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Hi Doing this is not the best way of getting more travel from longer springs the travel is set by the shock absorbers. I cut two inch’s out of my turrets and fitted drop plates to the rear shocks. I did it because I do a lot of overland travel and it is a lot easer to get standard length shocks if you break one.

You don’t mention anything about changing the fuel filter.. I’m no expert in Diesels or Veg power for that matter. However when I owned a diesel I found it loved a clean fuel filter. I have read that veg power clogs up the fuel filter though I would of expected that problem to of cleared up after a years driving

Sounds like you have a bit of a problem there.. You could have a bit more than 2” lift; generally you can get away with a 2” lift with very little trouble. If you have more than a 2” lift it could be that the Castor angle has changed radically which would require either caster correction arms or bushes. Alternatively the pan hard rod bushes could be worn, steering ball joints may also be worn, it’s worth checking the swivel pre load All these things can effect steering.

Delphi are non branded origanal.. Good stuff

Get underneath, with the vehicle out of gear and the hand brake off.. Chock it first so you don’t run over yourself that would never do. Hold the prop close to the UJ joint and try to move it from side to side and up and down (in the direction to the UJ points) or just give it a dam good shake. Any movement you have a knackered UJ .. A little bit of movement can sometimes be taken out with regreasing.

Try the Land Rover Orphanage for standard land rover colours. They do a line of spray tins that do a good job. www.landroverorphanage.com As with everything preparation preparation preparation – to get the best finish preparation is everything. You don't necessarily have to strip the existing paint back though you will run the risk of a reaction which would require you having to strip it back. If you want to try and spray onto the existing paint then try a test area first just to make sure.

Or maybe the fuel filter could do with replaceing, also check the condition of the air filter.

You don’t have to take it out; I have removed the dash with the binnacle still in place. Fiddly but absolutely yes.

We are up against a well supported group with the ramblers etc who seem to be more motivated to have the lanes closed than we are at trying to keep them open. To be honest TRW put us and Glass to shame when it comes to fighting to keep them open. Most users of byways drive them without ever knowing there names. Please do not accuse me of fraud or anything else if you don't mind. I am a responsible user of rights of way for something in the reign of 15 years and know the lanes in Wiltshire very well. I get involved with keeping them open for all and there correct use.

With this sort of thing it’s as many names as you can get to prove usage. I have helped with a lot of justification for lanes in Wiltshire. I have the forms at home to fill in so I didn't print out the one found by following the links. A pre printed form smacks of mass production; I normally get everyone I know who owns a 4x4 to fill in the paperwork. If you don't want me to submit a form - no problem

can you provide more info like grid ref start and finish, I'm not familiar with this lane. The form requires this info. regards

Everyone wants a bit more than they already have.. With a TD5 you are lucky there is loads of power to be had without paying the price in reliability Look at this web site. http://www.swindon4x4.co.uk/def_disco_td5.htm gives you an idea what can be done, there are loads on the market.

White smoke means water. If he had an intercooler fitted he would have increased the fuelling, take the intercooler out and it would blow out loads of black smoke from un-burnt fuel.

hear hear.. he asked a question its not our role to judge him.

A little bit more to Westerns reply Light steering could be a number of things. Pre-tension on the power steering box – adjusted by the nut / grub screw / Alan key in the top. Pan Hard rod bushes worn – get someone to wobble the steering and you will feel any ware – it should not move at all - replace Track rod ends worn – get some one to wobble the steering while you hold each ball joint in turn to check for ware – any movement - replace Swivel tension lose Tyre pressure to high - check

I know you can increase boost pressure and increase the fuelling which will give it a bit more umph, to much though and it will fail the MOT. I don’t know how to do it but I’m sure I have seen something in this forum about it.

hi love the logo what colour are the Hoodies?

The biggest bang per buck on TD5’s is to have it re-chipped. Chips tend to come in around £400 to £500 There are loads of thing you can do and I'm sure there will be loads of post but the easest and biggest return is to re-chip.

It really is a fiddly job. I would Use Genuine seal kit the genuine ones are easer to fit than the paten ones

Hi I have the proof of vehicular use paperwork for submission to the local authority. If you will supply specifics like lane name, start and stop grid reference I will fill one in and either send it you or direct to the local rights of way officer. Mark

I was only trying to help. I was told sometime ago that the diffs were a different ratio. Thank you very much for so kindly pointing out the error of my suggestion. Noted. !

Whine in the diff is usually to do with the crown wheel and pinion not meshing properly due to ware or incorrect adjustment. One way to check is to get hold of some engineers blue and paint the crown wheel gear face when you tern the diff there should be an even contact mark on the teeth. There have been a few posts within this forum on how to set a diff up. Though to be honest I tried to do it myself once and ended up with a diff that wined more than my Ex and I couldn’t be bothered to mess around any more and fitted another one, job done.

Yikes ! every branch of the ugly tree as it fell out. Earth is full go home.

The round ball is the vacuum reservoir for things like cruse control and when you turn on the air con it operates a flap which closes of the incoming air from the rams in the decker panel. You can remove it if you don’t want these toys. I removed mine along with the air con unit etc. The fuel tank in the rear wing can’t be removed all that easily. Smile. It makes people wonder what you're up to.

The pump for the front and rear washer jets are the same, if you have head lamp washers that pump is a lot bigger. As woody said swap the two pumps over to confirm it’s the pump and not the switch. the pumps are just pushed into the washer bottle through a rubber washer.