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The short answer is that just wiring 2.1 amp and 1amp outlets together is unlikely to work as the adaptors are a bit more complex than batteries. Have you checked the output spec of the tablets normal wall charger? USB 2.0 Battery Charging Spec max current is 5A (but most don't go this high as the cable cannot usually take this much and most only go up to 2.5A If the tablet is an i Thing then it might not be doing USB standard for power signalling so it would need a specific car adaptor. Also you might want to use a high quality and short USB cable and as with a high current draw on a long cable might mean the voltage drop takes it below 4.75v which is out of spec (See that https://www.adafruit.com/product/1994 actually supply 5.25V for this reason) When looking at a USB power supply for another project, this ebay item looked good https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DEOK-12V-5V-Buck-Converter-Step-Down-SR-Adjustable-Module-DC-8-22V-to-1-15V-3A-V/282849858874?hash=item41db2a553a:g:K6MAAOSw-YFahezD (as it can also be tweaked to 5.2v output and should handle most needs - though I have not tested this) I could then also use good quality wire and easier to make water tight connections as the bulky usb plug can be wired on after being passed through a suitable gland)

There is of course some fairly cheap ways of improving traction when you know you are in trouble on wet grass before you get stuck. You can let out some air from the tires, this increases their grip footprint BUT don't let out too much otherwise the tire might come off the rim especially when turning the wheel. You would of course need a portable compressor to pump them back up before driving on a public highway. This method does have drawbacks and risks because you would probably not want to go below 20psi on a normal road wheel and it is very time consuming and still might not be enough to help. Edit: I came across this https://www.landrover.co.uk/ownership/4x4-off-road-driving-tips/off-road/sand-driving.html Land Rover suggest 15PSI (Sand is another low traction surface like wet grass)

In the past I used http://www.superwinch.co.uk/index.asp for a source of parts as the are the main distributor in the UK. Give them a call.

You would be using momentary switches instead of physical latching switches, the latching ( become fixed in a particular state ) would be handled by the software in the central unit. e.g. First button press (sends +12v impulse signal) turns the output on, with the switch returns to 0v signal after the finger was removed Second button press (also sends +12v impulse signal) and turns output off Thus state of the switch is independent of the state of the output and therefore any activation by a remote does need to affect the switches state (which is a default of always off)

Just don't expect to be able to take it on a plane as a large USB power source (was thinking of getting one for this purpose), as it is too large to be allowed.

I seem to remember reading somewhere that a lot of modern car now have flat beams as standard. I guess it removes a cost of having left or right hand drive versions or having to include mechanics for switching. Also https://www.mot-testing.service.gov.uk/documents/manuals/m4s01000801.htm Says Flat beams are OK for the MOT

I had the same problem and went with a remote oil filter I used a sandwich plate with top cover https://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/On_line_shop_Take_off_plates_for_remote_filters_39.html I think it was the TOPO1C model (But I would check with Think Automotive - note the PC1 model does not work with 3.9's) And then something like RFH3A or RFH3B from https://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/On_line_shop_Remote_oil_filters_40.html (again check with Think auto to make sure it meets your needs) Plus some appropriate pipe and connections This takes up 60mm to the centre of the top hat nut with the outside edge being less

I've used a 2 post with a number of landrover and not had any problems I've not used a 4 post but as I see it:- A 2 post gives great access to the underside, easy to drop axles off etc But the downside is that for some things have the suspension at full droop makes things difficult and for some things having a cross beam jack would be handy. But a 2 post with a good selection of very large axle stands and hydraulic supports can negate the downsides of a 2 post. If you have watched Wheeler Dealers then I believe that Edd has always used a 2 post with hydraulic supports (even when they have done Landrovers)

Probably a typo from Nige or the seller (or the seller lying because a bigger number is better for sales) As most horns of this type quote 149/150 Db

Just waiting for Nige to go

We also fitted some to our bus for this same reason, but I would fit them as a separate horn switch or have a disabled switch so you can use the normal horns without the air horns. Also watch out I have seen drivers temporarily loose control when they are startled by the horn.

Big Kahooners Diff Kit

locker tab locker++ crown tab crown locking leaf

or a more local link https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/bulbs/auction-1439286853.htm

Option 7 Get a tacho known to work with the IDM signal ? Option 8 Build a raspberry Pi dash to show Turner Studio gauges ? (I seem to remember somebody has done this here already)

That's a good shout but not managed to find any yet. Again hoseworld do this http://www.hoseworld.com/acatalog/GALVANISED_STEEL_EXHAUST_HOSE.html

I found http://www.hoseworld.com/ very helpful when I wanted some more specialist hose, give them a call.

