zardos

Probably they are over quoting the horse power of the motor as you cannot really run a 3hp motor from a 13Amp Plug. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/elctrical-motor-full-load-current-d_1499.html quotes more like 17Amp is required. I tried running my 3HP compressor from a 13Amp plug and it would just about run, after a couple of starts the 13Amp fuse would blow (as start load is a bit higher)

I suggest email the factory then , even then if they answer then I don't think you will get an accurate answer as they have probably not measured or calculate all the possible combinations of engine/gearbox/tyres and I suspect that quite often the Top Speed is like the MPG figures they give (e.g. with wing mirrors removed, etc) Even if they have measured it then it will probably have been done somewhere like Millbrook banked circuit which is only neutral steer at 100mph, so the measured top speed needs to be fudged to accommodate for the steering input needed to keep in on the road above 100mph.

Most of the guides that give the top speed tend to only list one top speed value for a particular model then it is going to be very difficult to get an accurate table of this data as you don't know which tyre size / type was used for this top speed value. For Example my Disco 2 has 4 different factory tyre sizes (according to owners handbook) that differ in diameter by up to 1.23% in diameter It also has 3 different models of tyre which will have different rolling resistances (the current A - G rating can be as much as 7.5% difference), the difference in rolling resistance will affect the top speed. So the single top speed is probably on a single size/type of tyre (could be best/worst/random) or an average. Also thinking about it more going the gear ratio route to the values might not be accurate as well as it might not make top speed in top gear (I had a car in past where top speed was quoted as being in 4th gear, the 5th gear was more motorway cruise gear) I wonder what project this is relevant for? As in most countries the max speed limit is below max speed (except for some series vehicles and some roads in Germany) For most engineering workings I would think the just the max RPM or the max torque of the engine is probably more relevant .

Surely you can calculate at which / what RPM's the top speed is achievable given each engine/gearbox/tyre combo's with Ashcroft's gearbox calculator (http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/calc/ratio_calc.html)

Yes PoE is good, mine is PoE. A lot of cheap non PoE cameras have short non changeable power and video leads which mean you have to put a waterproof junction box very close to the camera. My camera actually came with a short power and Ethernet socket that entered the camera via a 2 cable moulded rubber bung, but it also came with a replacement rubber bung for just Ethernet. This meant it was easy to replace with a single longer Ethernet cable that did not require any waterproof junction boxes.

I checked about dashboard cameras and most places say you would be excluded due to which is the same section for personal CCTV (so might not be excluded) In the case which caused the change I think the person being filmed in a public place was a person committing a crime, so they were objecting and trying to get the video evidence made in admissible because the collection of the video did not comply with the DPA. But what is a narrow or wide interpretation I have no idea? (Just some judge without a clue I think) Given that ICO say "However, we recognise that individuals need time to adjust to these developments in the law. We do not propose to take action during the coming year against an individual for failing to register their use of domestic CCTV cameras following this judgement, except in exceptional cases. If the position changes we will update this guidance." I think they are probably not really going to bother chasing an personal DPA infringements. So say "**** off" might be OK, just don't rely on the video being admissible as evidence if you don't comply. (The police might be able to use it to help gather other evidence/target their other enquires though)

I was thinking about the change in the DPA interpretation because of the court case. Would this now mean that anybody with a mobile phone or camera or one of these dashboard cameras would now be subject to DPA if taking pictures in a public place? What makes these cameras different in their ability to record and store personal information to a CCTV camera?

Yes my additional light source is Infra Red, http://www.amazon.co.uk/DBPOWER-Infrared-Illuminator-Camera-Adapter/dp/B00AART2P2/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top Not actually tried testing range as my camera is pointing quite sharply down and so is the light and not tested recognition capabilities. But the IR flood light was a big improvement over the camera IR LEDs

I hope you have registered yourself with ICO to comply with the Data protection Act, CCTV recording of public property was a bit of a gray area on if you need to register as an individual (See https://ico.org.uk/for-the-public/cctv/%C2'> for old details ) BUT I believe there was a court case recent which clarified this, meaning you MUST register under the Data protection Act even if as an individual if your CCTV image covers any part of public property.

