simonb

Not a good idea, you will need to plumb an oil feed to turbo and a return. Pistons probably won't be upto the higher stresses and temps. Cooling system may not be upto the extra waste heat either. The injection pump won't be able to supply the extra fuel, a proper turbo engine links boost pressure, to throttle, to fuelling. If your 2.5NA is near the end of its life (lets face it its almost 20 years old...) fitting a turbo will probably finish it off...

erm, changed the crank and camshaft seals 2 years ago when i did the belt (300TDi) and fitted them from the belt side of the case. To remove the timing case/chest on a 300Tdi, the sump has got to come off - see thread on black goo from a few days ago!!!!

Erm won't it be imperial rather than metric? lent mine to a mate at the mo but i think its 1" and 13/16th or something like that, steve_a would you like to check

Right then, this is from a new one which I had in my parts box. ERR5087, zinc plated 8.8 grade HTS, 27mm across flats. Thread is 53mm long, extends whole length of shank. 19.6mm across widest part of thread, thread pitch approx 1.5mm.

On a 300 Tdi, there is a seal in the timing case front cover where the nose of the crank pokes through. If the crankshaft sprocket is removed (which it doesn't need to be to change the belt), there is a large o ring on the back of the sprocket which seals it against the oil pump (which is driven direct from the crank).

The problem is more overall diameter rather than length (ooh er) some of the lamps are of a bigger diameter especially the multiled ones and they wont fit thru the back of the light unit, more of a problem on the 300Tdi/Td5 ones which don't have the removeable lens (like the series ones which do..). Also in typical LR fashion, the loom is wired so the bayonet body is +ve and the pip -ve on the side lamps and indicators (on my 300Tdi), so you will have to cut and shut the connections. If you go for leds on the indicators u will need load resistors or change the flasher ( think VWP and ultraleds do them for leds)

Its all sorted now, Chris discs in post 2 moz

Just doing my series 3 axles. Wire brush attachment fitted to angle grinder will get them back to bare metal. Then rust proof using the Hammerite rust proofer from Halfords which neutralises any remaining rust. Its a white liquid which doesn't need to be washed off. Then I've sprayed with a rich zinc primer, Unidox zinc rich Primer from Witham Oil and Paint 01502 563434. It came out the number 1 for rust proofing in a car mag test years ago. Tin is mega heavy cos there is so much zinc in it. Gonna follow that off with a couple of coats of normal primer and then several coats of chassis black, the synthetic stuff - doesn't chip like hammerite. Thats if it ever stops raining Not enough room in the garage, so the axles are on stands under a tarp on the drive...

RS components do all the bits, K type thermocouple and fittings, digital display, cables and connectors. Did mine about 5 years ago, think it cost me about £70. The panel meter will need to be mounted in a small housing, RS do a bezel for it. I added leds for night illumination under the bezel. Will read to over 800 degrees c, almost instaneous change of readings. Idle is about 150c Moderate throttle is 200-400c Foot to the floor, 80mph up motorway hills is 620-650c 300Tdi 90 Defender, Allard intercooler, 1.1 boost, slight tweak of pump but only a mild one, 1.2 ratio transfer, 235/85 tyres.

Or look on Eblag, they usually aren't more than 30 squid on there and brand new ones are often listed.

200Tdi in a defender is about 0.8-0.85, 300Tdi is 1.05 bar. Wasn't aware of any difference between defender and disco. Several people on here run 200Tdi defenders at 1.05/1.1 without any problems but it does depend if the injection pump has been tweaked (more boost and more fuel means higher EGT....) With standard fuelling 1.1 should be ok.

Not adjustable but may be due to partial faulty/dirty contacts/poor connection on the park wire (brown/green). I take it we are talking front wipers? If not ( ie its a rear wiper) then u should have bought one of my int wiper kits which comes with full instructions and wiring diagrams...

200 and 300Tdi alternators usually have a w terminal as standard but it is hidden under a plastic cover. Its a bolt style terminal on the opposite side to the output terminal.

Should be a horizontal bracket attached to the water pump and a clip to support the hose. Even then its very close. Try tie wrapping the smaller hose to the top main radiator hose, that should keep it clear. Don't let it rest on the belt or it will go in no time, and is you no doubt know, that molded hose costs a bomb... My EPC is on the other laptop but i'm sure someone will post a pic or the part #s on here. Which reminds me any knack to get the EPC to work on win 2000? it worked ok on win98 but now it says it can find the path and doesn't even start up...

Sounds like the regulator 12.5 volts is too low, have a couple of rebuilt 200/300Tdi ones ready to fit and another 2 waiting to be rebuilt.... Have spare new regulators as well.

Yep they fail, mine went about 100K miles, I know someone else who had the same problem. Must be a big problem cos they were back ordered at Land Rover about a year ago. The pattern ones i've seen look exactly the same as the Genuine ones...

On my 300Tdi 90 on sender, back tag is un used, black wire to middle, green/black to front tag.

They were bog standard M8 (coarse thread) on my 300Tdi 90...

Or go to a scrappy and get a pair of late Vauxhall Cavalier front door speakers for pennies. They are 20-50w ones and some are 2 way coaxial units. You can surface mount them on the lower dash with 3 self tappers (they even have mounting ears on them), but you may need to cut a hole to clear the magnet. Maplin do a 5"grille FJ38R for £2.49 thats an exact push fit on using the rubber gasket round the grille.

Happens on Peugeots quite a bit, bearing goes, then pump siezes or breaks shaft on pump

Suppose it will still will probably draw in coolant from the "normal" route, but if below the water level means then it definetly can't draw in air.....

Silly thought, is it a 2.5 a Landy engine, not Sherpa? Fuel pump should be in the same place as 2.25. There may be an imperial/metric issue but not length... Engine mounts, can you not take them off the 2.25 and fit to the 2.5, chassis mods shouldn't be needed. Blocks are the same. Gravity into injection pump should be ok, hang a plastic coke bottle from Neils roof rafters. Another bottle connected to the spill/return off the injectors/pump will do. Just plumb up using washer hose to get it going. There shouldn't be much return fuel at idle.

The pipe is a air bleed pipe. With it connected as per pic, as system cools it will draw in more fluid. If the connection was above the fluid level, as the engine cooled it would draw in air.

mine's a MA95XXX and its still got it, guess u can just "T" the pipes together...