FridgeFreezer

I got: Fairey PTO winch - £50 (thanks to Mr Warne for finding that, I take back almost everything I've said about his driving ) Range Rover air suspension compressors x4 - £20 " " " " valve block - £10 Another remote shift unit from an LT77 I think - £1.50 An electric water pump - £40 A defender binnacle and dials for Astro Al - £5 Defender V8 air filter (the f'in big one) - £5 A big sheet of 6mm plate from Dollythelw - £10 A flapjack from Fi - free! and yummy. So come on people, whaddayaget?

Here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=1314

I hesitate to mention the "M" word, but... it's less than £300 that's for damn sure. Go on Nige, do your worst!

TD or TDi? If TDi, 200 or 300? From a Defender or a Disco? No doubt Tonk will be along in a minute, he's done it more than once.

Eh wot who hey?

Ooop, meant to say/add: if you haven't got lockers you'll stop with a wheel spinning and that's where a shaft will break if it's going to. If you HAVE got lockers you'll get further and then break something else in a different fashion Another (perhaps unanswerable) question is how many breakages come from misuse of lockers, EG trying to turn with the front one in?

Not yet... might see if they are interested in advertising, I'm sure H would love a slice of their ad budget!

Al - now all I need is all your money

Rob - you're new to LR wiring aren't ya Jon - have a good look at red relays, some will be what you're after but it's not unknown to have relays, lights-on warning buzzers, heated screen timers, glow plug timers, and missing ECU components housed in little red "relays". Should mention wipers on it somewhere or at least have "timer" or a symbol of a wiper on it... then again, knowing LR maybe not

Yeah - wot Andy said. Don't worry - the forum gets a mention in the next newsletter

Hang the joystick upside-down with a weight on the handle and it'll keep the vehicle level at all times! OK it's of limited use, but would be interesting...

This made me spit tea over my keyboard

ROTFL That guy's more camp than a row of little pink tents!

What RPR said - if you haven't got lockers you'll stop with a wheel spinning and that's where a shaft will break if it's going to. Shock loads are hugely stressful on things compared to steadily applied pressure - that's why we all have hammers for removing rusted parts You can break anything if you try hard enough.

Now there's an answer to crime if ever I saw it - Police trucks! Being chased, shot at, etc. you perhaps stand a chance but against being hit by THAT? Who'd go a for a life of crime?

Tony, you forgot: 4.6 V8 = 280lb/ft 186kw / 250hp

The ones they squished were shells not "full" cars - still painful to watch though! The minis were real though - the A pillars cracked so they weren't worth bringing home.

The regulator IS the diode pack, innit?

TC, just for you: I know it's called an HS2.5 but it really is the 300TDi: http://www.nav-international.com.br/Motore...oma=2&Grafico=1

http://www.nav-international.com.br/Motore...oma=2&Grafico=1 (Aparrently 1 CV = 0.9863201652997627 HP) Just for comparison:

Oooo you know you want to:

Glad it worked! Electronic tachos work from the coil*, counting pulses as the coil fires. When you turn the ignition on you cause a pulse to the coil, which can make the tacho jump. I see the same thing on the MegaSquirt at switch-on, the needle jumps up to about 800 then drops. * = Before some (other) pedant points it out, some tachos work from the alternator W terminal and some work from the ECU. Also if you have the ignition amp under the coil there is a dedicated tach feed from that for the ECU / tacho.

A repaired trolley after last year

Why not have a pot for each wheel - hours of fun!

Bet you can still drive faster than Will though