FridgeFreezer

I've got a genuine LR one which is a compressor type rather than the cheapo "cool / heat" types. Runs for days on battery and has even managed to keep things frozen for the entire course of a (very very very hot) weekend. I think it's a rebranded one made by one of the manufacturers already mentioned in this thread.

I'm with Niall - PPC is a top mag, even if they have succumbed to "Vince Cobley Syndrome" with their "resident guru" Dave Walker, who sells Emerald ECU's. Strangely enough they have forgotten all about their very popular MSEFI installation guide sicne Mr Walker's column got bigger and a nice 1/2 page ad for Emerald appeared... Seems strange for a mag supposedly dedicated to doing things at minimum cost.

What about "Total World Of Enthusiastic Land Rover Ownership Monthly"

Just came across this: http://www.birfield.com/modules.php?name=A...5/msg00025.html Which mentions hydraulic driver superchargers, and reversing a PTO unit to give a hydraulicly driven underdrive The hydro underdrive sounds particularly cunning, although I'm guessing you'd be wanting something larger than the usual PAS pump to make any sort of progress

Your name isn't on the list in that link or indeed anywhere on the entire uni website - so says Google. Sorry if this is genuine but with the amount of spam out there at best it's perhaps ill-thought out. Why can't you make an online questionnaire rather than the to-and-fro e-mail?

I'm staying here, if I need a delve into the tech archive I'll look at the other site but it's gotten way too full of duplicate questions and answers, maybe here the mods can take a leaf from Pirate and be a bit more forceful in deleting things that have already been answered. Plus it's easier on the eyes

I'm sticking with paper ta: http://home.usadatanet.net/~jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm

You mean this article? B) I second the vote that capillary stats are pants with sick on, my kenlow one packed up really quick. I believe the MG Owners Club sell those solid-state fan switches but not sure if they're any better than Demon Thieves on price. The electronics in it are pennies, if anyone could be bothered to work out the circuit and pot it into a box it'd be a very robust solution and probably come in under £10. And no, I can't be bothered to work out the circuit as my ECU will run fans already

Isn't this what external cages are for?

What about calling this "The Other Forum" - like Glastonbury has "The Other Stage" - because that's what it always got called anyway! As for what's goin on, who's doing what, where, with who, and the price of fish - can someone draw me a diagram please?

You're rebuilding a Land Rover, the possibilities are endless If it's not a stupid question - are helicoils brake-fluid tight?

Here we're at about 92p/l ($1.70), on some motorway service stations it's 99p ($1.83) I make that about $6.50-$7 per US Gallon Time to start brewing bio-ethanol I think...

You can buy pressure test kits I think, not sure how pricey they are. I think most engine rebuilders can do crack tests / pressure tests.

Go to the scrapyard and find something that looks servicable and will fit or buy a genuine LR one - and then continue looking for a heater that actually works

720bhp and not a seatbelt in sight - I guess so you can jump free before hitting the tree!

Rather than superglue, what about glue-lined heatshrink?

Shiftech -The very best of luck to you & your engine. Personally I'm sticking to the advice of every tuning resource I've ever seen and some much cleverer people than myself (OK, not difficult) and running richer towards the top of the map. Niall - MS can cope with LPG at a number of levels. It can happily be switched off or have the injectors cut by an existing LPG install It can run switchable fuel maps if you can create a circuit to switch injectors It can run switchable ignition maps if you want it to run your ignition too It can run staged injectors so you can run on petrol and LPG at the same time not sure why, but you can if you want to! Without too much twiddling it could be made to start on petrol until the engine temperature reaches a certain point and then switch to LPG (in fact I've just worked out how to do this and it's really easy) It can add the other type of gas (NOS) 2-stage controller built in with auto fuelling & spark adjustment I'm sure there's other stuff with the V3 boards that are out but I've not played with one yet.

You mean it's not original factory spec?

I'd love to see your truck on a set of 205's, would look like a monster truck when they have to put the tiny wheels on 'em to get them on the trailer

Depends on the spec of the other truck, I'm guessing you're not going to be teaming with a stock Series on 205 AT's

Details are up now: Clicky!

That's a rather risky strategy. As I said, the only times you want to run that lean are under low/medium loads and RPM. Even the OE ECU's ignore the lambda sensors outside of these areas, and they wouldn't bother doing that unless there was good reason when they could get better economy figures by running closed loop all the time.

Not quite the right thing, but the local Cutprice (glorified 50p shop) sells small stretchy nets with bungee cord type hooks on the ends for £1.

I'd add that .5v is way too lean at idle for your engine, they like to idle quite rich. The only time the reading should be below about .65v is cruising / decelerating. Under heavy load, high rpm, and at idle, you want it richer than that. Remember narrowband lambda sensors are there for economy and emissions.

While you're there you may as well do a 3rd set of holes for Nitrous