simonb

Another excellent thread Les, tell you what, if you keep on going on like this, workshop manuals will soon be redundant! For those of you who have some basic mechanical knowledge and tools but haven't yet plucked up the courage to do your own work, then take the plunge! You will save a fortune in garage costs and will have the satisfaction of knowing you have done the job correctely yourself. Its all fairly simple and if you get stuck, post a question on the forum. Someone will be along with the answer within hours. Les' articles are far more use to the beginners than some Land Rover magazines articles on servicing and upgrades. I note one of them is doing brake discs and shocks and springs for the nth time over the last year......

When i did my swivels last month, 1 hub seal was in back to front, the Haynes Defender wsm, shows them the correct way round in the sectioned diagram, yet the photograph of the hub removed shows it wrong way round..... Basically if you think how the seal is supposed to work ie keep the grease in, then the spring should be towards the lubricant side, ie how has Les has done it. Not surprised the old bearing howled a bit, can't have been far off seizing...

You need to count the pinion teeth as well to work out the ratio....

IIRC someone asked this not so long ago, and i think it can be done in situ. I'm sure Les or Western will be along soon with a clicky link..

Sometimes the blades cause it, cheap enough to swap them to see if it goes away, but its usually wear in the cable and wheelboxes. The former is fairly cheap and easy to cahnge but the later are a bit of a PITA to get out as the dash top rail has to come off. Not that difficult just time consuming. Changed my cable and wheelboxes 5 years ago as it was driving me mad and now the replacements have worn and have started doing it again.....

My 300Tdi 90 has taper bearings top and bottom, 24 spline shafts both end. I did the swivels a few days after Les posted his post. Front discs are solid unvented, IIRC 90 are unvented where as 110 are vented, more knowledgeable souls feel free to correct!

nope, same stuff despite different colours

Well was never conviced it was the glow plugs - 2 wks after fitting them, the no starts returned. Had fitted a new stop solenoid by then as well, so it wasn't that. Anyway decided to fit a new lift pump.... Touch wood, been fine since (over a month now), idle seems smoother as well. Starts no problems even if left for a few days with the fuel level down to the orange on the gauge. Guess the pump had a leaky valve and that combined with which part of the stroke it stopped on, allowed the fuel to run back to the tank, hence all the cranking to get it going.

You need a 9/16" ring spanner. Only 1 or best 2 bolt heads will be accessable at once. You need to jack 1 wheel off the ground and with handbrake released turn the prop so that the others are accessable. Either reapply the handbrake or the footbrake (get a helper) to lock the prop as you undo them. A normal socket wont fit in, but there is a special thin one combined with an extension bar that will.

Extension bit stays attached to the main box, see long stud bit above, if you have an engine crane support box from top thru seatbox, otherwise its a trolley/bottle jack from below and some sort of wooden cradle. Its heavy, main and transfer on a wooden pallet weigh almost 100kg. Transfer is heavier than the main, its at least 40kg...

Its either the hazard switch or the stalk, its not the flasher unit as its still needed for the hazards.

Can still run when its a tooth out. On the Tdis as part of the tensioning procedure you release the centre of the sprocket ( 3 bolts) so that the gear can rotate relative to the locked pump - or something like that, haven 't got the manual to hand, this very slightly "moves" the timing. On mine it was definetly smoother after the belt was changed. Like yours when I set it up with the pins and the old belt before removal, the IP pin wouldn't go in. It was only slightly out, less than 1 tooth.

Check all 4 propshaft UJs are ok and not seized, you may have to drop 1 end of ech shaft to check. Check also sliding joints are free. Also check all propshaft flange bolts are tight. Check transfer oil level, and check diff lock is disengaged. Do this by leaving 1 axle on ground, jack 1 wheel on other axle off ground. You should be able to rotate the jacked wheel by hand (transfer in gear, main in neutral). If you jack a rear wheel, take handbrake off to do the test. If you cant rotate wheel diff lock is in or u have a diff problem on the jacked axle. Jetwash/degrease underside of gearbox to clean crud off. When its cleanish, you will be able to see which seal is leaking by checking again after a drive.

V8 alternators tend to use different bearings to the tdi ones. Later V8 are 100a as standard where as tdi are 65a standard (on Defender), the bearings and design are competely different. Its a lot more difficult to take a 100a one apart as well, but not impossible...

