FridgeFreezer

It's like Halfords - "Oh you want an air freshener? What's the registration?"

Witness a lot of pickups & vans - independent front (usually from a car) and a beam rear with leaf springs.

And they're renowned for their handing

You're making a logical error there - lights do not operate at "constant power" so as the voltage goes up the current will increase, the 60W rating is nominal @12v not fixed. At ~14v the current will be ~5.8A per light taking you closer to 12A current. If you put 24v across it it would output a lot more than 60w, albeit for a shorter time TL;DR I'd use 1mmsq for all the feeds and 2mmsq for the grounds.

As Reb says, it's a very very easy job, easily DIY'd with minimal tools - a propshaft nut tool is a good investment (~£15) plus 8x new nylock nuts (pennies) all of which would be sold by any place selling the propshafts. Apart from that, a 9/16" spanner or 14mm at a push and you're away. Chock the wheels (no rear propshaft = no handbrake!), roll yourself underneath, undo 8 nuts, drop old propshaft, stick new one in, replace nuts, grease UJ's and sliding joint (grease gun) and you're done. Unless the old one is really damaged somehow, every chance it just needs new universal joints which start at ~£15/each for half decent ones and are another fairly easy DIY job. Picture of how it all goes together is here: https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-axles-suspension/propshafts/propshaft-rear_52612

Minimum 1mmsq. For added bonus, run a good black earth wire straight back to the battery -ve rather than just earthing through a load of crusty bodywork.

As others say, they started life as 110 HCPU / HD rolling chassis and Land Rover Special Vehicles chopped them & extended them.

I would uprate the wiring as a matter of course - it's old, it wasn't designed for the job you're asking it to do, and voltage drop in the wires could kill any gains you make. 100W bulbs are readily available because you can't police eBay and most of the time no-one notices or cares.

You misunderstand - the server ones are 12v only and don't have an ATX connector, the ones in your old desktop PC are a standard thing that has a bundle of wires coming out to the large plastic ATX connector and they give 3.3v, 5v, 12v, -5v at varying currents. That little one you posted is absolutely fine but you'll have to solder wires on to get the power out, and a little jumper to get it to turn on. I've got a couple like that myself, it's an easy mod. This is a standard PC ATX PSU as found in IT department scrap pile: The big connector is the ATX one, the smaller 4-pin ones have 5v, GND, 12v on them or just 12v & GND

Old PC or server PSU's wee all over anything else - I pulled a pile of Dell & HP server ones out of a skip, the smallest one does 12v 750W but 50A or more output isn't uncommon on the server ones. A big thread on them is here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1292514-How-to-convert-Server-Power-Supplies/page12 Most of them you just need to join two pins to turn them on. For standard issue PC power supplies you can get ATX breakout boards: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293395769738 That give you all the voltages on nice connectors and an on/off switch etc. Again, any old PC pulled from the pile will give you hundreds of watts for no money.

Buying advice has been done to death here, if you search back through this section you'll find 10+ threads with all the info. If MPG isn't an issue the V6's can be picked up for peanuts and honestly if they haven't exploded by now they're probably OK.

I guess I look at it from a software perspective - the more features / complexity you add, the more stuff there is to go wrong. The MS1 is so basic it's easily diagnosed and fixed by any idiot with a soldering iron, the MS2 and MS3 are less DIY friendly. Semi-sequential may not make that much difference - the only downfall of the default MS1 code is its time resolution due to the addition of PWM injector current limiting, but as most Rover V8's don't need that you can run the high-resolution code and achieve similar resolution to the MS2. I think a lot of people forget the HR code exists.

Why would parabolics make it too high?

I'd vote dodgy coil pack too.

They aren't central in the chassis because the propshaft has to come through, the whole engine & transmission sits to one side.

The basic lump etc. is the same, it's only a different intake, injectors, returnless fuel rail, coolant temperature sensor and details like that. Megasquirt will happily run either of them

I'd imagine you can pull it or thwack it out and then drill & tap to something like 1/4" BSP and just thread a barbed fitting in.

There's at least two different lengths of otherwise identical-looking clutch release bearings and getting them mixed up is very easy and can give either no clutch at all or permanently disengaged clutch, could be an easy fix. Also the all-metal ones are worth it, takes a lot more to melt them

Ed I think you're getting mixed up - the Bluepill boards are 5v powered / 3.3v logic with 5v tolerant IO. Also not aware of many/any micros which accept 12v natively without a power supply, in a nominal 12v car system you need to tolerate ~18v at a minimum with much larger spikes when the starter engages/disengages etc. Also I think adding micros to the pots is way overkill as you then have 4 lots of communications to handle rather than reading 4 analogue voltages which is far simpler - if you run all 3 wires to the pot from the controller you do away with many of the issues with interference / ground float etc. and ultimately I doubt it needs massive precision, the pots are unlikely to be better than 5% tolerance and noise can be filtered by averaging a lot of samples, you don't need to read 1000 samples/second off the ride height sensor and you don't need to make adjustments much faster than every few seconds unless you're trying to implement active cornering

£3 Tesco Value desk lamps with an LED bulb, still can't beat them - robust, cheap, posable, disposable! For under the car I'd wire a mains lead to a plastic sealed LED batten fitting, again they're cheap as chips from Screwfix etc., throw out a decent amount of light and are pretty robust.

Not done it but it's on my to-do list for the classic restoration.

Why do you care? Sequential has almost no benefit apart from emissions at idle, and firing at the back of a closed valve is actually beneficial, it cools the valve / charge, vaporises the fuel and allows it to swirl.

Reminds me...

Can you save dosh by running the cable yourself and just getting the spark to connect the ends? Or just get him to install a 2nd consumer unit next to the meter for "future use" and do the rest yourself?

My experience was they come up with all this stuff (on a regular basis) and then nothing actually changes at the coal-face... unless it gets worse!