zardos

If you look at suppliers http://www.furneauxriddall.com/acatalog/Single-Core-Thinwall-Cable---10mm---30M-Reel-TW10.html 70Amps http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/980/70-amp-10mm-sq-80-0-40 70Amps So 70Amps is the norm for 10mm^2 cable

Having the Fans independent of the ECU can be an advantage is some configurations. On one of my V8's I had the fans wired independent of the ignition switch, which meant they would continue to run after engine shutdown, to keep air moving over the block (and cool the water in the rad more). Which was useful for it's cooling and not so easy to do with ECU controlled fans.

"welded solenoids" are where the powerful electric current used by winches has heated the terminals of the solenoid so much that they melt together (when welding the high current is intentionally used to melt the welding material and metal together, hence the term ). Solution is to replace the solenoids, but if you are in a jam when they weld then a sharp blow with a hammer to the solenoid might free them temporarily (if the have welded once the will probably weld again), but it might also destroy the solenoid but you have nothing really to loose when in a jam.

http://www.partex-direct.co.uk/Terminals/Crimp-Terminals/Female-Push-Ons/BF8008VR-Blue-Female-PushOn

I have my EDIS, ECU and relays and Fuses in an IP67 box with no problems (mounted on metal back plate)

What noise? Sound's like you need a quieter compressor you say, sorry you need to SHOUT Try a Hydrovane compressor, I have a HV-02 3hp Single phase that has a FAD of 7.9cfm (or about 12 CFM equivalent of piston compressor) that has a noise level of 62 dBA with no enclosure (that's quieter than normal speech at 3ft)

Range Rover classic 3.5 (except for the last year), NTC2589 I think, like the one I use and like the Nas one. On Ebay for about £56 (plus shipping) from germany http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Luftfilter-und-Halterung-Air-Cleaner-Assembly-NTC2589-Range-Rover-Classic-3-5-V8-/221621400784 Just don't buy new http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/164966/0/body_assy___air_cleaner

I have something like http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/30FT-10M-AUTO-RETRACTABLE-AIR-HOSE-REEL-30-FT-AIRLINE-3-8-FOR-GARAGE-BODY-SHOP-/231502755051?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35e6a3b4eb which is fairly bendable. My brother has a nice bendable corded air hose but don't know what it is. Or just look for something with a good bend radius like may be http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/S106550MY_10mm_OD_x_6_5mm_ID_Polyurethane_Anti-Spatter_Tube_50mtr__Yellow_-86441-p or http://www.hoseworld.com/acatalog/001a.pdf

Probably the spring clip in the rotor arm as seen

For this was answered recently in http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=93269 Allbright solenoids can draw up to about 3Amps in worst case scenarios

Sounds like you are OK with planning permission regards to drainage, but you might want to think about drainage to stop run off water flooding your house

The link I gave is about water run off not whether is is permanent or not. Concrete slabs with water draining off your property requires planning permission if over 5m sq (unless the slabs are special porous type), if they drain on to your own land then planning permission is not required.

Have you thought about if planning permission is required? If using concrete slabs you might require planning permission as they won't be porous and depending of the lay of the land (http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/permission/commonprojects/pavingfrontgarden/ )

The standard v8 thermostat is set for 82c so no point having it lower, they usually recommend to be at least 5C about thermostat temp. The data on the Viscus fan suggest that it's control range is 85 to 100 deg C I run the standard X-eng switch which is 88 degrees C and off at 83 and then 92 and off at 87 for second fan I think that a cutoff of 77C would be too low as is would cause the thermostat to start to close before the fan goes off. Not sure why you have such a large range.

well 12000lb winch and snatch block would reduce the Amps require for a given pull load by a factor of about 2.6 over a 9000lb winch without snatch block. But still does not reduce the max possible current draw (just increase the load need to reach it) By the way are you sure you mean Nylon? not Dyneema? If you really mean Nylon rope, then your rope will probably break a long time before you will trip any circuit breakers (a quick look says you would need about a 25mm diameter rope of nylon to match 11mm of Dyneema)

