scube

Well normally rear, as that is where the load can vary. I have to say I'm a Range Rover man and not up on the newer defenders. My first Land Rover was an old 90 with a 2" Bearmach lift and it handled fine. Generally off-roaders remove anti-role bars to give more articulation. Do you carry a lot of gear in the back of your 90? A friend of mine doubled up on his shocks on a disco and almost turned it into a race car, very harsh ride but went very well into corners.

Only Land Rover specify different spring between drivers and passenger Aftermarket suspension providers only cater for front and back not driver/passenger so don't get to bogged down with that. Unless someone out in LR4x4 land knows otherwise! How old are your de Carbons? There expensive shocks so would expect them to perform. I think "crwoody’s" thought of anti-role bars on your mates 90 is something to check.

Thank you Ally V8 I know Clinton I will give him a bell like the exchange idea. Cheers I changed the bushes on my classic when I got it.. made such a differance I have wanted to do the same with my P38 Will do now.

Some of the bushes on the P38 are bigger than the hole they fit in and need a conical tool to compress them down while on the press to get them into the hole. Bugger Hence thinking poly bush But if the bushes are under that much pressure I wonder how poly will perform.

My P38 has covered 115,000 hard miles and I'm thinking its due some new bushes would love to fit STD bushes but they need special equipment to fit them. My local garage only has one of the tools required for a complete change. Has anyone out there in Range Rover land had any experience with Poly Bush in P38’s. I have to say I'm not a fan of Poly bush myself but needs must.

Try backing the hand brake adjuster off and see if the noise goes away.. Square peg on the back plate of the hand brake, if you think the adjustment is fine now remember how many turns you back it off by then your be able to put it back to original.

Buy every single nut and bolt you can think you will need and then keep looking for more. I was involved with a 110 chassis change once and that was the biggest problem.. Really ! I'm sure there will be loads of advice coming from people but I bet once you have finished your agree.

In short Yes.. Get a new one.

In addition to what Axlechorus has mentioned What your disco like to drive in a straight line? If it seems to need correcting often to keep her going in a straight line then it maybe that you have tight swivels I’m sure at some at some stage your have had a leak or CV replaced and the swivels may have been put back together less a shim or two. This will have the effect of stiffing up the steering. There are numerous threads here about setting up the swivel tension.

They don't last as long as Diesel but there not that bad. I had an Alfa which I took to 200,000 and a friend of mine had a P38 from new and many years later sold it @ 175,000 and as far as I'm aware it’s still going strong. You do hear story’s of V8's not lasting much after 100,000 I'm currently running two with well over 100,000 miles and they don't show any sings of giving in just yet. I must say that the BMW engine is a cracking engine and doesn’t have the horror stories surrounding it that the land Rover V8's do.

No problem the BMW engine is good for a lot more than that. I would guess that the miles were mainly clocked up on the motorway.. no real strain on the running gear. As long as it has had regular services Personally I don't worry about high mileage with engines these days

Very normal not to worry. Gearbox right blow You should see how hot it gets under the carpet on a Range Rover with a V8 in it. Toasty

Standard Milatary land Rover roof. - Fitted to the Wolf

I believe it will. 300 TDi have two versions

I did the grill on my Range Rover classic. Popped into Halfords and brought some of there plastic primer and satin black. Worked a treat and it holds up well even after a few off road trips, still looks good after a wash. Wash the plastic with soapy water first then off you go. Good luck

Bishbosh is right however only if the Discovery or some of the later Range Rovers have the rubber doughnut instead of the normal UJ. All the rest of the diff’s will bolt on no problem.

http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xProd=114227&xSec=5497 is the only place I could find any referance to the part you want

Thank you will check the earths, I do believe I have a spare switch as well. Earth.. you need a good earth

65 amp will work fine.. You don’t have heated screen air con etc. Saying that if you can stretch to the 100 amp I would stick that in. Tensioner? Not unless it’s making a noise or feels wobbly

Personally I would stick to genuine When ever I get a new vehicle I replace the bush’s with genuine items, there not expensive and make a noticeable difference to the way it feels. Polly bush sets are easer to fit.

I suppose it all depends what your main bias will be.. Off road ability or on road servility? Personally I don’t think land rovers are not the sort of thing you tend to drive like a 16 year old in a hot hatch. I have always removed the Anti Role Bar’s from my vehicles for its off road ability and drive on road accordingly, why rush to the next traffic jam. Removing anti role bars allow the wheels to drop a little further giving the tyres more chance to grip. Its up to you, if you want to chuck your discovery about on the road leave them connected.

If it drives well, doesn’t lean much in the corners etc etc You could just replace the bushes Top NRC5593 x 2 Bottom RNF100090L x 4 STD rear shocks are STC3767 x 2 Or go for an upgrade and fit gas shocks. No right or wrong option it a matter of choice.

Two answer your question the only alignment / balance you have to worry about is not to pull the prop apart (the splines you mention on the front prop). If you do and do not re-align the splines correctly you may create a balance problem. The prop is balanced (small weight tacked to the prop along its body) Replace the UJ’s with the prop in one piece. If you have not done this before, a tip when fitting the new UJ’s is to push the first cap and UJ cross deep into the flange (further than needed for the fit) so that you can get the other cap onto the UJ’s cross which helps keep the needle rollers in place when you start to push is back into place. Hope this helps. Mark

Got a question for you guys with RRC’s My 1992 classic has just generated a strange fault. When I operate the seat control on the driver’s seat (memory seat) the mirrors move but not the seat. I have replaced seat relays and the memory seat ECU with no luck, yes yes okay just move the seat to where its most comfortable and leave it there.. Done that but I like to get to the bottom of things and work out what happened. Passenger seat works as it should. Can’t think of anything else which could cause such a strange problem. Any ideas?

It should last longer that that. If you change the propshat you will also have to replace the drive flange on the diff.. they will swap over. Not a difficult job but you may need a socket with a very long bar to give you the leverage / power to remove the nut on the diff. Or access to an Air gun. I did work up a sweat when changing a friends.