simonb

Probably, but after 160K miles and 12 years, i bet they will leak when I put it back together again.... and you dont want damp balls... And of course on a 101 you cant remove the balls, same as a Salisbury front axle, as they are integral to the axle tube so the seal has to be split.

Would have thought it would be a right bu&&er to drill out in situ accurately. Suggest removing casting as Les says and do it on the bench. You should be able to get at all the bolts if the alternator is still attached. Then you can do the P gasket as well! I can confirm that the bottom mounting hole for the alternator is a clearance one, the thread is tapped into the casting, though IIRC there may be a thread insert in the alloy. Casting costs about £60 IIRC from when I needed one a few years back.

And my job this wknd is too sort out the swivel preload which I know is too loose..... Was going to strip it all down, but before doing that was going to see if I could get the axle/swivel bolts undone 1st before I started stripping the hub. When I did the other side a few years back they were a right barsteward to undo. Ironically my seals don't leak and my balls are perfect.. but once you start taking out the shims from the pins, the postion of the seal relative to the ball changes which then causes it to leak (well thats what happened on the other side). Did think about cutting the seal if I couldn't get the bolts off, so that's the other option, as recommended here you could say..

erm, if its a new recon, then shouldn't Bearmach be sorting it out or giving you a replacement???

If you have a 65amp alt, there is probably a W terminal under a rubber bung on the back. You need this, switched ign feed and an earth. Europa specialist parts do a suitable 50mm dia tacho. Its all been posted on here before. Set DIL swiches on tacho to give approx 750 rpm at idle. If no W terminal then its easy to add one, just connect a wire to one of the output winding "pairs" before it connects to the diodes - i'm sure someone has posted a pic on here of that...

Uses a vacuum pump for the servo driven off the old hole where the injection pump is on a 2.25 diesel, use genuine one or for a fraction of the price get one from a scrappy from a diesel Citroen ZX/mark 1 Pug 306 and make up a mount to drive it from alternator/PS belts

Duff diode pack and it may have blown the regulator as well. If its a 100a job its a bit of a pain to change, 65a versions are easier but still require a 40w soldering iron to do. Diodes aren't available on their own, the entire pack needs to be changed. If its the original, the bearings and brushes are likely to be on their last legs anyway.

erm i did, brain works quicker than the fingers...

Thats cos series 3 and 90/110 wheelarches are a different shape, series arches are not symmetrical front to back, 90/110 ones are...Not to mention the fixing flanges required for the spats..

Look up LKUS on the web, that will give you the nearest Lucas agent to you. I ordered an indiactor stork from DLS mailorder a few years back and it was a genuine LUCAS one in a LUCAS box

200Tdi boost is 0.85 IIRC, 300 is 1.05 bar. Before you go any further, with engine off, check full depression of throttle pedal gives full opening on injector pump. If not adjust cable locknut at pump end, NOT the stop on the pump. Adjuster sometimes vibrates back. You seemed to have checked all the normal, but a lift pump on the way out will give low power. 300Tdi wastegate actuators are available separately so I guess 200 ones are. Borrow or buy a boost gauge (about £30 from various, but try Europa specialist parts). Changing wastegate rod length will change boost but get a gauge 1st as increased boost rapidly raises EGT which risks melted pistons/valves and head gasket problems. Also throughly check intercooler hoses as they can split underneath. The 1st one on the turbo outlet is most prone to this.

You keep the big hub oil seal which is next to the wheel bearing. On front, remove stub axle and remove internal seal. Bearing is now lubricated by swivel oil (EP90) dont use the Land Rover swivel grease. At rear, remove stub axle and halfshaft, IIRC there is an oil seal at the end of the axle tube by the flange, remove this, if there is a seal in the stub axle (can't remember off top of head) remove that as well. Bearing now lubricated by diff oil. Extra volume in both cases is small, I would but some grease on the bearings whilst you have the hubs off the stub axles and then check diff and swivel levels after 100 miles or so.

A 300tdI defender stub axle has got a roller bearing and a brass bush thingy IIRC. Just pressed mine in by hand (and suitable drift/vice etc) when I did it a few years ago...

On a 90 300tdi, (without pdwa) one is parking brake, the P symbol, although there is also one marked "parking brake" which in typical LR fashion isn't used, and the other is the I symbol which is fluid loss. On mine this also illuminates when the handbrake is on, as well, as a bulb test. If it comes on at other times - potential brown trouser moment

Changed my ones at 110K miles but shouldn't have bothered. New ones made no difference to running or economy. Think LR says change Tdi ones at 60k miles but personally I wouldn't bother. Other people on here have run up higher mileages than that. NA/TD ones however could probably do with a service and recal if thats what you've got. Don't worry about a puff of smoke on starting. Smoke at full power can be reduced by tweaking the injection pump - see article on technical archive. Try also flushing the intercooler if it hasn't been done before. Don't bother with the LR genuine parts solvent. Use Gunk degreaser from Halfords. Leave it to drain afterwards in the sun for a few hours - in this heat the tubes will soon dry out.