Basically thats what I did last wknd with the 90, but took the stub axle off for a complete strip. What I didn't realise (learn something new every day) was that some coilers had Railko bushes, I thought they stopped with the series 3 and that all coilers had bearings top and bottom.

Look at Les' excellent write up on rebuilding a swivel. '4785 type seal is in the dismantled hub showing it resessed by 4mm and the outer "deflector" seal.

Thought they were interchangeable and the one with the deflector needs to be inserted so that its 4mm deep down the bore - like the other thread on the hub oil seals. IIRC there is enough space in the nose of the diff to put the seal in deeper. Replaced the diff seal on my series 3 a few months back and think the seal for that was of a similar design, and i didn't swap flanges. Think its marked on the edge of the seal like the hub ones.

Having just fitted a '4785.. It efectively a triple seal with a further dust shield. There is a double inner set of lips nearest the bearing, an outer single seal and then the 4th bit is nearest the backplate, this is more a "deflector" to keep the grud away from the other lips. This seal is to be fitted with the main body of the seal 4mm lower than the top edge of the hub bore - its marked as such on the edge of the seal. If you pop one over the bare stub axle you will see the function of the outer most dust shield bit.

Ought to have this in the tech archive as people ask for it quite often....

Drop the box out, it will be somewhat tricky with ur head up under the seat box trying to get the new seal in square! Also gives you the chance to give it a good pressure wash off as well. I'd also replace the front output shaft seal and pull off the handbrake drum, clean the mud out of it and do the seal that end as well while u've got it all on the floor. To stop the output shafts turning, engage diff lock, to lock them together, then bolt a long thinish (width wise) strip of metal to 2 bolts on the front flange. As you try to undo the flange nut you can wedge this strip against the side of the casing to stop it turning. Before removing the front flange, slacken the nut on the rear one as well. Same effect can be acheived with a bar and two long bolts through the front flange, to stop it turning.

Its probably the seal on the input of the transfer which has gone. Mine is doing the same thing (its a R380) -if its definetely EP90 then they seldom leak else where apart from the output shafts. The oil leaks down from the join between main and transfer then runs down the edge of the square cover plate and drips off the bottom bolt. The airstream then usually carrys it to the bottom of the handbrake drum, out the back and leaves spots of oil on the rear door..... Its transfer box off, remove bolts and replace with studding to avoid straining o/p shaft of the main box. Then drop out transfer and hook out seal to replace. The seal is ICV10000, should be the same for all LT230's. Was going to do mine this wknd, but ended up doing my swivel preload instaed...

Chadler - Hayling Trailers (Hayling Island funny enough) take stuff in for galvanising, they send it out to another firm, had several lots done by them. They are listed in Portsmouth yellow pages. Or look up galvanising in ur local copy...

Hmph, mr adams i'll think you'll find the top 2 pics are MY series 3, recognise those rust stains anywhere, not to mention its taken at my dads The bottom pics are ur series...

Well its all done and much better for it as well. Couldn't get old seal out without wrecking it as the retainer plate and the groove in the housing it sits in were all badly corroded. Luckly the local dealer had the retainer in stock, they shut at 1pm and I rang them at 12.15pm, so quick dash down there in someone elses car to get it (the series 3 rebuild is at rolling chassis stage, but literally that so couldn't use that..this is why you need TWO Land Rovers..) Few things of note, the previous owner or the factory, had but in the hub oil seal back to front. Interestingly, the WSM and Haynes sectioned diagram both show it correctly, but in my Haynes manual (not that I ever use it), the picture showing them levering it out of the hub shows it also in the wrong way round.... Also the CV joint was actually stamped with the day it was made and a load of GKN part numbers - but didn't bother to make a note of them. And the axle bolts were a right barsteward to undo as I thought. Since you can't get a socket on, some were undone by levering up the ring spanner using the trolley jack, others were done by using a bit of straight bit of old (Renault 5, new it would come in handy 1 day...) exhaust pipe over the spanner. Oh yes a large hammer came in helpful to. Fortunately my 14mm spanner was fairly flexible. So just got to drag the transfer box out to change the input seal now, might leave that a bit yet and get the body off the series..

Limiting factor is usually the bearings, too fast and the grease will be thrown out from the rollers. 100A alts have fully sealed ball bearings top and bottom, where as 65A types have ball bearing at the top and a cup roller type at the bottom. Can't remember off the top of my head what the max recommended bearing speed is but its at least 15000 rpm, so with a Tdi you should be quite safe even allowing for the gearing up ratio between crank and alternator pulley sizes...