So on my 3 winches I just have manual isolators no circuit breakers, as the possible current load could be as high as theoretical 1000Amps for one winch So Given that most winch motors are rated to draw up to around 500Amps then if you want to get the max out the the winch then this is the level of protection you should aim for. BUT you should take in to consideration the size of the wire used to connect the winch, it is common to use 35mm squared cable which usually has a constant current rating around 240Amps under normal cooling conditions (but it will take a higher load for shorter periods of time) In the past I've not seen any suitable single circuit breakers, but a google today shows http://www.ebay.com/itm/300-AMP-12V-DC-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-REPLACE-FUSE-300A-12VDC-CAR-AUDIO-STEREO-300AMP-/280633585070 So may be 1 x the 250Amp version if you feel the need for circuit protection and want to protected within the constant current rating of the weakest component. or If you are like many winch users, using the thermal buffer of the components then protect against a load around the max expected load e.g. 2 x 250Amp circuit breakers would be OK. (What I mean by thermal buffer is that 35mm2 wire is rated to carry 240Amps constantly, this means the heat generated by the load minus the heat dissipation of the cable stabilises at a temperature lower than the melting point of the cable/insulation, this temperature that it stabilise at take time to reach, you can draw more for a shorter period of time before it hits this temperature, but you can only do for so long before you have to let it cool or reduce the load and as winch power loads tend to peak for short period of times this is acceptable as long as you are aware that you will need to rest the winch when it is using a lot of power)

The detailed specs look of the circuit breaker look slightly better but still very under rated for the winch. I would run 3/4 of these in parallel to give you the right load protection for the winch otherwise at some point you might find yourself stuck and the circuit breaker is tripping out. With the type of circuit breaker you describe with parallel ones you can at least manually trigger some of the multiple number to give you selectable load protection, so you could run most of the time at 100Amps but can easily increase the capability if needed (of course if you are really stuck with just one circuit breaker then you could re-wire in time of need to bypass it) The reason I suggest this is that a long time ago I bought a vehicle with a winch and hidden in the wiring was a bunch of auto resetting circuit breakers rated in total to 120Amp, when winching up a about 45degree hill with good going it just cut out half way up (the reason was the load had increase due to the number of wraps of rope on the drum). I then had the fun of securing the vehicle so I could re-rig with a double line pull, which is not always easy and takes time. After that the first thing I did was remove the circuit breakers when I found them.

Was the car on flat hard ground, or in mud or up a hill or did you have the foot on the brakes? If just on flat ground then the effort the winch would need would be minimal with the brakes applied. I would expect a winch to pull the car along with the brakes on, on anything but tarmac.

The 85Amp CB probably has welded itself shut :-) as winch motors can draw up to 440Amps (http://www.warn.com/truck/winches/src/M1200.shtml) , OK given that you have a 12000Lb so the gearing is lower so power per Lb will be lower, but Warn state that it takes 67Amps just to do a no load line spool then 85Amps is far too low.

My guess from there descriptions of the coil types they would be Intermittent (INT): Up to 70% duty cycle, up to 15 minutes continuous or possibly Highly Intermittent (HO): Up to 25% duty cycle, up to 3 minutes continuous energisation I don't think companies that order these go for Prolonged (PO): Up to 90% duty cycle, up to 54 minutes continuous energisation or Continuous (CO): 100% duty cycle. Continuous operation. An Intermittent (INT): Up to 70% duty cycle, up to 15 minutes continuous coil type would put the current at more like 1.6Amps But unfortunately the coil type is probably encoded in the second number of the model number e.g. DC88-276P from Devon 4x4 http://www.devon4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=7&category_id=127&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=14 (the P part means Protected to IP66 Compliance, an L would mean Large contact tips) The higher wattage of the range is probably the initial power need to oppose the return spring and move the contactor, the low wattage is probably the sustained power usage which just needs to oppose the return spring.

Given the specs of a DC88 (http://www.albrightinternational.com/files/downloads/catalogues/DC88P-1000.pdf) It says the coil power dissipation will between 7 and 30 watts depending on the exact model Thus using the worst case power figure would give a current of 2.5Amps at 12V but as we know that while winching it is possible for the voltage to drop, so on the safe side lets say 30W / 10v = 3 Amps

If you want a longer / larger belt then you can get a 20mm x 520mm version instead of the 10mm x 330mm (black and decker is 13mm x 455mm) (probably still has better access than the power file)

I looked at a powerfile but I went with a cheap from the bay Neilsen branded one and used it lots with no problems. The main reason for going air was the are much smaller than the powerfile so easier to get in to places that a sanding flat wheel on a small grinder cannot get, especially as you can adjust the angle of the finger. One downside is that it can get quite colder to hold with prolonged use.

So on my V8 90 (non megasquirt) uses a Range Rover airbox like With the trumpet side shortened and snorkel pipe attached (trumpet side on left hand side as you look at the engine) The pipe does a U from the plenum to airbox on the bulk head would have to adapter the output side as this normally clips to the air flow meter but I think Nige as a part for that. On on my megasquirt V8 in use a 3" generic air box like

I did something similar when spraying my garden fence, the safety valve hole was the perfect for a PCL connector to screw in, Connected up airline and turned the reg down to under the rated pressure for the container so it had a constant air supply. It sprayed the fence in no time with no hard graft of pumping it up every few minutes :-)