FridgeFreezer

Should the door open inwards or outwards?

Some relays are sealed from the factory if you look at the base.

The RAVE manual has all the wire colours in nice pictures even if some of them won't exactly apply to your age of vehicle, most of the main stuff remained the same from Series onwards. Also, most of the connectors are where they need to be and will only plug into certain things, especially the multi-plugs.

I've seen a pic or two crop up over the years but I happened across a thread on these today which linked to actual technical details and I thought they're cool enough to be of interest here. A Paris-Dakar Rally Rolls-Royce Rides Again - The Seventies-era Corniche that competed in the 1981 edition of the desert endurance event takes another turn in the sand. WTF Friday: Off Road In Style I think my lottery-win project list just got another entry

Create a YouTube account and embed them (literally copy & paste the YT link into a post)

You might be surprised - some of these places they actually skip a generation or two of technology and get with the times very quickly. Like a lot of them never had a land-line phone or internet but everyone's got a smartphone now, or how a lot of them never had bank accounts but now they all use P2P electronic payment on their phone. You might find that they never get mains electric but local solar/wind pops up and EV's become the first and "default" motor vehicle.

For the old V8's I've stashed in the shed I bought a can of laying up oil / fogging oil, pulled all the plugs and gave 'em a good dose down the bores and any other open orifice plus a light dusting all over to prevent surface corrosion. Then stuffed rags in all the holes to keep the spiders out.

All electricity generation causes damage, but you need to look at the alternatives - coal puts out more toxic waste than nuclear for example - and would you rather have wind turbines & a solar farm or a bl**dy great power station built near your house? There's undoubtedly problems with anything short of living in a cave, so take your pick. I reckon wind & solar are pretty low impact overall although I have a feeling nuclear still works out cleanest and safest if you run the numbers.

MS2 is only a plug-in on the MS1 board replacing the CPU with a slightly faster / more modern one, MS1 isn't going to stop working or being supported, there's tens of thousands of them out there. Mine have been running for years, the one in the 109's been on it for over a decade and never missed a beat.

Try again now

You undo that nut holding the small piece of metal, remove the metal and the shaft can be pulled out - but the intermediate gears WILL fall into the transfer case and the shims will fall out so you need to open the transfer case to catch it.

RPR - I believe the ECU's for different engines/tunes had different part numbers not just different tune resistors, they don't hold the 3.5 AND 3.9 map in the same ECU. I agree with Bowie about looking at the AFM adjustment, I couldn't remember if there was any on the hotwire but as Bowie confirms there is, that will make the single biggest difference I would think. BTW, Megsquirt would reduce complexity - you can throw the AFM away and you don't need lambda sensor(s) if you don't want them - and it would give you a system you can tune, diagnose, and fix more easily.

https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/calc/ratio_calc.html

I think he's very much on the corporate coin when he's presenting some of these things and gives a less enthusiastic performance - the e-Type thing smacked strongly of being bought & paid for by JLR's PR department and kept just about interesting enough to be sold as a TV programme giving them some very sweet worldwide PR for probably not a lot of money. Bit like the new aircraft carrier documentary - very interesting, but absolutely clearly bought & paid for by the Navy / Govt as some good PR to instil national pride in the vastly over-budget things. The camera crew wouldn't have been allowed within a mile of it otherwise!

Given how much stick Land Rover got in the other thread for their "teasers" perhaps we need some here too. Either show us the stuff or STFU I say.

You're clearly a terrible judge of character

For reference, the standard non-insulated spade terminals with the locking tang are what fits those FL blocks, so easy to re-do it nicely. Same thing used on standard relay/fuse holders etc.

Well after it drops out of "warmup" past ~60deg or so it won't be doing nearly as much leaning off but we're into the weeds of bodgery here anyway you could do the same with the air temperature sensor in the AFM or indeed try to tweak the AFM bypass (if it has one?) or hang a resistor divider on the AFM output but it's all pretty nasty.

Modern cars run the air-con AND the heater to dehumidify the interior air too. I still think just ditching the stock heater and flinging an Eberspacer or Chinese copy in for £150 ish is the best bet, instant blast of properly hot air, and it can run with the engine off. Reckon you can duct one into the stock Defender heater hole quite easily.

When my dad worked at the courts he said it was quite common for people to be disqualified in court, walk out and get straight into a car only for the plod to arrest them as they left the car park and take them straight back in

If you can see a manufacturer's number on the seal or measure it you can buy a double-lipped seal from a bearing supplier like simplybearings.co.uk or bearingboys etc. There was a cross-reference somewhere (Teriann Wakemann's site?) of LR seals & bearings to generic parts.

I think physics applies to Radio 4 as well

I pulled all mine off a scrap freelander or two while I was pulling the twin engine fans (which fit beautifully on a V8 Defender rad BTW), no idea id they're available elsewhere - if you find a breakers on eBay they might post you a jiffy bag full if you ask?

You're risking stacking bodges on bodges here - you've got an ECU that's not right for that engine, with no feedback loop, and you're trying to fudge variables to pull it back into spec - even if you get it closer to right you've effectively put a blindfold on the ECU and lied to it so you won't be running anywhere near as well as you might. You can to some extent fudge it with adding a resistor (or two) into the coolant temp sensor circuit via a simple little switch which is slightly less nasty than tweaking the fuel pressure IMHO, make the ECU think it's hotter than it is. It's a lot cheaper than an adjustable FPR too. Ultimately though, you need to fuel it right - naturally I recommend going Megasquirt, MS1 is more than good enough for the RV8 and you can convert from 14CUX with minimal wiring tweaks if you're retaining the dizzy.

Knocking the FP down does risk going too lean at certain spots in the map, which is worse than being too rich. If it's just idling rich, well, they all do that sir