scube

Sorry - the gear in the transfer box would be equally as knackered. It is easer to replace that gear than it is to replace the shaft out of the gearbox though What ever you buy best to check by popping of the PTO cover and having a peer inside

Hi I have a similar problem with my Range Rover. You can either fit a defender transfer box which has a lower ratio or as I did hunt around for a transfer box from an MPI discovery which I have been told has the lowest ratio of all the Land Rover transfer boxes. Changing the diffs to defender one's will also have a lesser effect to the over all gearing change but will also help which compensating for the tyre change. Hope this helps. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Hi Check to see what angle your rear pinion shaft is at, compaired to the trasfer box if the angle between the two is grater than say 25drg or origanal if you can remeber. Then you can buy tapered spacers to go under the spring cup on the axle to pitch the axle back towards oraginal angle. Much cheaper than caster correcting trailing arms. Also check to make sure that the yoke of the main propshaft (not the flanges) is not bottoming out on the flange that you bolt to the axle or transfer box (propbind) You will be able to see marks on the prob if this is happening. Hope this helps. Scube

Check out your earths a doggie earth can stop a vehicle

P38 engine’s have sensors which keep the ignition just off the pinking point to make it as economic as possible they are called knock sensors (dugh) the crank sensors may also be playing up. Best to pop it into a specialist to plug it into some diagnostic equipment.

The flat low battery caused the gearbox fault to appear in the display. It’s not a problem now that you have put some charge back into the battery. I had a problem with my alarm continually waking up when parked outside my place. Every time I went to start it, it would either be so flat that the engine would not start or the gearbox fault would be displayed. You did the right thing with turning the ignition on and off a few times before driving off.

Its late so forgive me for just noticing the time. Night shifts !

Okay I'm interested. what time?

Yes Discovery I Range Rover Classic and defender diff pans are the same size. Filler may be in different configuration. For the cost of the diff pan you could consider getting another axle and replaceing it

On average you get 2 or 3 mpg less on LPG than on petrol so I would expect you should be getting more unless you are having fun with the loud peddle or spend all your time driving around town. I use to get about 16mpg from my range rover classic with a single point system

It looks like the hose you have that is capped off should go back to the radiator or somewhere on the engine/cooling system so there is a circulation path. That’s what happens on my Range Rover. Though the path is different to what you have. I have one pipe which goes to the engine and another that goes to the radiator. Hope this helps

Nice picture. It’s all to do with the speed in which the ends of the UJ travel in when at an angle. (On end of the cross will travel faster than the other in the same way the outside wheel will travel faster then the inside wheel when turning a corner) UJ have a tolerance at which they will work. The more you life the vehicle the greater the angle the two UJs have to work towards each other and a drumming effect starts which causes vibration. Double Cardon joints work like a CV and turn at a constant speed independent of the angle they are working at.

Oh arr I do love Land Rovers.

I had a similar problem and like Scatt I went through the same costly trial and error exercise having spoken to all the propshaft people claiming to have the solution. Wider yoke propshafts are only useful for extreme articulation where prop bind is a problem. I eventually got an answer from the main man at QT which made sense for Land Rover. Two seemingly identical vehicles both having the same 2” lift one will be fine while the other one can experience all sorts of problems. This has been the way things have worked out with me. One defender and two range rovers all lifted by 2” only one gave me a problem. I fitted caster correction radius arms and double carden to the front of my Range Rover however to my frustration it also seems to of effected the rear prop as well. I have changed nose bearings in the transfer box and even replaced the transfer box to cure the problem. Rear prop is being modified with a double carden as well.. Hopefully this will finally cure the problem.

Okay you said over 50 but is the wine there in 4th or just 5th any particular gear the wine is heard in?

I was asked by a friend to see if I could get her motorcycle started, into bikes in a big way at the time, still have one now but the Land Rover have taken over. Well I was struggling to keep the dam thing going once I got it started so she asked a neighbour who was a mechanic who trundled up in his battered but well equipped 90 full of tools. We got to talking and discovered he was off to Morocco in a couple of months. Well that was six years ago since then I have owned a 90 and four Range Rovers. Met loads of great people been to some amazing places and generally had a load of fun. Funny how things can change over a simple meeting.

Hope this is useful to someone. I have a P38 which all of a sudden started to make a horrendous vibration / noise coming from the dash or so it seamed. It was difficult to pin down quite where the noise was coming from as it would start about 70 mph and got increasingly louder as the speed increased. (Sort of makes sense now but at the time I looked everywhere but outside of the vehicle) To cut a long story short the source of the noise came from the plastic strip which runs across the top of the windscreen, the wind pressure started to lift the edge which seals against the windscreen. I plan to replace the trim later but a strip of silicon and refitting the trim has done the trick. The trim is relative easy to remove though you will need to buy a new set of clips as it’s almost impossible to remove without breaking some of them, luckily they are not expensive.

I ripped a hole in the side wall of an expensive mud tyre since then I have used remould as the financial pain in replacing is no where near as bad. Never had a problem with remould off road. I do have two sets of wheel for when I’m doing a lot of road work so not to wear out the mud’s to fast though. Remould muds don’t seem to last all that long when used on tarmac for to long. A trip to the south of France had noticeable ware on them