jeremy996

This is going to sound very much like swinging the lamp, but when I was taught to drive a 4x4 by the Army in 1981, we were expected to brake sufficiently on snow and pea gravel to build up a mound in front of the wheels. The "wedge" aided the stop and kept everything stable. ABS would make a mess of that idea, (the wedge would never form), so ABS was seen as a problem for snow, sand and small gravel. Now on ice that won't be possible, so ABS allowing you to steer is perhaps the most help. I remember one of the braking engineers for Land Rover giving a presentation at MIRA, explaining that the Terrain Response settings for ABS varied for surfaces but that braking on sheet ice was limited by the lack of friction. He also said that a well trained driver could out-brake the ABS on ice and loose surfaces, but that a bad or average driver was much, much safer and more consistent with ABS!

I have a 110 CSW with a two tank conversion and i use 2400l per year. The last time I bought new oil it was from Macro at £18.75 for 20l, this was GM soya oil and burnt fine. Usually I run on filtered WVO from a client of mine, www.cookingoilsolutions.com, this costs 80p a litre usually collected as 10 x 20l containers once a month. All of the relevant information is on the HMRC website and has not changed. http://customs.hmrc....cument#P13_1612 http://customs.hmrc....tyType=document (see section 4.2.1) It is not easy to read but it is there; less than 2500l would make you an exempt producer, so you need to keep volume records for 6 years, but not much else.

My current App is NavFree, which is free and works OK. In my case "What do you want for nothing?"

Targets for the Wolf table presumably?

Got mine this morning. Ta very much! To be worn very shortly.

I have just renewed with NFU, but only after getting an excellent quote from Academy. My experience with the other regular "specialist" insurers was NOT good. From the various quotes and discussions I deduce that I am insurance poison with an old vehicle, 1989, that is too valuable, £14,000, used too much, 20,000 miles per annum, 11,000 for business use, and too many seats, 12! My only virtues are lots of no claims bonus and advancing age. Academy were only a little cheaper than NFU and did not offer the ability for me to wander into the office and ask stupid questions. My NFU local office tries really hard, so I will try to support them.

Do you have a time scale on pedal boxes yet? I am conscious that my 110 is all too easy to get into and being a 200Tdi, all too easy to start without full electrics. A price would be helpful too. How much is it to get Thatcham approval these days?

Spent a rather soggy day marshaling for the 2012 Classic CiCLE Race around Melton Mowbray and Rutland, 200ish pedal cyclists and a mixture of closed public roads and muddy tracks. The appalling weather made the times slow and a flood in Wissendine meant that the race was shortened significantly. The pictures shows us collecting together and signing on at the start of the meeting at Catmos College in Rutland. There were a lot of Discos and Defenders there!

Looks like the Royal Marines just off Plymouth; one of my ex-colleagues did that and complained that as he was shorter than the average, he was in more danger than the Land Rover!

I voted maybe; not helpful but I would look for other things. How well does he look after his own kit? Is he normally careful with his own stuff or his employers? Do they know it's not just a "thing" but something you have sweated blood over? I've lent stuff from spanners to cars and it's usually gone very well. The exceptions have been minor, a missing spanner and a scratch on a trailer, but the best have been great. I lent a Vauxhall Vectra estate to a junior member of staff so he and his girlfriend could go for a long weekend in France. He paid for the additional insurance cover, which wasn't cheap but it came back clean, polished and with a full tank of fuel unasked. I lent my Morgan 4/4 to people we knew but weren't friends as their wedding car. We are now. We had a battered beige Austin Metro 1.3 we would lend to quite a few people over 21, where they were desperate for a car, (unless you WERE desperate you would not drive a beige metro!), and it always came back with more fuel in it than before. Most people are good natured, there are not many sociopaths, but the damage they can do can be devastating. Having said that, I won't be lending the Land Rover unsupervised just yet; it's still MY new toy! (Although others have driven it in France and on a gentle pay & play).

Please, please Sir, I want one soon! X - Clude X - Terminate How about X-Terminate Feet for the pedal locker, X-Terminate Gears for the gear lever lock and X-Terminate Goo for the lockable valve? My son is a Dr Who fan, can you tell? I have the really thick moulded acoustic mats in my 110, can I glue the mat on top of the pedal box locker? (Cutting it will be an absolute XXXX, but needs must. I have spent the equivalent of a new Fiat 500 rebuilding my 110, so I would be devastated if some toad stole it).

I have a twin tank conversion and usually run on WVO, (and start-up diesel). I had an empty diesel tank, 110 CSW, and 200l of filtered WVO. Our local Sainsburys was 143.9p per litre, so I've bought £30, which should last me to next month.

