Lars L

The driveline on my 110 has started to make some new noises. I've thought it to be the rear axle, but lately I've begun to suspect the rear output bearing in the transferbox. When driving at 35-40 mph and slight overrun, there is a rumble from below. But if I apply the handbrake just a little, it goes quiet. This has lead me to suspect the bearing since the light braking seems to stabilize the shaft. Any views from people in the know?

L.R.Series are known for their poor customer service. I haven't used them myself, but some mates in Norway have. The result from them trying to get their deliveries has resulted in a complete and total ban of any customer from Norway. Obviously L.R.Series seem to have problems understanding that not all countries in the world are EU members.

On here, everyone's opinion is that they are the dog's d... Including me - well made, engineered for their individual placement (not just shaped) and easy to install. Only negative thing is the price, but if they last a lifetime, why not.

Yes. Here is a quote from their reply to a Norwegian customer. It has been brought to our attention that at some point in the last 2 weeks the security on our secure servers may have been compromised. Several of our customers have contacted us to say that their cards have been used fraudulently after placing an order on our website. These incidents appear to be from customers based in Norway, Sweden or Germany. We take security and credit card fraud extremely seriously at Paddock Spares. As a result we have immediately suspended the use of our previous payment gateway. We have now integrated with Paypal. This will enable you to pay from your existing Paypal account or if you do not have a Paypal account you can enter your credit card details through Paypals secure payment gateway. If you have placed an order through our website within the last 2 weeks we recommend you check your statement. If you have any further questions or wish to speak to someone about this please do not hesitate to contact us. We apologise for any inconvenience that may have been caused and wish to reiterate that security will always take priority at Paddock Spares

Nope. Just remove the brake lines and keep them filled with fluid. Then change the cylinder, attach the lines again with the nuts a little loose and fill up the container with fresh brake fluid. Bleed the cylinder with help from someone pressing down on the pedal and let the air pass out through the line nuts. Tighten them when the pedal is held down and then release the pedal. If you're lucky, that's it! Worked for me.

Far from. Thing is that I bought the tyres off a guy who bought a new 130 and only drove it home to put on wider wheels and tyres.

Lots of Norwegian landroverists have been hit with extra withdrawals from their account and now it was my turn. Obviously, the Paddock webshop has been hacked and the geezers are now testbuying using various card numbers. I had the neat sum of SEK 25,21 drawn three times today, £2 or something. Go check your account!

Hej Jan, I can't help you with the number (without looking at mine that are at work), but the dimensions seem to be like Wolf. And if they are 130 originals, they are the same. Maybe not quite, as Wolfs are tubeless and, AFAIK, 130 rims are not. Is the seller situated somewhere in northern Skåne? 1953 Lars Larsson on SLRK Forum...

Sliding windows as in "manual and horizontal" sliding windows? And of the type that is original on your Landy? Any Britpart outlet sells them. And no, there is nothing wrong with them regarding quality. You will most probably need 8, even if the book says 12. The lower ones on my -86 had been exchanged to some kind of plastic sliders. Edited to say: The strips are not rubber but made of felt that you fold double when you insert them in the frame. Take the panes out to do the job proper!

No guesswork with a VDO! Mine sits rock steady at a fraction less than 90°C with a 88° thermostat.

"They" haven't replied about carriage, I only asked them in the beginning of July... I duly received a reply saying that it might take him 48 hrs to find out, so it's not been completely silent. The carriage price I got is from a company my business uses for air freight from the US and is probably "one off".

Please note that the tyre sizes are nominal and may differ from one manufacturer/type of tyre to another. Check the manufacturers technical data to get correct information.

I've been looking at this: http://www.africaland.it/ppdef.htm Also got a fair price for the transport of one rack, maybe I could order two?

Nah, it's grey... Well, I'll take it off and start over from beginning. Better safe than sorry, they say.

Well, I received my new door today, a bit dented of course. But It's easier to fix that than returning it for a new one that also will be dented when it arrives... So, the question is: Does anybody know what kind of primer they come with? I.e. is it really etch primer or should that be removed and etch primer applied? I could call Paddocks, but I suspect the answer will be, regardless of type of primer, along the lines of: "Yes, Sir, it's ready to paint..."

I think that an EFI pump will put up too much pressure. I had an electrical pump from Biltema a while, it did what it should for quite a while. It now has a new life in an 110 that has been converted back to its original V8 glory. Call me if you like...

This has been discussed previously, so make a search... I think the conclusion was that there is no separate spare part available as a genuine part, it has to be found at some bearings supplier.

The synthetic rope can get jammed between the rollers at the corners (they say) so a hawse ditto is recommended.

CRC has a product in a spray can, used to be called "Gasket Stripper" here before it got a Swedish name. It's really good in dissolving various types of gaskets making them easier to scrape off. And it's a good paint stripper as well.

Since Paddock has been mentioned, does anybody have any experience with their body parts? The doors on my 110 are rusted and the price for a complete door bottom (Series III and ex-MoD 110) is so low that it's not viable to spend time to repair my old doors.

I spent heavily taxed Swedish crowns on a bucket of NoiseKiller Liquid some years ago. Well wasted IMHO, doesn't make any difference to write home about... The other stuff on their site makes a lot more sense, weight to stop vibration and foam to act as a barrier for airborn noise is what's needed.

I think the problem is that these bushes are far too small and not containing enough material to absorb vibration from an engine. I also had quite some vibrations and resonance noise in my ex-MoD. Didn't get any better after installing a 200Tdi. I then changed the standard rubber bushes to similar ones from a company making all sorts of anti vibration thingies for industrial use and that made a world of difference.

Old fashion tool bits for lathes and milling machines... I can probably be a little more specific about some if needed.

Your site has been in the favourits file for years.

The Swedish importer used to be across the road from my office... Not that this helps.