A couple of years ago I tried a few camera setups out. The Swann many other analog camera bundles you see around were all based on the same piece of Chinese built hardware and software, just in a different box with different branding on the software and all were useless. The crashed a lot when asked to do more than one camera at full resolution and being analog the quality of the video was very bad. So I would stay away from anything analog based including stuff claiming 1080p as it tended to be 1080p at 15 frames per second for 1 camera, adding a second camera would mean the frame rate would drop. The sensor (CCD) is a digital device, having to turn the signal in to analogue for transmission and then back to digital for recording just lowers the quality of the picture and capabilities. Therefore I went for IP CCTV system because you can get megapixel cameras that do the digital encoding on board and then send out a digital video stream (or record it in the camera itself). This has a much clearer picture The other point I found that applies to both types of system is that motion triggered recording was not very useful, you would always wanted to see a bit more of what happened before or after the event and all system seemed to have a limited pre event buffer and a limited event recording time. I found it much better to set it to record 24x7 and then send single frame pictures of the motion event as these would give you an idea of what was happening and then you could go and get as much pre/post event video as you needed Also for night time recording a separate Infra Red light source is better than the ones with LEDS around the camera lens (very difficult to not get LEDS around the lens but you can usually just turn them off). The reason for this is 2 fold. 1) the LEDS around the lens tended to always bleed/reflect light in to camera, washing out the edges of the picture. 2) the LEDS would attract Insects to the lens at night, triggering motion events and then a spider will take up residence to capture the attracted insects, triggering more motion events day and night and the spider would attract birds during the day, triggering more motion events I ended up with a decent IP CCTV camera from https://www.use-ip.co.uk/ and NAS to store everything on.

My double beadlock wheels do nothing to prevent things getting to the valve, hence a tube and bung. (you probably meant Beadlock rings, which is only one method of bead locking)

I have also seen just metal valves used or you can get flush mount valves (some options) http://www.mistertee.co.uk/10.html

Tube with plastic bung to stop dirt and stuff filling it up, plus it stops twigs still attacking it. From Artoffroad (https://artoffroad.wordpress.com/)

I use Glyn Lewis bracket on my V8 for a second alternator to connect to just a single (very large battery) with a second warning light bulb for the second alternator. Only one alternator actually charges the battery at any one time due to the low charge current that a battery will accept, but it kicks in when the winches pull large currents.

I like the keep it simple approach 2 batteries and 2 alternators all connected together, less components to fail and in many years of winch challenge competitions with up to 5 winch motors to run the only failure I had is a failure I had was an isolator failure in a 2 motor winch when it melted a bit so the contact stopped contacting (was rated at 2500A for 5seconds or 250A continuous) I've never run out of battery power or had the engine stop because of a flat battery. With a split charge type system or isolating a battery when winching you are just adding components that can fail because the are not rated high enough for winch loads or removing capacity from the system. The likelihood of ever draining a 2 batteries and 2 alternators to a point you could not restart a hot engine is so low that it is not worth the extra complexity and capacity reduction.

Or I think they are standard connectors for screen washers http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/info_RS635.html

A Freelander item looks similar (also list for TVR 4.3 engine) and cheap at about £35 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/THROTTLE-POSITION-SENSOR-FORD-EUROPE-GRANADA-LANDROVER-MG-F-ROVER-111-19935-/261144967999?hash=item3ccd73fb3f or even cheaper is http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-RANGE-PORSCHE-911-BOXSTER-THROTTLE-POSITION-SENSOR-/321728107522?fits=Car+Make%3ALand+Rover&hash=item4ae87d5402 at £9.99 and is said to match lots of Landrover V8's Seems match the right connector Type for ERR4278 (if not it should be easy to get a plug to fit and change the connector)

And as a side note, don't try and take the Xs PowerPack on a plane as it exceeds the 100wh and 160wh limits

Interestingly you have to really dig to find the capacity of the Noco one on the site http://www.geniuschargers.com/boost/ it states 24Wh = 2000mAh compared to the XS PowerPack of 18000mAh

I don't think you can beat http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/0-703-80-heavy-duty-crimp-tool-for-cable-terminals-10mm2-to-120mm2-1015.html for quality of crimps, but not cheap.

