Lars L

Thing is that with worn bearings, lifting it out is no problem. After changing bearings, the diff should be shimmed so it just doesn't fit, but some gentle persuation with a plastic hammer will get it in place. Just been there, done that...

I think they fit, depending on year of manufacture. Early ones had the rear dampers pointing in different directions. And - there is no advantage, they are virtually the same as the ones you have. Same gearing etc. Rangey axles have discs at the rear, what does a 1988 90 have? I have rear drums on my 110 and can't think of a reason to change them to discs.

The HIDs in that link are spotlights, not replacements. Then I have to admit that I don't know what's legal in the UK... Over here, there would be no problem since they are only allowed to be used on high beam on road.

Double after having reversed...

One of the wires to the motor is live as soon as ignition is on. The two other wires goes to earth (or ground if you prefer) via the fan switch.

Virker så... You may have to modify som bracketry, but anything is possible.

I'm quite sure that the best advice is had here: http://www.lrforum.com/forum/ Oh yeah, I'm a member.

No. 300Tdi runs at 1 bar and that's more or less the same engine.

Mine did too, but the engine at that time, 2,5 n/a, didn't really cope.

Changing the gearing from 3,54 to 4,11 makes a difference of 17%. Changing tires from 235/85 to 285/75 is only a little over 3% (according to one of the calculators). So what you have got is quite a gearing down change. Meaning that the wheels have to turn faster than before at any given speed. Am I right?

You stated earlier that your front springs were almost new. Measure how long they are on the vehicle and compare with their free length. We know how much weight is needed to compress them one inch. This way, you can count "backwards" to see how much weight they support. BTW, mm and kg is a lot easier to use for me...

Pic of present stance, rear wheel is a bit too low down because of uneven ground...

Marco, Just for comparison, here is the measured result on mine, with a MileMarker hydraulic and homebrewn bracket: Front with as good as new HD springs (225 lbs/376 mm free length) 280 mm. This means 385 kg on each spring. With new OME 761 driver's on both sides (200 lbs/399 mm free length). Calculated 292 mm with 385 kg. And sure enough, that's about what happened. Rear with used standard springs (330 lbs/407 and 395 mm free length) 340 and 335 mm. With new OME 755 (280 lbs/434 mm free length). Calculated 359 mm which in reality came out as approx 350 mm.

I have a list taken from some military magazin and it says 1966 for ES reg. True or not? Don't know... .

This might: http://members.shaw.ca/jbarge/springinfo.html Or this: http://www.4x4store-exeter.co.uk/catalog/The%204x4%20store%20rr%20ca/RR%20web%20gallery/SPRINGS.HTM

I think that the spec of your Britpart springs is OK, another question is the quality... Buy yourself a set of genuine springs for the rear and I'm sure they will last longer than 18 months. My OMEs have been on now for at least 5 years without any sagging. Terrafirma TF019 are 300 lbs and 434 mm. They might be an option as they probably sink to get a normal look when loaded.

First, standard rear on a 110 without Boge self leveler is 330 lbs/inch and 407 mm long. That is driver's side, passenger's is supposed to be 395 mm. Nothing HD when it comes to these. Front HD springs are 225 lbs/inch and 376 mm long on passenger's side, a little more on driver's. These work fine even on a standard vehicle IMHO giving a little more firmness in the steering without being bouncy. They gave a lift of 40 mm on mine with a MileMarker up front, maybe 50 kg together with its bracket. Question is really how much heavier yours is in the rear compared to a 110... And if you want any lift. My current setup is OME 761 driver's (200 lbs and 399 mm) on both sides at the front and OME 755 (280 lbs and 434 mm) at the rear. The resulting lift was not more than 10-15 mm which suits me fine. Most driving is made with the bed empty or with rather light loads.

I solved it on my ex-MoD 110 by cutting off the overhanging part of the doors. Then the vertical portion of the lower angle iron together with a piece of the "floor". That was sufficient on one side, but thanks to Land Rover build precision I had to cut a few mm off the vertikal angle irons and weld them together again on the other side. That made room for a pair of ordinary rock sliders bought from Paddock.

A little gentle heat from a hot air gun sometimes makes wonders too...

"Available at fine shops everywhere". I got mine from a Swedish parts place getting his stuff from Britpart and Allmakes. Type the part No in Google and see! They are not sold in rolls, but lengths a little bit longer than needed.

http://www.lrparts.net/ I have ordered a couple of Truetracs recently, one for my Salisbury. Paddock is stating £425 +VAT. Their price is £392 including VAT...

I used to use, before I ground down the pump nipple, a point adapter that attached to the pump and is possible to put into the hole of the grease nipple.

I have used a piece of metal rod, 22 mm in diameter and just wound a few laps of plastic tape to fill up for the clutch centre. It all corrects itself when the gearbox is pushed in.

Thanks, Les, will do. BTW, I sent you a PM some weeks ago...

Indeed I have. All the obvious things, easy to get to, have been checked and are in good order.