines, basically, a spare part for example for a 4x4, must be fit for purpose, the purpose of a 4x4 is to be used across all terrains. if the ball isnt fit for use off road, it doesent comply to the act. i had a set of parabolics fully refunded because they had cracked, twisted, warped and generally misshaped that much my truck sat down 6" on one side. i claimed i had used my truck on pay and play sites regularly, but these springs should be designed to cope. they obviously couldnt cope with the wrap involved in driving off road in some curcumstances. so they couldnt argue. and gave me a full refund. 1X set of RM parabolics later and couldnt be happier with them!

no, halfords sell those plastic inserts with the tools in seperate, unless they have expanded their range they only do the 1/2" drive socket set, 3/8" - 1/4" drive socket set and a metric spanner set (with pipe flare spanners) pretty in comprehensive kits there arent any spanners or sockets "missing" the only extra spanners i bought were obviously an AF set a metric stubby set, and metric ratchet spanners which halfords also do. the only sockets i have bought extra are E (Female torx) bits and a set of hex key sockets. I dont have the 1/2" drive set by halfords, mine is the old (when it used to be decent quality) draper expert. but i honestly cant fault the halfords tools at all yet! i want to buy the !/2" set because it keeps everyrthing so organised and you can clearly tell whats missing after a job sorry, probably preaching to the converted

sorry, a bit O/T... is that a tank???

lost my keys a while ago, its a shame really as when dad borrows them to botch his tractors up he never puts them back!

interesting thought on those double acting wheel cylinders, i assume they would be a near straight fit to the backing plate, im just unsure as to wether they would put out a similar braking force than the standard cylinders. if they do they could work well as a cable operated rear wheel brake system, or maybe would be able to adapt them to the handbrake drum, keeping a mechanical link, whilst having a hydraulic ability too!

i could see it putting stress on the bushes as the springs compress as a panhard rod moves in an arc so when compressed your body will move to the right in relation to your axle, in order to cancel out this effect on the steering, the panhard rod needs to be at the same angle and the same length as the drag link. with a standard leaf spring setup when the front suspension compresses, the axle moves backwards, but laterally it stays in the same place. there would be more stress on the panhard rod bushes from the for/aft movement of the axle, and also because the rod would try and push the axle out of its "natural" suspension cycle with the leaf springs, also effectively sharing that lateral stress with the springs and their bushes. I have no idea what this would actually do when fitted in a real life situation, but theoretically a watts linkage, although much harder to package, especially on a series vehicle, would be the ideal for this. out of interest, what springs are you now running? have you checked all your suspension bushes, the torque setting on the u bolts, and the condition of all your steering linkages? it sounds to me more like the swivels may need adjusting, this along with slack in the steering system would give you your symptoms. the change in springs may just be coincedence, or may have contributed to castor angle changes which could in effect amplify this problem which may have developed over time. hope this helps

Snagger, That looks to be a mobile shot blasting process to me, Mikey

is it trying to fire? while turning it over, pull one plug at a time and listen for a difference in sound. if the sound changes, the cylinder is firing, or at least trying to, if there is no sound change, then that is your problem cylinder(s) dont grab a lead while turning over though it hurts a little with 30+000 volts going up your arm sounds dumb but have you got the correct firing order, but mirrored, i.e. on the opposite banks? have you took any plugs out to see if they are wet, i.e. fuel is getting to them all?

is there ANYTHING at all disconnected? go over the whole engine. is it producing a decent spark to start with? again check the leads are not only in the correct order but also in properly connected both ends, check the coil/coils/coil packs for a supply voltage and check their earths

the lock barrels are cheap and available on our favorite generic internet auction site you just need to search for a barrel matching one of the codes on the existing barrels.

i run both 3.54 diffs and 235/80R16's so there is a fair bit of efficiency loss there yes. the standard handbrake on a standard series can be great, although as with all modified vehicles especially off roaders, its the maintenance and reliability issues i am trying to reduce

my bet too haha, the pics of mine and a mates disco further up was at biggin quarry on the flat bit