300Tdi crank bolt 27mm (and its "fully" tight ) Wading plug holes bell housing and timing belt case 1/4" BSP, same for series 3 bell housing. 300Tdi rad and thermostat housing plastic plugs 1/2" BSP ( for both of the above, brass and iron plugs available from plumbers merchants and larger B&Qs)

Autoboxes have gears - epicyclics! The LT85 used engine oil as the lubricant (but separate from), as did Minis (shared with engine) - the BMC/Rover type not the modern thing! LT77 and R380 internal oilways for the bearings are not wide enough to cope with cold "gear oil". My mate had a 1 liter Suzuki SJ which if i didn't keep the idle high enough in cold weather would stall cos of the drag of the EP90 in the main and transfer boxes...

Think(....) its either blue/red or blue/black. Other side of the switch IIRC is blue/pink or blue/white. Basically any blue thickish wire with a tracer is main/dip lighting. This is common for all Rover vehicles. Someone will either prove me right or wrong...

New glow plugs are in. Checked on battery b4 fitting. Confirmed they are working in situ by watching voltmeter, when relay clunks off, volts go back up to 14v from cranking voltage. Smaller black "chuff" of smoke on starting than b4, seems initial idle after starting is less lumpy as well. Hopefully no more no starts, hadn't had any this wk since I found the plugs were duff last wknd - didn't even bother putting the wiring back on last Sat..

The oil cooler in a genuine Tdi rad is a concentric tube (about 30-40 mm dia) which the oil goes in (between the 2 walls of the tube)and the water goes through the middle of the tube...Surface area to water is actually quite large..

Not arrived yet, were dispatched 2day but i'm off to the Farnborough Airshow 2moz , so probably won't get round to it till the wknd. Bit too hot for spannering without any shade at the moment. The series 3 rebuild this wk only takes place between 7am and noon cos its too hot, but thats another story. No more no starts since last fri am - but in this heat its not surprising..

Well just got a set of Eblag as recomended by Western. We will all find out later in the wk. They might even reduce the puff of black smoke on starting its always had, since now the diesel should be combusting better on start up.

Aren't there signs saying there may be ordanance even on the BOATs and you should take care? Seem to remember seeing such signs last time I was up there.

yep I'm aware of that, what I meant was that I turn the key and it started before the plugs had a chance to warm - if they were working

Well of course on Sat morning it started 1st time.. Anyway here is what I found: Battery - nothing wrong with it, after prolonged cranking to do compression tests (see below) it was still turning engine over at full speed without difficulty. If it had a duff cell it would have been struggling by then. No load volts after all of that was still 13.1v so no problems there. Stop solenoid - firstly what a blinking faff! Grind down spanner to fit in silly lack of working space. Even have to remove terminal tag as it fouls as you undo the solenoid - more faff. Then don't drop plunger or spring taking it out, or putting it back in! Anyway slight wear on plunger - paint was slightly rubbed off, no swarf, and works ok on 12v. So thats gone back in - minus spring and plunger for the time being. Lift pump - Was going to hand prime if it didn't start, but it did, and had no no starts all wknd so left that for the moment. Compression Test - All over 300psi with a hot engine, with each cylinder tested by spinning engine on starter (did this before the stop solenoid). First stroke of piston gets pressure up to about 200psi, then rapidly builds to full compression. Glow plugs - took them out to test them and guess what, all duff! Resistance measurements were 2.5K, 1.2M, 1.2K and 2.2M, so on 12v thats not going to heat anything... By comparision the plugs in a Citroen ZX were a short cct ( but with the wiring still connected and the plugs in parallel). Battery test produced nothing from them at all. So a round of applause to all those who said glow plugs. But those of you who said a Tdi doesn't need them are also correct. I personally never waited for the light anyway and it has started all wknd and last wk apart from 3 mornings, without them. I suspect I may have only been running on one glow plug anyway for a while and that has probably now failed, which caused my 3 no starts. I also only ever just give it the briefest flick of the key, so if I gave it a bit longer I would have probably never noticed - not till winter anyway... So whats the verdict on new glow plugs, genuine Bosch (as whats fitted, they did do 160k miles, till they all failed) or pattern part? EPC lists genuine parts as £18 each ex vat - could always just fit 2 though