I am still using the mechanical lift pump after the fuel solenoids but immediately before the injection unit. (200Tdi). http://web.mac.com/jeremyedwards996/Site/Land_Rover_Pics.html#280 The electric pump for each fuel circuit, switched by the control box sounds more elegant, but too complex for me. If I kill too many lift pumps, I'll have to revisit that idea.

I have the full twin tank conversion and I have been buying filtered WVO at 75p a litre. I'm told its about to go up to 80p again, so I'll have to introduce them to some more collection sources, www.cookingoilsolutions.com. When it got really cold I went to SVO bought from Macro at about £1 a litre, as the WVO was turning to jelly. So far, about 12,000 miles from the rebuild and the fuel conversion, I have had one lift pump self-distruct. I now have a spare in the truck permanently.

There are better jammers about, but access to them is pretty much security forces only, unless you are a radio boffin. GSM can be jammed accidentally with all kinds of household equipment, so I still believe that the VHF systems are more secure. In terms of Bang to Buck, that cheap GSM tracker has certainly earned its corn!

I used an underseat 90 military tank from Bearmach. This was a pattern part and has been mounted lower and backwards as a 110 CSW has a few extra bits in the way! I have no idea if there are any such tanks left. The final result works fine, it was just hassle to get it there. Pictures and write up at Http://web.mac.com/jeremyedwards996/

I currently have an oil-tight 1989 110 CSW, but that is after a 3 1/2 year rebuild. A week after going back on the road one of the swivel seals failed and deposited most of the swivel grease on the block paving! My drive is clearly marked! That said, my 1972 Morgan 4/4 and 1989 Eunos Roadster leave little messages of their own. The Eunos' message is change the diff as the input seal is dead; the Morgan's message is the rings and valve seals of the crossflow engine have been destroyed by 100,000+ miles, so the plastic oil separator has failed and leaking down the side of the block.

I've just spent too much time and too much money on rebuilding my 1989 110 CSW to probably better than new, so I am not in the market for a new Defender, but that concept does not sell me a vision in any way. I am looking for the motor vehicle equivalent of a swiss army knife and I believe that I have found it; it takes two cars, a 1972 Morgan 4/4 and a 1989 Land Rover 110 CSW; posh enough for any occasion, scruffy enough not to cause excessive jealousy, suitable for summer, winter, spring floods and autumn winds, collecting maiden aunt from station or mistress from love nest, taking stuff to the tip, collecting the christmas tree and touring Southern Europe. I don't want a technological tour-de-force or a fashion statement, I want a large, classless vehicle that can do almost anything at a low cost per mile on a "dust to dust" basis; not something that is almost designed to self-distruct one month after the warranty ends. I certainly don't want anything where I have to take the body off to change the engine or some ancillaries; if it cannot be done in a domestic garage with hand tools and a basic code reader or laptop, I don't need it. Please JLR, design a better Defender, not a better trinket; you won't sell many and they'll be very expensive as you need to design in durability and ease of maintenance, but they'll be around in 100 years, when the Toyota Prius and Lexus Hybrids will be no more than a distant memory or perhaps a vehicle on a plinth; my SVO 110/defender impostor could still be earning it's keep as a working vehicle.

Inside Disneyland Paris as a stage prop in the Aladdin part of Adventureland. I'll be there in the middle of October, so if you see a bright blue 110 CSW in the car park it's me! Does mine count? A scruffy green and white 110 CSW has become a blue Defender replica, with galv' chassis and SVO kit, (200Tdi engine, TD5 roof, later gearbox, early defender wiring loom etc.).

I have a La Salle headliner in my 110 rebuild. It wasn't easy to put in but it is cheaper and more hardwearing than a new LR one. Use to date doesn't enable me to comment on the insulation properties, (only managed 65 miles before the rear diff went pop), but noise wise it's fine. All in all, I'd recommend it.

1990 Eunos Roadster, (Japan market MX-5), Cat C £460 eBay, +£41 VIC and £40 MOT = daily driver for the next few weeks and a sale mid summer, while LR110 CSW is finished off. None of the Land Rover bits I've got off eBay have been a bargain; essential often, (doors etc in a fit state for rebuild), but never a bargain!

I can tell you what I have done, not whether it works as my LR is not back on the road yet! I have left the original diesel tank in place and added a Series III military under-seat tank for the SVO. First and biggest problem is what can you find you can actually buy? I have a Bearmach pattern tank, but I understand they had very few in stock and no one else admitted to having anything. My under-seat tank Anything under-seat is going to be a pain for you to refuel, so I think you are going to have to look at one of the more boutique tanks, with emphasis on how are you going to refill it once/twice/three times a week.