sierrafery
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Disco 1 300TDI glow plug relay wiring
sierrafery replied to Alsace_rangie's topic in Discovery Forum
The NO wire is connected directly to the battery through tha fusible link -
Disco 1 300TDI glow plug relay wiring
sierrafery replied to Alsace_rangie's topic in Discovery Forum
Yes it should be live, it goes to a fusible link described as being "P119 Fusible link - RH front of engine compartment behind battery" there is no clear view of it in the manual, it might be wrapped and not visible, better route a new wire to the relay's pin with a 60A inline fuse holder from the battery positive terminal
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That was a cheap fix then 😃
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So was th switch on ?
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I kind'a suspected that that's why i asked. The clicking noise is probably the rear wiper relay, i've seen this fault twice, unfortuaely you can't remove it cos it's soldered into the fusebox's PCB, just check if the rear wiper switch is not pushed, eventually unpug it and if the relay keeps clicking you'll need another fusebox
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OK, now it's clear... Is your rear wiper working?...if yes what about rear windows ?
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You have to be more precise with that "ignition on" term cos if it's about ignition on II without engine running the suspension is not supposed to lift cos it works only with engine running. As long as you dont describe exactly what's going on i can't help
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Do you mean with ignition off ?
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I opened the demo and it seems that if you pay £16.99 you can have pre-95 diagrams from haynes https://haynes.com/en-gb/land-rover/discovery/1989-1998
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Unfortuntely there are no online versions for pre-95 Discos, i doubt that a RRC manual would help
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No worries... at least we found out that blown F13 can trigger that symbol too
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Just confirrm everything works well now ?
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I wouldn't have imagined that you didnt check all fuses before staring this thread 🥶 though F13 should not trigger that crossed B
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Btw, when you checked continuity on the wire beween the units didnt you by any chance check against earth too? it would be good to rule out a short to ground on that link as well. As i said i've seen thys symptom many times and it was always cured by replacement BCU or IDM in about a 60 - 40% occurance for the units
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In all the cases i've seen that crossed B was caused by the IDM or BCU failure and one case when the data link was interrupted. It's the first time i see when all these 3 elements were ruled out without result so my presumption is that maybe a feed into the IDM from the engine bay fusebox is the problem... at this point i have no other ideea(provided the units you swapped are 100% in working order)
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The ECU has nothing to do wih this so don't waste time with that... all you have to check now is continuity on the data link wire between the IDM and BCU, It's a grey/pink wire between C0661-1 and C0587-17, disconnect battery, unplug hese two connectors and check wih multimeter across those pins... see Electrical library - connector views and concentrate to identify the correct pins...if you dont have it here it is https://www.sugarsync.com/pf/D8700125_05791262_69063?directDownload=true and if there is continutiy try to swap the engine bay fusebox too. btw...did you check carefully to not be any corrosion in IDM or BCU plugs?
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It seems that the warning lamps are disabled or blanked with tape as to hide the 3 amigos. The systems will not work as long as those faults are current, both faults are modulator related so it might be a crack in it's internal circuit ... see attachment to check earth points SVS.pdf
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Hi. That symbol means communication failure between the IDM(interior fusebox) and BCU, can be any of them but as you fiddled with the IDM the problem is probably there, especially if you didnt disconnect the battery before you unplugged it... better try with a known good one, it has o be off from same modell(facelift or not), battery diconnected and after the swap and battery reconnection ignition on 2 left for 5 minutes to regain digital data comms with the BCU.... that's all
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Is that iLand app smart enough to run circuit tests for the warning lamps in the BCU with it ? if yes force on the warnings wit the app to see wha happens though only nanocom can disable or enable warning lamps so if they were disabled with nanocom your app is useless
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Hi, try to run a calibration on it and if it doesnt react to the reset button as in the book then it's fubar , page 76-77 in the owner's handbook(i have only the early book but it's the same for all) Discovery 2 MY99 - Owner's Handbook LHD (LRL0322ENX 2nd Ed).pdf
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Hi. Is your fob working to unlock ?
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IIRC the bottom rear from the block goes into the port on the actuator which is close to the rubber gaiter, the pipe which is bent twice to 90 degrees there
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It's the same unit with superseded part number
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That's a bit exagerated statement IMO. I recently changed my 18 years old headlamps with brand new units and fitted Xtreme vision 130% bulbs, my friend with the original 15 years old facelift lamps(with LEDs) was very envious about my light ... he wanted instantly to fit that kind of headlamps but i discouraged him knowing that it's not easy(as in my first reply here) ... IMO the only benefit of facelift lamps is that they look better which for me is not enough especially knowing what happens if you have to change a bulb in the dark under heavy rain or snow on the side of a road... on pre-facelift takes max 3 minutes ... you tell me how fast you can change a bulb in a facelift lamp in bad weather
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Not without a lot of body work and wiring mods
