simonb

Nope should be clear in all ports. Thats why u have problems bleeding and expansion tank is cold, there should be a constant flow from both of these pipes in2 the tank. Take the hoses off rad and thermo end and check the stubs are clear. Remove from widget and blow through or carefully use a thin bit of wire, refit. With expansion tank lid off and 2000rpm, u should see coolant being squirted up on the underside of the top of the tank from where the hose from the widget joins the bottom of the tank. System will self bleed. If hose from expansion is blocked, air/bubbles will collect in the housing since its the highest bit. Thermostat won't be immersed and won't open properly leading to overheating.

Tdi disco, 1.2 ratio, Tdi defender, 1.4 ratio. 2.5 petrol defender 1.6 ratio. Can't remember what 2.5NA, 2.5 TD and V8 were. The info has been on here before, someone must know.. Or get the serial # and give Mr Ashcroft a ring....

Could also be the roof seam where the front section over the seats joins the rear section. Its the seam all the way across the roof just behind the drivers door. Mine did exactly what yours does, took ages to find, as the water runs along inside, first corner or apply the brakes and woosh, wet trousers! Seal with mastic and lay masking tape either side of the seam, then u can get a neat thin bead.

Bosch, stand by drivers wing, stare at inj pump, diaphragm its the flat housing with 4 bolts in each corner, near where the throttle cable attaches. Un bolt and check the rubber. Also check intercooler pipes aren't split, all the 5mm diameter black nylon boost control pipes are intact, lift pump is ok and throttle opens fully to end stop when foot is to floor on pedal - engine off for this test - throttle cable adjuster sometimes vibrates back restricting movement...

Clutch doesn't look worn to me as there are still the radial grooves on the friction material and its not down to the rivets. Even the spring fingers on the cover don't seem to be that badly grooved. Was it actually slipping? If it was just judddering it was probably the mount as you say. Excellent idea for the cable tie on the clutch arm, wish I had thought of that when i did my gearbox change......

Hmm, had the boost pipe pop out of the cr*p jubilee clip LR fit on the M3 the other day. Funny sound from turbo (300Tdi) and no oomph. Mines got a boost gauge fitted and I saw it drop to zero, so guessed it was a hose off. Just replaced the hose in the pics a few months back as well, was expecting the top intercooler one to have split. Took a few minutes in the twilight when i got home to find the small bore pipe was off, not helped by the fact its under the other hose and the turbo housing.

Should self bleed. Check the thin pipe from the top of the thermostat housing, the similar one from the rad and the t piece where they join is clear. Remove and blow through, also check the pipe from the t to the bottom of the expansion tank. With the expansion cap off, and engine revs at 2000rpm, you should see coolant from the latter pipe being squirted up to the underside of the top of the tank. Check also coolant level is correct when cold.

The Law allows them to read faster than u are going (by up2 10%?), but they are not allowed to read slower than u are going. Interestingly when i checked my series 3 against the GPS, it was spot on at 60mph.. Hence the 10%+2mph for speed cameras to take into account inaccurcies, if your caught exceeding a 30 limit you must have been doing more than 35mph, and your speedo if reading fast, maybe showing closer to 40mph...... if you do an indicated 30, chances are u may only doing about 25-27mph..

ok thats an earlier type, regulator is different but should be obvoius, the brush connections will go to it. The output winding goes to the diode pack which is a different part of the alt.

110 tank won't fit a 90 rear behind the axle. You need a late 300Tdi 90 rear or td5 tank (11 gallons i think). Will fit but you will probably have to cut and shut ur exhaust to fit round the tank. Alternatively WVA holdings do a 8 gallon tank that fits under the battery box on the passenger side. In LRO about 6 months ago i think Nene Overland had a similar tank and there was an article on it.

on most lucas ones its a plastic moulding attached to the back end cap secured with 2 screws, it takes up about a quarter of the back end, sure someone will post a pic on here. The brushes are integral to it, remove the screws and it will slide out, u can then clean the slip rings with meths. You shouldn't need to dismantle the alternator. If you have a 200/300Tdi lucas alt I can send u a reg for a tenner as I have several new ones.

Suspect the regulator has gone, check earths anyway, but a new regulator is about a tenner from a good auto electrcian.

The red version of hermetite disolves in methalyted spirits, try that...

Doh try reading the thread.. Thought you were on about the engine/rad oil cooler, not a gearbox one, but as mmg says, it shouldn't matter

Well... convention would say hot oil (highest pressure), in at the top and cold oil out the bottom. But, looking at the pipes on mine, the high pressure hose which is next to the oil pressure switch on the filter housing, goes to the bottom of the cooler and the top hose goes back to the low pressure side of the filter.

If they're not bolted together!!! R380 is easier as its more compact. LT230 is a right bl**dy s*d when ur lying on ur back under the chassis and trying to lift it on to the main box, not helped by the weight not being equally balanced....

1/2" BSP (British Standard Pipe), u need a parallel thread plug. You can find them in larger B&Q stores as well. Wading plugs are 1/4" BSP, while ur there......

Well a R380, LT230 and new clutch on a pallet from Ashcrofts said 100Kg on the courier packing slip when I got mine, LT77 is going to be about the same, so knock 5-10Kg off for the pallet...

The contact rating (amps) depends on ac or dc. On ac the arc will extinguish each time the voltage passes through zero (50 times a sec for uk mains), on dc the arc is more severe. As a result a relay which can switch ac or dc will have a lower rating on dc. Contact material is usually also different for an ac vs dc relay. So not a good idea to use a 12vdc relay to switch 240v ac. Now 10a@12vdc is 120w, which is only 0.5A at 240v ac... Not withstanding a car relay may not be insulated to 240v (mains relays usually have a 3mm contact gap for safety).. Look on the maplin or RS web page, there are plenty of relays with 12v coils that are designed to switch ac mains and they start at a few squid each.

yep either way will work, thermo switch contacts will last longer if u do it ur way as its only switching the relay rather than the full fan current it would normally. Relay will be cheaper to replace than thermo switch...

Better way of doing it would be to take the feed from the cut off solenoid (which is live all the time the ign is on and also when engine cranks) and feed that to a relay coil. Then take a +ve feed from alternator +ve or even the battery and put that through the relay contacts and then on to the fan thermal switch. The thermal switch is what will turn the fan on and off. I doubt if the solenoid feed connections at "the other" end are up to the current of the fan. Solenoid won't draw more than an amp nornally, whereas fan could be 20-30a.

Just undo jubilee clip where hose attaches to turbo inlet, pipe is flexible enough to wedge out of the way. Nothing else really in the way but might be an idea to remove bonnet stay and prop bonnet vertical with a long length of timber so that you get your "head in" and see whats going on - timber will stop the bonnet falling back on ur head

cellouse thinners will disolve it

The body of the switch either has 1 or 4 holes in it. The 4 hole one saves on the plumbing as one connection goes to the tank, one usually has a safety pressure vent, the 3rd has a pressure gauge on it and the 4th is blanked off - thats how my mains compressor one is plumbed up