So given you stated goal I would go with Wiring diagram 1 (no x-charge relay, just parallel batteries for more power). If you do want to future proof it now (instead of changing it when you add a fridge), you can do diagram 2 with x-charge but put a manual high current bypass cable between the 2 battery positives with a isolator switch (250A), so they can be joined without going through the lower capacity X-xharge which might also disconnect when the system is under high load) It is probably also wise to put the extra lights via the Aux FuseBoard off the Aux Battery as this is something you might want to run without engine running. Example diagram below When winching use the manual isolator to join the batteries

It depends on your goal, more power for things like winches or to stop things like fridges from flattening your start battery. The goal was not stated. The first wiring diagram was good for the goal of more power for winches. The second diagram looks wrong, as the aux battery has no function (in a normal split charge system the aux battery would have it's own fuse box for the fridge and other things you want to run when the engine is not running) Think of the following scenarios 1. Engine running, alternator is producing 14.4v (not sure why the x-charge is wired to the alternator when it could be wired to the + busbar as this would also see 14.4v from alternator, but it makes no difference) The x-charge would connect the aux battery to main battery to charge (so all good) 2. Engine not running alternator is not producing 14.4v so the volt at the alternator + terminal will be at 12V so the x-charge as a voltage sensitive relay would not connect the aux battery, it would be isolated with nothing connected) The only fusebox shown is connected to the main battery therefore any load would flatten that. After drawing so much load for things like fridges and stuff, the main battery could not have enough charge to start the engine and thus turn the alternator to generate enough voltage to connect the fully charged aux battery. Stating which of the 2 goals you want would help draw a correct diagram.

Actually being that Gwyn's brackets are powder coated they tend to have a very poor earth to the block, so it makes sense to has a short large earth earth wire from alternator body to the block. But I do agree that relays are not needed

1. From a google Warn XD9000i seems to have solenoids mounted in bridge using multiple (4) on/off solenoids, not a single mono block design like this albright DC88 copy. So I would say that it is unlikely for a mono block design to fit in the existing location as the mono blocks tend to be taller. Would it mount somewhere else , possibly depending on cable lengths 2. It looks like it has the right electrical design for a winch solenoid. As it says "switching current" then 250A then using normal terms is the maximum it can current that can be switched by the contacts safely, the albright DC88 can break a 800A current (as there is no current flowing before the contact is made so the switch on to off (break) is more important) It does not state the thermal or continuous load the solenoid can handle then it is difficult to say how long it would handle the maximum load, but I would want a solenoid that could break contacts at the maximum load of a winch motor (so switching current of at least 500A) Note that the much used albright DC88 is rated at 100Amps continuously or 500Amps for about 30 seconds Note that a winch motor only uses enough current to pull the required load and is quite often way below maximum. So to summaries it looks a bit below what I would call suitable electrical requirements, but it would function up to a point. 3. Yes, but you will have some left over wires or have to do some different wiring to normal mono block solenoids as from memory the warn hand held switch also switches the earth wire, where the normal wiring for mono blocks solenoids do not switch the earth wire, so when converting most people don't the earth switching feature of the handset. Overall you get what you pay for a DC88 will cost you about $100 compared to the $39 but you get detailed specifications and it seems a higher electrical spec and all major winch sellers in the UK tend to use it. My main concern is the below 500A switching current (you really want to be able to stop a winch when under high load to be safe)

Used http://furneauxriddall.com/ for lots of 70mm^2 , very good and flexible Is cheaper than vehicle-wiring-product Or the manufacture of the stuff I used is http://www.batt.co.uk/ while they don't have online shop they do have branches around the UK