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I know lamda sensors are not cheep but I would say you have a duff one. Over fueling on one side smacks of lamda sensor

I always considered the filler for the ZF 4 speed auto to be one of those things where the engineers sat back pleased with themselves for a good job done having a cup of tea when a technician came in and asked how to fill the gearbox with oil? The engineers would look at themselves and Oh hell forgot about that try poring it in through the dip stick ! Yes you fill the box through the dip stick. Remember the torque converter holds a couple of litres and always check the level with the engine running.

Some say Bigger is better... ! Not in this case Yikes.

Longer nipples - job done.

Clutch thrust bearing?

When you disconnect the LPG it will seal itself off / shut down the flow. So no problem there.

All power steering pumps make some noise when at the end of the travel or working hard trying to turn tyres that are not moving. Not so much as a squealing noise though. You may have air in the system from a leak, I have replaced a few pumps and bleeding has usually been a case of turning from lock to lock a few times to clear the air in the system. The fluid will turn pink with small bubbles, luckly I have never had to anything more involved than that.

I would want to do something about it.. But I tend to do stuff like that (must get a life sometime) Weld a washer over the whole? Put a bit of weld around the edge that has been worn away and clean up with a file? You have it all apart and cleaned up. Dose it need doing.. Maybe not if you tighten the shock mount up nice and tight so it less inclined to move about. Will it effect the new shock, not sure doubt it.

Borge and Beck.. Only cluth to fit and a genuine clutch fork.. You don't want to be doing it again.

Yes there are a bunch of them about. Bearmach sell a number of different versions.. Some where a donor card is required so you can leave your arm or and leg at the door as you leave and some not so expensive. http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/scanners.html http://www.bearmach.com/products.html

Okay doky Got to bottom of it now You have removed the four 10 mm bolts already; they are still there between the hub and disk. Put the bolts back in for a few threads and gently leaver against the bolts pushing the ring up from the disk. Gently moving on to leaning on it with a large leaver as I remember. I wouldn’t put heat anywhere near it myself. The exciter ring would probably start to deform. I should have looked closer at your pictures, it was a few years back that I did the job.

Humm so it would seam.. It was a long time ago but I do remember snapping one of the bolts and cussing thinking I would have to replace something expensive. I will ask a mechanic friend of mine see if he can shed any light on it.

It took some time to track it down and I forgot I replied to your question. What I did eventually find was a small hair line crack in the seam sealer along the roof as it dips down towards the windscreen. The roof looks like it’s actually made up of three sections. The large area with the sun roof fitted and the two side pieces either side of the channel’s along the roof for roof rack fits. What I found was the three pieces are spot welded together and seam sealed, all well and good. In the end I took the roof lining down and with the black channel out and everything cleaned up. I had a friend to pore water slowly in different places over the roof until I got a wet leg. Small application of silicon and all is well.

I had to replace my rear disks some time ago and I do recall four small bolts which are in the exciter ring, under the mud and scuffed up material on your photos. There quite tiny and I snapped one getting them out. Give it a good wash out and scrape the groves free of carp, should be there Good luck

I believe the borge warner is a higher gearing. I’m sure someone will put me right if I am wrong. How will you be effecting the gearing soon?

Personally I think the P38 sits to high with coils on. Everyone I have seen looks like a P38 with the air suspension set on off road. I can understand why people go to coils but a well maintained air suspension works well. Good luck with the change. Post a picture when finished.

If your RRC has traction control which the later one’s had. Plugging textbook in or other PC interface will allow the traction control and abs to self bleed. Never done it myself but that’s that the book says. Other than that have a look at this for bleeding ABS Hope this helps abs_brake_bleed_rrc.pdf

The ABS exciter ring is held in with 4 small bolts. By the look of your exciter ring they are buried in muck. You wont get the ring out without undoing these bolts. Hope this helps

No its not meant to be water tight.. In each corner of the sun roof is a drain as you mentioned. I expect you have the same problem that I have either the drain on the sun roof to the drain tube is broken or the drain tube has come off. Before you start pulling the sun roof apart its worth checking that the drain tube is not blocked.. easiest way to do this is to blow down it with an air line. That or you have to take the inner wheel arch out to get at the drain. Good luck. I will add to this question when I finally fix my leak. Cheers Mark

The easest way to tell if the viscus unit has or is failing is to make some tight turns, round mini roundabouts should do. If the steering fights you the viscus unit is knackered or on the way out.

Not worth the money.. Stick with GEN bush's worth the couple of quid more than the patten items.

Really not worth re-building your steering box.. A seal kit will only work for a short time. I do believe a four bolt will bolt on in its place.. Maybe someone else will know for sure.

If it is oil related V8 is an old design engine and I always put a good quality 20/50 mineral oil in my range rover

Rich As your in Swindon Pop into Swindon 4x4 ask for Simon and tell him Mark sent you. He specialises in V8s and probably wont charge you if all he has to do is have a look and give you some advice. He does know his stuff when it comes to V8s For directions and contact number check out his web site www.swindon4x4.co.uk Mark

Diesel P38 Range Rover starting difficulty – some diesels do have a problem with firing up they do eventually start but need a bit of winding up. I have seen someone selling on ebay claiming to cure the problem. My friend had one and I never got to the bottom of it. If you don’t mind winding it up it dose not mean that there is other problems with the motor. (He had his chipped by the way which is worth doing but did not cure the problem) Not sure if this is the same problem you describe as you say it started with a bit of gas, never made any difference to my friend’s one Hope it helps