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Fair comment about the search within the site… I apologise.

I opened this topic to see if I would find something of interest as I am going to be extending my breathers mainly because I have the pipe kicking around and was hoping to find something useful.. Silly me, just sarcasm. ! That’s not what the forums are about.. 11,636 posts.. That’s a lot of useful information you have imparted to the people who visit this forum. Or is it.. just……

Nice job. I hung my CB from the roof of a bobtail I had, smacked myself in the head with the mic on a Crazy Iven move to avoid a nutty taxt in Morocco.. That's a nice job you have done there, looks very professional.

Your have to post it on this site as well if you want people to see what you have done. Unless you’re a member of the forum you can’t see your post

Well it bodes well that your battery still holds charge though you won’t know the health of the battery until it has load applied to it. I would say your alternator sounds fine it should be kicking out that sort of volts to charge. I would use it but keep an eye on it, if you’re concerned pop to your local garage or battery emporium and ask if they can check your battery under load. The question is why it boiled dry? Was there a short somewhere?

Do you still have the clutch damper in place. It’s the circular lump put in between the clutch master and slave by Land Rover I believe in an attempt to reduce clutch snatch. Try removing it if its still there. I have known these things to give real problems when bleeding the system. Also try removing the slave, pushing the piston back into the cylinder. Hold it in place and bleed the system again.

Brake pulling to the right, you probably have a seized calliper piston; try forcing the calliper pistons back to free them up. Air in the system I would expect to be the main culprit however its worth inspecting the brake master cylinder also could well be at fault, the brake fluid may be passing back past the seal when you press the peddle

Slidy bit always fit to transfer box.

Can you see any part numbers?

Well you could, however have you considered that you have the springs on the wrong way round .. front to back? Springs are different front to back, length and poundage. If you like the lift you could do as you suggest however you wouldn’t get any more travel just height

Thanks mudmagnet, looks like I will be joining a club.

Hello This has just got to be done - What’s the story behind this? Is it something you can sort out for yourself or do you have to book with a club? I’ve been reading loads of stuff across the forums but no one actually details; where it is, how to get there, how to book.. generally what the score is. Can someone fill in the gaps for me? If it is organised through the four wheel drive club do you have to be a member. Many thanks Mark

Break callipers have to be removed but I would take the hub off in one lump.. 6 or 7 bolts hold’s the hub to the axle remove these and once the track rods have been disconnected you can take the swivel/disk/hub and half shaft of in one lump. Do that on both sides, remove the propshaft and bobs your uncle, fanny’s your aunt etc etc. I’m sure your get other advice but that’s the way I would attack the problem.

How about the steering damper, could well be a fault with it.. Well worth a try before spending money on Steering Box or pump

Check to see if you have lost any balance weights.. Sounds like wheel balance

Does the heater blower not work on all speeds or just the slower ones? If it works on the fast setting it’s not the motor but the resistor. The resistor is more normal

I would guess it’s your power steering pump at fault.

Temperature sender not telling the ECU that its cold so not starting on choke

A friend of mine had a similar problem and was told it was the spider.. He kept plugging away to get to the bottom of the problem, even in desperation took it to a couple of garages. In the end it turned out to be the rear door curtsey light switch the wires behind the switch had chaffed. Worth checking the simple things first.

Land Rovers are worth more with Land Rover engines in them.. There is enough to choose from. Saying that my first Land Rover was 90 with an Isuzu in it.. My only problem came when I had to change the clutch, it had a bit of both which took a few trips back to the Land Rover and Isuzu parts dealerships to sort out.

An easer option if you want more power would be the 4.2 from the classic LSE. A marked upgrade in power to the 3.9

Aragorn.. What I meant is you won’t get it to work without it and another ECU BCM etc from another P38 will have to be configured to work with it.. As Hybrid from hell says get the lot, if you’re going to do it.

Just make sure you have all the ECU’s from the doner vehicle. The ECU is keyed to the engine. Thor is a lot more sophisticated motor..

Just a thought! Have you tried pushing down on the bolt you’re trying to undo to see if you can get the serrated edges of the captive nut to catch?

Bugger.. I would go for Bearmach then, or Allmakes. Dingocroft sell a lot of Allmakes stuff.