sierrafery

Here you go:

That ^^^ should do the trick, the faster you can drive the better

There are cases when the conversion table works as to convert the short code into the long one, it didnt work for me with hawkeye but i've seen posts where it was confirmed to work, worth a try if nanocom is not available this one disco2_fobcode_2_Barcode.xlsx

Hi, if the mechanical latch is OK get a key cut after the LR code, the central locking should work on the key too exactly as on the fob but to remobilise it you need the EKA code which you can get FOC together with the key code from a main dealer based on ownership prove or online for a charge, even if you override the immobiliser as to make it start if you dont remobilise it with the EKA you'll not be able to program any fob to it cos the alarm unit is ''locked''... AFAIK to program a fob to D1 there is a sequence described in the owner's handbook, the tester might not be compulsory but even if it is it will not work on a immobilised ECU for fob to be able to DIY here's a choice https://remotekey.co.uk/land-rover/land-rover-discovery-i-19956-2000/

i didnt observe, this one has it : https://www.sugarsync.com/pf/D8700125_05791262_28921

.... well done, at least it's sorted

This information is public no need to keep it secret , all the diagrams are there including the alarm: https://www.sugarsync.com/pf/D8700125_05791262_28925#

No ECU involved in this...if you wired the mirrors exactly like in the diagram i dont understand what's the trouble

Most of the actuators are failing to unlock in the fisr stage of wear cos the effort for the motor is greater then

That's not standard at all, there are two settings: SPE(single point entry) which unlocks the driver's door on first press and all the others on second and non-SPE which unlocks all the doors on the first press... IMO if your's works differently there's some wiring bodge on the circuit, put your ear on the non working door and unlock woth the fob, if you hear any activity there you need another actuator

I've checked only the diagrams and according to those the problem is that the RRC mirror has an actuator solenoid(that's what you heard clicking) which splits for vertical and horizontal movement and the D1 has two motors one for vertical and one for horizontal so concentrate on that...it's not easy to figure out which wire where to connect cos the common wire on RRC switches earth for the solenoid while the wires on the D1 mirror are switching polarity

When you fitted the plugs for the D1 mirrors in which colour wire did you splice in to connect to the 4'th pin of the mirror's plug as you had 3 wires there and 4 pin connector?

Too bad, it's a good move to read at least the owner's handbook , here's the relevant part from it: Anti-theft alarm indicator light After locking, the RED indicator light on the instrument panel will flash rapidly while the alarm system is arming itself. After 10 seconds, the indicator light adjusts to a slower frequency, and continues flashing as an anti-theft deterrent until such a time as the alarm is disarmed.

In a nutshell: forget about that

IMO more brute power is needed, ask somebody to hold the button and pull with both hands

Download RAVE from here if you can't find it: http://www.green-oval.com/data/lr/rave01.iso unpack and use acrobat reader

So, after you have RAVE open Electrical library - connector views and first see C0243, a bit fiddly and unconfortable but doable, unplug this and measure resistance across terminals L - M male side which goes into the valve block, there must be around 32 Ohm if you get something much different the problem is with the lockup solenoid, if this resistance is good go to C0677 and measure across pins 3 - 6 if here is different there's a wiring issue between these two connectors on the gearbox harness (provided the scanner which was used is reliable and the fault code is correct)...we'll speak according to the results

Not inside, that's why i asked about RAVE

Most common is chaffed gearbox harness where it travels above the transfer box but it can be the solenoid itself as well, if you are up to make some measurements with multimeter at the gearbox valve block's plug and you have RAVE(electrical library-connector views are needed) then i'll tell you more

You can use any 2.2 - 3 ohm 0.25W resistor, within this limits the airbag circuit passes the system self test and the warnung should rest(off course for that particular fault)

The shorting clip is within then plug toward the airbag only, unplugging them gives open circuit fault... to rule out the rotary coupler or airbag unit 100% a resistance like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LANDROVER-2-2-OHMS-OHM-SRS-AIRBAG-RESISTORS-0-25W-2-AMP-FUSED-FAULT-LIGHT-/261532676291 is needed

There is Lynx too which is on the same software like T4 just not so complex

Run a stall test for the autobox to rule things out:

....and if it has 2 or 3 way throttle

To swap ECUs you need a tester anyway cos even if the engine ECU is paired with the BCU the engine's injector codes must be saved and the BCU must have the exact same settings, if the odometer error warning is disabled in the BCU the instrument pack will keep it's mileage as it is and it will not flash Don't play with BCUs if you dont know exactly what to do cos if you immobilise it and you dont know the EKA code you'll have to pay to specialist to unlock it or you can bin it.... a main dealer can give you the EKA code FOC if you dont know it based on the VIN and ownership prove