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My god.. I use to manage a Bearmach shop and GKN CV joints were no where near £300.. That’s just nuts. I would say less than a third of that. Do you have a Bearmach near you?

GKN are genuine fitment.. Aftermarket one's can be suspect in quality. Where ever you get it from make sure its Genuine.. Paddocks, Craddocks will supply Genuine - GKN, Timkin etc if you ask.

Yes I would replace the joint - no question. If your planning to keep the truck fit a GKN one

http://shop.difflock.com/land-rover-spanner-plain-p-33.html http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/RANGE_ROVER_to_1985/Axle/Hub_nut_spanner_%28_for_use_with_bar%29.html every tool box should have one. You can even get one for Air tools.. !

It's interesting that you say you have had success with beads running around within the tyres to help balance tyres. Okay it's not entirely the same thing but when I converted my P38 to LPG with the tank where the spare wheel use to go, I contacted puncturesafe.co.uk about their product, seems to have received good reviews. So I invested in the stuff and carefully pored the blue goo into my wheels. Caused all sorts of trouble! Had to have the front wheels washed out to have the wheels rebalanced as the blue goo evidently highlighted an existing balance problem. I still have problems with the liquid running around within the wheel causing the wheel to feel like its bouncing or wobbling. To the point I'm going to wash the stuff out and just carry a few bottles of some sort of puncher repair in a bottle. Could it be that I have problems else where or is it really the blue goo that is causing the problems?

Agree with K88 MUD no problem at all though if you do the same with the rear propshaft just remember to put the nuts on the drum brake or your may get to see it over take you when it comes off. I carry a load of washes to pack out the nuts on the hand brake when I go away for a long trip just for that reason.

I have a classic 3.9 and a 4.0 P38 both on Gas. The classic (open loop system) generally does 1 or 2 MPG less on gas than it does on petrol. Just had my LPG serviced and averaging 18 to 19 mpg which I was very pleased about, though it really did need a service. The P38’s are never as good as classic’s for LPG economy I tend to average 18mpg (best ever 23mpg) on petrol and 14 to 15 mpg on gas. The on board average MPG in my P38 is a little optimistic I always trip them myself. Its well worth getting the LPG system serviced and tuned the filters do clog up. Closed loop systems are being updated all the time so it could well worth having the software checked for the latest release.

To be honest I would go find a local breaker and get a second hand one. Look for one that is dirty but dry. Unless you buy a reconditioned box from a local land rover parts dealership where you will have some warranty I wouldn’t risk it. The seals do ware the shaft and just replacing the seals generally last for a few months of use and your back to where you started. A proper recon box done properly will cost you about £250 but should last. I brought a supposedly reconditioned box (jet wash and a lick of black paint) and it leaked more than the one I took of. Doesn’t matter what vehicle the box comes off all 4 bolt box’s are the same. Loads of threads about changing them in the forum, Most advice is around the drop arm which can become so attached to the power steering box that your never get it off.

Any photo’s of the ride height with the coil springs fitted? I have seen a couple of P38’s on coil springs and they look high like they are permanently set in off road position

Now that is a good question and thinking about it I do believe your right however reading you question again. 24 spline rear axle would most defiantly be fitted with ABS. Though not all 3.9’s have 24 spline diff’s etc.. Somewhere around some late 1992’s, 1993 – 1994 have 24 spline depends what was in the parts bin when they were put together My 3.9 1992 has ABS and 10 spline.

I don’t believe there are any differences between the axles. The ABS sensors are in the hub picking of the CV joint in the front and a ring gear behind the disk at the rear.

or this diagram.pdf

This should do the trick

Yes the drop arm can weld itself on but not all the time.. I have taken them off before worth a try if you're having trouble with the ball joint. The job is much easer if you can get the arm off.

You could have an air leak. Check the hosing too and from the intercooler

RED NECK's - closer then you think. Things that make you say Oh My God

No problem at all. I’m a bit of a self confessed Range Rover nut.

Actually your wrong the early L322 had a BMW engine taken from the 7 series BMW it was later replaced with the Jaguar engine you mentioned. 2005 saw the introduction of the Jag engine. If you remember BMW once owned Land Rover.

You havn't said what the Disco is doing to the gallon Bit more info required

All depends on whether you can weld or not I suppose Take it to a garage and you will have to take your donor card with to drop off and arm and leg. It’s all reparable. Patching and copious amounts of waxoil inside and out would keep you going for a year or two but once the tin worm has got hold the only way for a permanent repair is to cut it out and replace with good steel.

Brake fluid from bell housing yup slave cylinder

I would say a Range Rover Classic door release catch (the bit you pull to get out) Will do the trick nicely. Cheers Mark

Discovery I panhard rod bushes ANR4310 Fits discovery 200 TDI and 300 TDI plus range Rover Classic Discovery II panhard rod bushes RBX101340 Hope this helps Mark

you got it.. lock to lock.

Hard to fit? Depends on whether you have the relevant brackets on the axles and chassis to fit them. If you have the brackets and the parts no not at all Your have to pick them up second hand as new ones are stupid price. Does your 90 really lean at really alarming angles?