John_T

Britannia Rescue. My wife and I have "personal cover" which means any vehicle we drive or are a passenger in. My step-daughter's car is also covered for free. So far service has been excellent.

There was a problem with the ECU on some early TD5s. It caused stalling and "kangerooing" problems and was the subject of a LR technical bulletin and warranty job. The cure was to fit a new ECU. As noted in the above pots the later versions did not suffer with this problem. You can check with LR to see if yours has been "done" under warranty. If not it is probably too late but worth a punt. John

Meanwhile.....just over the mountain from Zermatt.......... ...ah, pleasant memories!

....but I bet he will still get the blame!

I bet the guy who was doing the spotting was a popular as a pork chop at passover!

Peter, My TD5 manual does not give the figures. However, Iam told that the crownwheel and cap bolts are the same as for the TDi (unless you are talking about the 110 rear diff). The pinion bolt is 100 nm. John

As Wallace would say, "A Grand Day Out!". Thanks to James for his organization and to all for letting a new guy come with you. A few pics. First the mandatory cheesey Tarr Stepps photos. Tim takes it steady due to the lack of fondness the V8 has for dampness! Will makes more of a splash! I spent most of the day looking at the back of Will's truck. Here it is wobbling its way down Stone Lane. And finally, towards the end of the day it sort of went...well....white! Thanks again for a nice day! John

An Ipod......new fangled gadget with a 30 gig capacity and does photos and video.....must learn how to use it! plus some nice spanners, a dial gauge, Clarkson books, Python DVds, some pedal covers from D4x4 and a desktop train set...cool! John

Had a few minutes spare so fiited the kit. Dead easy when you are supplied with all you need. The orange box on the left is my answer to the TD5 split charge problem. You can't use the alternator warning light circuit so I used a Smartcom voltage sensing split charger. Not man enough (IMHO) to charge a battery but more than capable of powering the relay for the proper split charge system given the minute demand this places on it. It is fired up by an igniton source which happens to be the handily placed reverse light circuit.

Fried my split charge relay Wednesday, ordered a new proper set up from X-eng late Wednesday night, it arrived to-day! Nice one Simon.....comprehensive kit as well! Now I know what I can do Xmas day. John

Going back to your original question about Firstfour, all I can say is I have dealt with Peter Lamb before and he is top bloke who gives good service. However, where you get your bumper will be up to you. Winch bumper profile as raised in posts above is a good point. I went for a Scorpion extreme (non tubular) because apart from being one that my hydraulic winch would fit, it hardly sticks out at all.....very neat.

Right...interseting question! I had a heated screen retro fitted to my 1999 TD5. when I picked it up I noticed the electrical tags were at the bottom (3 of them - some are 2 apparently). I was later told they should be at the top and that the fitter had put it in upside down. This made no sense to me whatever as there was no wiring in the car for it and I did the wiring afterwards. So, given that the screen is of unifom shape i.e. can be fitted whichever way up, the controlling factor is where is the wiring? I can see that it could be hidden in the headlining and come down the door pillars but conversely this would not work on a soft top. After all this waffling I do not know what the answer to your question is but would ask you why you need to know as it seems to me the position of the wiring is the deciding factor not the car year. Unless of course you retro fit like me in which case it matters not a jot. I could of course be totally wrong.............

Thanks guys. All points taken on board and a plan is hatching.

Cobblers!!....just fried my split charge system causing the second battery to go flat! My winch is hydraulic so it wasn't that, maybe it doesn't like the amperage the TD5 alternator pushes out. I have just ordered a proper spilt charge kit from X-Eng but it won't be here till after Xmas....must remember to shut the manual isolator switch off in the meantime. My next plan is to fit a voltmeter to let me know if the second battery is getting a charge. I run things like the coolbox and kettle off the second battery. Is it best to use a small relay fired up by an ignition circuit to get it working or is there a better way bearing in mind I don't want it "live" all the time? When the system is charging and the batteries are linked what will the gauge tell me about the main battery? If I have got this idea round my neck has anyone a better idea of how to monitor the charge to auxiliary battery? Thanks

I got my TREs from Paddocks fitted with grease nipples.

I bought mine from QT Services. From what I remember at the time the prices were much of a muchness i.e. identical from whichever Sumo Bar agent you got them from. Nice bits of kit. Arguments will rage as to which are stronger (Sumo, Dan bars etc.) but the big advantage of Sumo bars is they do away with the time honoured problem of seized TREs and make track adjustment a doddle.

My experience with gas dampers is, yes as noted above they do give a better ride but also they do a lot more miles for your money without deterioration. I did 100k on a set of DeCarbons on my old Disco before I sold it and they were still giving a good ride.

Fine by me!

I am using Roxio 8. Its the puppies privates for what you want to do.....only one snag....its not free.

Tim, I will pop down and see you. John

The thing in Tim'slink is an angular gauge of which I have one. However, by the term "dial" type torque wrench I guess you mean the more expensive gauge with the clock type dial to tell you what torque you are applying. The alternative is the cheap bendy wire type torque wrench where the "bendy" wire points at the torque on a scale. The dial type is usually used for setting timing belt tension whereas the angular gauge is for things like head bolts. I have a bendy wire torque wrench as well as the angular gauge and am in Wellington if you want them. John

If newbies are allowed I would like to bid for a place on the trip on the 29th. John

Good point seeing as how my wife's car is a P reg 1997..........hmmm.........possibly a replacement alternator......or a batch of engines bound for the R reg Freelander production line....who can tell?!!!

When it comes to Allegros the real question is why did anyone ever buy one?....Van den Plas or not!!!!!!

I don't have a Freelander nor does my uncle's cat. However, I have worked on the 1.8 petrol engine and my wife has a Rover 420 which has the 2.0 L series diesel (it even has the "Land Rover" sticker on the alternator). Anyway, the point is I have been very impressed with the L series diesel in terms of performance and economy (now done 70k without missing a beat) and it is a great starter although I appreciate it has more work to do in a Freelander. I have recently replaced the cam belt and injector pump belt and have found that IMHO it is an easier motor to work on than the petrol and is a much better DIY proposition than the TD4 which may or may not be a consideration for you.