zardos

Capacity is not the main factor in the size of engine it can start but the current it is capable of generating (the limiting factor is probably the amount of heat the battery can safely dissipate without exploding). 8000mAh vs 7500mAh is a minor difference when 8000mAh is 8Amps for 1 hour or 480Amps for a minute But is does not state at what voltage this capacity is? My guess the capacity is actually for 6V and the pack contains 2 x 6V 4000mAh battery packs which are connected in parallel for USB supply (regulated down to 5V) And then connected in series to give you 12V for car starting Lidl state 200A @ 12V is the current which is the Engine size limit I did look at bigger Li-Ion for car starting and for off grid USB power BUT they were too big a capacity (contained too much Lithium) to be taken on an airplane which made them less useful.

So I went with a prefab garage with Pent roof of corrugated sheet roofing. These have a very shallow pitch enabling me to stay under 2.5m but still get 2.25 usable height. The most restricting factor was the door which had to be barn doors at 2.25m because there was no room for a roller shutter or up and over. I was able to get my external roll caged lifted 90 on 35" tires in it. The lowest part of the Pent design is over the work bench area at the back of the garage and if the landrover is parked nose first over the much lower bonnet.

Given that 12v 50w halogens are usually rated at 1200-1500 lumens the 340lm on the led ones will mean they will be less bright, try and match the lumen values not the power.

84913A is the Manufacturer part number there was an 84913 for the same vehicle (May be the A means amened?) Differences in this number can mean just an updated fuel map was factory loaded

I think Gammel translates from various languages (Danish, Norwegian,.. ) as "Old" https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/gammel

I have an adafruit feather https://www.adafruit.com/categories/830 the M0 with wifi and oled shield ,its a bit more power and storage in a smaller package than most. Arduino is very good for analogue stuff compared to the Raspberry Pi

So I ran a 3.9v8 in my Defender with a twin electric fans with no problem with over heating at idle or under competition conditions (high load, very low speed) (except when I filled the fins with lots of Mud) It use ESR76 which is a 90/110 HD Petrol/Diesel/V8 rad. It was a manual with no aircon but it also has an oil to water doughnut cooler. One thing I note is that the Rad look to be Aluminium, cooper material has better heat properties But you can construct more efficient designs in aluminium, so overall there can be no difference on well designed and constructed Rads. have you removed all the hoses and checked for de-lamination as that can block the flow of water. Other possible solutions Some people have mounted cheap I think Mondeo single electric fans to Landrover Rad, may be you can add a pusher fan to help the normally puller fans. or A lot of heat is radiated by the engine and exhaust in to the engine bay some say that removing the rear bonnet seal helps hot air escape. or Put less heat in the engine bay by having the manifolds ceramic coated (expensive I believe) or add a bonnet fan http://www.kenlowe.com/Ventilation.php (but can spoil the look) or Cut holes in bonnet edge at rear or louvres (I think HFH did these to help solve his cooling problem) (but can spoil the look) I noticed the thread is similar to http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=56553

The policeman or court might have a different opinion on whether is was safe, just because you saying it is safe does not hold much weight against industry recommendations (unless you are qualified expert in this area). The law says (as I listed) some things that are open to interpretation, it is not written in to law that it is safe to tow 3.5 ton behind a discovery (it is within one on the numerous rules that apply) I'm not saying it is against the law either, just one of the many things to consider. I must admit that it would be a very very slow day for a policemen to stop you for this, it is more likely to be used as a get out clause by insurers or used as additional arguments if you have done something else wrong (like caused an accident) or got the wobble on (which is more likely as the weight of the trailer approaches the tow vehicle)

So you have to:- 1) Drive a combination within you Driving License Limits 2) Drive a combination within what the Manufacturers say it is capable of (include nose weight on tow ball) 3) Not Drive dangerously or without due care and attention 4) Drive a vehicle that is safe and road worthy So that 85% rule goes with item 3/4 on the list, it is bit of a grey area as What is driving dangerously?. I think it has been argued that a professional body in the related area (The caravan club) has stated that it can be dangerous to drive with a trailer/caravan that is over 85% the weight of the vehicle. How that holds up in court I don't know. I think the 85% rule was decided upon to give you some leeway from the towed vehicle being over 100% without actually having to weigh everything. I would think that towing a vehicle that is over 100% of the vehicle doing the towing is more likely to be a problem if stopped. You could then argue what about articulated lorries, what they are towing is over 100% of the vehicle towing it, but I guess they would argue that they have an active braking system making it less dangerous. So to sum up a trailer over 85% the weight of the vehicle could be a grey area with the police and probably your insurers as well and if over 100% it would be even harder to argue that it is OK.

