monkie

Not so, there are laws covering this. You can read about it here where it clearly states that head lights must meet regulatory approval standards ie you can't just fit any old light whether that be halogen, led or otherwise.

Well despite a cold morning and not driving it since December, it starts up nicely once I realised I hadn't connected the starter relay earth to my bus bar. VID_20210306_085604.mp4

As I understand it: early engine makers were gun smiths as they had the skills required of making a tight fitting object travel down a bore. You propel the tight fitting object (a shell or cannon ball) with an explosive charge. A gun can be thought of as a one shot engine. In the same way a charge of air/fuel (or air for a diesel) is drawn into the cylinder of an engine when naturally aspirated to explode and force the piston down the bore on the power stroke. If the air is forced in under pressure the charge of air will be greater, hence the name supercharged. There are a number of ways of compressing the air to achieve a supercharge. A turbo is just one way.

Quick update. The loom is ready to be fitted. Can't wait to drive my 110 again. Fingers crossed it all works! Big improvement on the fuse box wiring. A nice thick earth to each corner that will all link up to a bus bar in the battery box. Improved connectors for all switches and lights etc.

Could you post a link to a chassis supplier selling a galvanised new chassis for that ball park figure?

I'm thinking it'll just be for straightforward to hire a van and drive up myself. I'll put some pads down in the van to catch any spills.

He also used to make huge things like steam or water powered clocks. I think they are also on YouTube if you look for them

Great to hear you're giving it a go. To be honest it's taking me longer than I thought but I'm trying to do it around work and family commitments. You're right about the generic loom, there is loads of stuff that will be unused or spare. You need to take loads of photos and make diagrams and notes. Get yourself totally familiar with the wiring colour codes and then you can work most of it out for yourself. I think the biggest improvement I think I've built in is a nice thick earth wire to each corner which go to bus bar in the battery box. Hopefully no more earth faults... Ever! This Linky will help you in terms of relays. Good luck!

Would this sort of thing work for you? Hatz diesel stuff is good quality in my experience.

Thanks Ralph, that's the thread that caused me some confusion. Having a closer look my ignition switch is slightly different to the one in that drawing. On mine position 5 is the main feed and 2 is energised when the key is held in the pre-heat position. The white/orange circuit as I understand feeds some auxiallary items such as AC where fitted, radio and the blower motor. For the blower motor specifically working backwards - the fused feed is purple/green which is fed via the fuse from the white orange wire to the ignition switch. That makes sense to me. The white/black circuit in the other thread confused me as I understand white/black to be the feed from the relay for the heated rear window which is powered by the brown permanent live via the voltage sensitive switch - nothing to do with the ignition switch.

I think I might have answered my own question. Position 5 has the positive feed, 2 has the brown/red for glow plugs. 1 and 3 become live with the ignition on so they will be for the white and the white/orange leaving position 4 for the white/red to starter relay as it becomes live when I turn the key to the start position.

Wiring up for the ignition switch - I'm feeling daft for not taking a photo, I thought I had but there you go whats done is done! I know (or think I know) the following on the ignition switch: Brown/red to number 1 glowplug Brown supply from the postivie bus White (ignition on) supply to circuits White/red to starter solenoid This is where I'm confused. The circuit diagram says another white feed. I think it is white/orange for the heater blower motor (and radio if fitted). I have seen other posts on here that suggest white/black. Can anyone please confirm that for a 1988 110 it is a white/orange wire? White/black makes no sense to me as that is for the heated rear window to my knowledge and I wouldn't be wiring that up directly to the ignition switch. Ignition on live would make sense to me for the heater blower/radio supply.

Tim Hunkin is fantastic at explaining stuff. Anyone who isn't familiar with his series "the secret life of machines" should look it up on YouTube to check it out.

Thanks Richard. It's for collecting the defender 200Tdi engine and stumpy gearbox from Ian in Stoke when he's put his BMW engine in the 110. You go along the A303 don't you? After lock down, let me know when you're passing Yeovilton and we can get a coffee for a break in your journey.

With the standard electrics on a land rover I think the earths are the weakest point. I think if that's the only thing you tackle then you will have made big improvements.

In theory I see your point. However, what if I need to remove the front wing for maintenance work or a light gets damaged. The connectors make these little jobs so much more straight forward. This is why I have opted for good quality weather proof connectors over the original bullet type.

Good idea, I shall. When the indicators for the rear are offered up it is immediately obvious the wires wouldn't even poke up through the tub.

Still making progress. The main loom is nearing completion, I just need to connect all the dash warning lamps to complete it. I got a set of Wipac LED side lights and indicators. I was disappointed to see how they were supplied: The length of wire was ridiculously short, they had used none genuine AMP connectors, and the wires had not followed a Lucas wiring colour code when they are sold as suitable for Land Rover. I spent a little time putting this right before I fit them to my 110. A bit annoying really as I had bought them as ready to fit, or so I thought. In the unlikely event should anyone who makes the Wipac lights ever sees this thread.. this is how they should be supplied please...

Thank you both. From the indicative pricing on their website it certainly looks well worth it vs the hastle and cost of doing it myself. I will get in contact with them.

Does anyone have any recommendations of a courier service they have used for transporting an engine and gearbox on a pallet within the UK? I want to price up whether it is economically viable to pay a courier to do the heavy work or just hire a van.

Yes that all makes perfect sense. It would be interesting to read about it in a journal. I'll keep looking. EDIT: I wonder with the 19J if the piston damage would be eliminated/reduced by simply fitting an intercooler and keeping all other variables the same or is something else going on?

My understanding of an intercooler is that cooling the air makes it denser and therefore more air available for burning more fuel. It's often talked about (particularly in terms of the 19J engine) of the thermal stress on piston crowns being reduced with an intercooler. I have tried to look this up in engineering journals and can find no published evidence of this. Can anyone point to anything that is published in an engineering journal?

Almost certainly looks like a discovery 200Tdi unit with no intercooler but defender high mounted turbo and manifolds. A defender 200Tdi has a slightly different timing case with a different injection pump position. A 300Tdi has a low mounted turbo and a single serpentine belt to drive the coolant pump, pas pump and alternator. A 19J is indirect injection and has a totally different looking rocker cover as the giveaway between it and a Defender spec 200tdi. If you look at land rover engines on Wikipedia it gives pictures of the different engines and you will see this is definitely not a 19J.

Also to add, I would hold some of your budget back for upgrades/work that may be required over the next couple of years. A set of new tyres for example don't come cheap. P.S I like that your name identifies you as fan of Viz magazine.

First rule of owning a Defender... Never add up what you have spent on them over the years, it will scare you