Lars L

On my 110, which is of 1986 military vintage and had a 2,5n/a diesel, there is only one cable going from battery to chassis and one up front between chassis and engine. Nothing on the gearbox. And it starts...

I can give the good advice not to buy one that has a blue label on. Did that, been there...

The problem is caused by the oil being too slippery. So if your additive makes it even more slippery, you get more problems. RedLine MTL is IMHO the oil that cures the problem, did in mine anyway. http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=7

4x4 Shop... But you'll have to speak to him, the parts are AFAIK on his site.

Over here, it's not that uncommon to put a 4 litre Volvo truck engine in RRCs. First few pics in this thread give you an idea of how it looks: http://slrk.phpbb2.se/board/range-rover-td40-76-projektet-t1060.html Then, if you can read the rest... I also have a buddy who has put the complete driveline from a Nissan Patrol complete with 6-cyl diesel into a SIII 88"... Sounds like a city bus.

Genuine might be the key word here... I bought pattern ones (Allmakes, so it's not only Britpart that supplies s**t) for V8s since I had heard somewhere that they were softer than the ones for diesels. Well, as said, they were even harder than my old ones.

I had the same issues, bought pattern rubber mounts only to find they made it worse. On mine, there was an annoying resonance at 50-60 mph, exactly the normal road speed. I happened to find a professional company that sold me some isolators for industrial use. Problem solved. I can't be any more specific, but try to find something industrial with the same measurements.

I bought one LH from Craddock last year.Don't know the price right now, but I assume I thought it was worth it.

No panic braking in the wet yet, so I can't say, I've only been driving sensibly. Not as quiet as my Michelin XZY, but still OK. There will be more driving during the weekend, I might have more to tell next week. I suspect though that the big rubber chunks doesn't add to the wet grip on tarmac...

I've had a set of 255/85s on for a couple of days. Too early to tell of course, but first impression is good. Reasonably quiet and grip well in thawing snow, much better than my Cooper M+S winter tyres.

A couple of issues back, can't say exactly. At work, see...

Todd, You really ought to pay more attention to the SLRK magazin. There was an excellent write up there a while ago about modifying hinges.

The "vacuum pipe" is a pressure pipe letting the FIP know when boost is up so fuel will be added accordingly. But the turbo boost will only be there when driving with power applied, not when standing and freerevving. The I can't say what's wrong...

Yep, I know that thing about the speedo. I've had Cooper S/T 255/85 in the past, but my old 2,5 n/a engine didn't have enough stamina to turn them properly. I assume that the 200Tdi will.

Ralph, I've been thinking about getting me a set of 255/85s, but I don't like my 110 to become overgeared... My new R380 brought the revs down in 5th gear compared to the old LT77 (which it handles just fine uphill), so what would it be like with the higher gearing by the tyres on top of that? How do you find yours with more or less the same setup as mine?

Well, yes, it gets up there. Since there are no oil seals on the shafts, oil can splash up. My new Aschcroft box was duly greased with what looked like ordinary chassis grease.

I honestly think that a normal, thicker and stickier grease than one shot would be better...

They are lubed with a slab of grease at the start. Normally I don't think that they need to be worried about. But if needed, they can be taken off from the box. That means that the gearbox tunnel have to be taken out and it's also a close call to the seatbox... They sit i separate housings and have no connection to the gearbox oil.

My hydraulics business goes to Swedol - discount, you know. I don't really think that the size of the return line is the problem. The normal setup for this winch is pump - winch - steering box - back to pump. So with a standard setup, there is no option to use anything but a pressure hose. Anyway, my manual valve simply creates a bypass directly back to the pump, so there are no restrictions or one way valves in my system. Well, I'm not closing any doors, I will test a bigger diameter return hose later.

At least mu 9000 lbs winch has a White motor. The maximum allowed pressure is 121 bar according to the manufacturer. And I have to say that pressure is not that vital, the winch pulls enough at 100 bar. Flow, on the other hand is what's needed to speed it up a bit. There is thread here about that too...

Might be a future project, I'm fed up right now with dripping ATF oil.

And now - success! No drum moving without me wanting it to. I have installed a manual valve right after/before the pump between the pressure and return hoses. When this is open, the flow goes directly back to the pump without disturbing the valve block on the winch. Closing it will make the oil flow down to the winch and its valves as before. Now it's time to mate my hand throttle to the 200Tdi...

I'm using the one that was supplied with the winch. Originally intended to go between winch and steering box, but since this is a stand alone system, I used it for the return. The JIS couplings are the smallest size AFAIK, so the hose might be 1/4"? Maybe you have a point here... Noticed you are from Banbury. Been there...

Exactly what they did for all customers from Norway...

I haven't dealt with them, but if you could understand Norwegian lingo, I can point you to some horror stories.