A set of http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STANLEY-192762-1-92-762-Compartment-Organiser-Tool-Box-141016-/121476022368?hash=item1c48890060:g:5kgAAOSwXshWqxvd portable so that you can take to the job. The main part was labelling each compartment, easy to find the right size and easy to see when getting low to re-order.

If you get to the point of them threatening legal action, you could also try offering to go to a mediation service first might be cheaper a list of mediation services at http://civilmediation.justice.gov.uk/

You could try a free mediation service before trying the small claims court. You can also talk to CAB before making a claim

Also in court It could be very difficult to prove that it failed so quickly, he could say that you fitted it when you got it and done many miles before failure. It could also be very difficult to prove that it was fitted correctly. You might need to get a qualified professional to disassemble it and inspection to determine reason for failure which could be costly and no guarantee that answer would be one you would like.

New price but some people want that for used http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hydrovane-502-Receiver-Mounted-Vane-Compressor-100Litre-230v-Singe-Phase-/272267203219?hash=item3f6463d293:g:nkoAAOSwvg9XVy4Y Mine came was used in a University Lab and was spotless and well maintained (It was sold because it was not used enough)

I picked up an 8.2 FAD CFM (which is about the same as a 12 CFM displacement compressor) Hydrovane 502 with 100l tank for £395 second hand. It's been great but new ones are spendy

I used mine to look at clutch release bearing without taking the gearbox off.

I would say the rattle gun part of the noise for air vs electric is likely to be the same. So that leaves the compressor, so get a Hydrovane compressor, they are very quiet.

I've had a USB inspection camera (You use a laptop screen to view and can take stills) for some time, works fairly well the only real problem is the LED's around the camera tend to produce a lot of glare even though the brightness is adjustable

So the classic you get what you pay for And when some providers are offering Broadband for Free (well not actually Free as you have to take their over inflated line rental, which is where all there broadband margin is at nearly twice the wholesale cost of line rental) you probably don't get the best service. I personally pay a lot of money for a top end Virgin Media package but I think I get value for Money as I get over the stated bandwidth it's fairly stable and it enables me to WFH - My VPN connection can achieve rates close to the purchased bandwidth (this cannot be improved by caching but might be prioritised and my frequent multiple way Skype video calls are also OK)

May be just easier to unplug / disconnect her computer when you want to play then.

So instead of break dancing tanks you get buffering netflix. Suggest upgrade to Fibre to cabinet or much better Cable (if you can)

So semi scientific The Nut should be 108-132 lb/ft. I believe A 26 inch long torque wrench is rated to 250lb/ft so 125lb/ft should be achievable with half that length OR As Torque = Force X distance So given your weight just standing on the right length bar would produce the right torque or you could try pressing on a bathroom scales to measure the force your grunts produce :-)

Also back on topic http://www.ingersollrandproducts.com/am-en/solutions/garage-solutions/maximum-impact-enewsletter/tool-tips/tool-tip-air-compressor-impact-on-a-tools-performance is a guide to air tool performance and illustrates about how performance can drop due to pipe size and contections.

That equation works well for DC current calculations but not well for AC current calculations where you have to factor in the Power Factor for the inductive load. http://electrical.theiet.org/wiring-matters/18/power-factor.cfm?type=pdf A quick search shows a average single phase motor will have a Power factor of around 0.7 But a note that the power factor can be improved with the correctly sized run capacitor (if fitted) So really it is a complicated calculation based on many factors, so the straight listing of HP to Amps probably is on the conservative side and probably assumes no run capacitor. As a side note, a neighbour had on very old 2hp compressor and it started blowing a 13Amp fuse as it built up pressure. I suggested replacing the 2 capacitors (one run and one start) as it was a cheap attempt of a fix instead of replacing the motor / whole compressor. Replacing the very old capacitors did solve the problem and it would run on a 13Amp fuse (which you would expect for a 2HP motor)

A good article on displacement CFM which piston compressors always quote and free air CFM http://www.airsupplies.co.uk/cfm-explained