I like this better https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adjustable-Converter-Regulator-Step-down-Regulating/dp/B00SKP2IJ8/ as it has a nice case/heatsink

And I learn more about electronics by watching https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwJYIorz_Aw

Very useful find and if you want it quicker than delivery from Hong Kong, next day from Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/Converter-1-25-30V-Charging-Voltage-Regulator/dp/B00IR883G0/ at a slightly higher price Edited: Again as original was only a boost

Plagiarising parts of others The LR is leaning back because we are laid back (relaxed) here where as forward leaning represents speed

Thanks for clarification of Unit, so yes Amps. I had another idea, that has lower cost and is much smaller in size but has a limited life (that life could be around 1200 engine starts, which at twice a day is over 1.5 years) This would use an A23 non rechargeable 12V battery to power the gauge during crank (they are about 50mAh in capacity so could in theory run the gauge for about 1 hour of cranking before it would need to be replaced) It would need a second diode to stop it being charged by the car battery/alternator (yes the diode is not perfect so will be a very very small charging affect on this non rechargeable battery of around 0.001mA, but I don't expect this level to damage the non rechargeable A23 battery) Since you can get 2 x A23 batteries for £1.62 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Energizer-Alkaline-Batteries-LRV08-GP23A/dp/B002YOWPHG/ and a battery holder https://www.amazon.co.uk/SODIAL-TM-Battery-Holder-Black/dp/B00DFQQWC6/ for £1.26 This keeps the cost and size down at the cost of needing the battery to be replaced at some point (I was not able to find a rechargeable version of the A23 battery) Other alternatives:- If you ignition switch has an accessory output (as somebody mentioned before) that is not powered during crank and the gauges ignition switched input is from this then during crank the gauge would actually be switched off and thus a much smaller capacitor could be used .e.g the 100uF I referenced should be enough. Open up the gauge and add a diode and capacitor in the right part of the circuit for just the memory (very very difficult to do and could damage the gauge)

Yes confirmation of the unit of the 0.05 number you gave would be good but as Will said the multimeter was connected in series the it is likely to be Amp's or milliamps. If it's 0.05 Amps then this gauge would be similar to my example gauge I linked previously (that was 10v minimum and 0.046Amps) The diode specs looks fine (if a little over spec'd) https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/ds30135.pdf It is a 5A Schottky Diode rated to 100v, at 0.05A the voltage drop is going to be about 0.25v according to the datasheet (much better than 40% loss the useful voltage range of a 1N4148 and around the figure rtbarton suggested) So plugging 11.75v to above 10v with a 240 Ohm load (for 0.05A) for a 3 second crank to the formula HoSS quoted or entering the numbers in to a QUCS simulation suggests you would need about a 0.08 F capacitor The nearest suitable from a quick search was http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/5437003/ which is not small or cheap Lets hope the unit was milliamps not Amps as 0.05 milliamps would need a 100uF capacitor e.g http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/5194059/ at 21p Alternatives if 0.05Amps? As I first suggested http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/lead-acid-rechargeable-batteries/6867253/ and diode might be better, it's around the same size as the capacitor but half the price at it has a much shallower voltage drop profile and a much higher charge storage capacity. But this still sucks You say that the boost gauge next to it shares the same feed and earth (is that gauge a similar model/manufacturer?) and it does not show the same problems? Have you swapped the feed and earth wires, may be there is a bad joint from where they must split at some point? Another solution might be to put an extra switch on the ignition feed, so the gauges are not powered when cranking and then can be manually switched on after cranking has stopped. This might solve the problem or make is so that the capacitor need to retain the memory would be cheap and small, as you have seen that it is below your measurement range. Again this sucks a bit Buy a new gauge that only has one colour of green?

From the length of the coupling it is probably 1/4" Euro adaptor (very similar to a standard PCL but shorter) As for what is best, that is a difficult question, really the connector with the largest bore would be best (like the PCL 100 series https://www.pclairtechnology.com/products/couplings-adaptors/genuine-pcl-couplings/100-series-adaptors/ ) for best performance. But probably the right answer is probably the adaptor type that is mostly likely to come with the tools you buy (e.g 1/4" Euro Lidl and Aldi tend to use the 1/4" Euro adaptor - Aldi have a special on for air tools https://www.aldi.co.uk/c/specialbuys/dates/2017-09-24?q=%3Apopular&page=1 and Lidl have just had some air tools on offer ) I personally use standard PCL as that came with the compressor I have. For air lines I believe on this forum that people have used standard 15mm heating copper pipe for hard lines but I have a retractable reel (as Aldi are currently selling) that covers the whole garage and more. Oil separators/filters are to remove oil from the air as the moving parts in a compressor are usually lubricated and for applications like paint spraying or medical use it's desirable not to have oil in the air. Though I have done DIY spraying without an oil separator and it comes out OK. May be you are thinking of auto oiler and water separators more commonly used, again for low volume use you can probably get away with direct oiling in to the tools. I cannot really comment on if you need a water separator as the compressor design I use is quite different to the one you bought, but I find the amount of water in the air is very little. Which brings me on to top tips:- Drain the tank regularly to remove the water that accumulates at the bottom of the tank, this keeps the amount of water in the air low and reduces the tank rusting and reduces problems of it freezing when stored in a cold garage. Wear Ear protection or build a sound insulated box if you are going to be using it lots (or get a Hydrovane compressor like I have) because piston compressors are noisy. Also my favourite air tool is a finger sander ( like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neilsen-CT1075-Belt-Sander-Finger/dp/B002A4GWEW ), while you can get electric ones of these they tend to be much bulkier than the air version and this is great for sanding in tight spots.

Do you have admin / moderator powers? As us normal users can only edit a post for a short period after posting and the original post was way past that time limit when you first posted. And it's not just my posts you have failed to read properly. And yes I do edit posts to correct typo's and re-word things but usually that is straight after I've posted them as I know there is a time limit on editing.