Lars L

Easiest, here anyway, is to go to the scrapyard and find a Saginaw "canned ham" pump out of some US pickup. The MileMarker is made with that pump in mind. And is what I have used for years. Costed me what would be around 40-45 quid back then... These pumps were also used in older Saabs, but if that version gives same flow and pressure might have to be tested.

Everything looked fine through the magnifying glass. The winch works exactly as it should at lower engine revs. Then I don't know about the flow rate of my pump. I drilled it up to get more speed, which I also got, and then these problems started. When looking at that spindly valve, I'm thinking that couldn't it be possible that being fed more flow than it can handle, actually could push the valve stem to one side just a wee bit and let a little oil pass... Manual valve for redirection when not in use or a magnetic clutch on the pump might be the solution. BTW, thanks for your inputs!

By now I have taken the valve block and valve apart, rinsed it, blown it dry and carefully checked for any kind of debris. So now it's as clean as it can be. And it's still going backwards at higher engine revs... I have done what can be done and it's still not working properly. Next thing might be to put in a manual valve that directs the fluid back to the pump instead of taking the route via the winch valve and just switch it over when it's time to use the winch. I can easily see that drilling out the pump made a difference regarding speed and I don't want to loose that.

I've had a bumper from First Four for several years. The bumper itself is fine and well made, but the powder coating...

That, or PTFE tape on the threads.

I have taken the winch off today, removed the valve block and blown the internals backwards with compressed air and with open valves. Tomorrow will start with disassembling of the solenoid valve. A good benefit of being selfemployed... The pump orifice was cleaned before it came back, but who knows... Anyway, the winch went backwards at higher engine revs, so it was not random. Increasing the revs when running the winch inwards made it suddenly go slower, possibly indicating that oil was pushed into the wrong port as well. And yes, it could easily be seen that it went faster than before, especially at a little higher revs than normal idle.

Yep, it's somewhat strange... I also e-mailed MileMarker with the same question and the reply was that there might be some debris in the valve. Then I don't know if he meant the valve on the pump or on the winch... When testing yesterday, the winch worked exactly as before with the engine idling. Crisp response when pushing the buttons on the remote control. And I could clearly see that it spooled faster when I increased the engine revs a little. But when the revs got too high, the winch slowed down to less than normal. When revving the engine, the drum moves without my input and the direction of rotation seems to be random... I'll test more later today.

2,5 n/a and Td will fit the engine AFAIK. But why bother, I didn't and it's been fine. I think it's only one stud that can't be used, the one at the slave cylinder. All the holes on my gearbox bellhousing have bolts in them, so I can't fit any more...

In an attempt to get a little more speed out of my 9000 lbs MileMarker I opened up the orifice of the pump by 1 mm. The pump is used only for the winch and is a Saginaw "canned ham" pump out of some US pickup truck. Now, when revving the engine, the winch drum is moving without me touching the controls. Is this what would be expected if the flow is greater than the valve block, sitting on the winch motor, can handle? So when the flow increases over a certain level, it doesn't have anywhere else to go than into the winch motor?

Isn't there an "adapter" that sits between the wiper arm and the axle? There is on my 1986. Tighteneing the grub screw on its side might help.

"For a Body mount antenna other metals may be used as it does not have a magnet that needs to stick to it." From Richard's second link. Me no guru either... And that's the way my antenna has been sitting for years, in the middle of the roof, and the function of my CB has been very good with long enough reach. Now it has been moved to a bracket on my roofrack and has yet to be tested for longer distances.

Yes, shortening the pushrod would probably be more "proper". But getting the anglegrinder in where it's situated behind the exhaust pipe... When lying on my back looking up that is. A spacer is waay easier and does the same thing.

Update : Well, for eventual future reference, I shortened the rear sleeve of my existing release bearing by 6-7 mm and that was more or less what was needed to make it fit. I also moved the slave cylinder out from the bellhousing with a couple of M8 nuts acting as spacers. There will be a proper spacer made later... So now everything works and has been tested, both on road as well as in deep snow. I also must add that a R380 is a true revolution compared to the LT77. Its different gearing of all gears (except 4th obviously) seems to suit the engine's characteristics much better and made my 110 lots nicer to drive. Better acceleration through the gears as well as a higher gearing in 5th to lessen the noise a little. Well spent 945 quid...

I phoned Dave earlier today and got the measures of the proper bearing. So that's sorted, Mr Western. Overall length is 38 mm and the distance from the business end to the fork pads is 26,7 mm.

According to Dave there should have been a box containing this and some other parts. Obviously, someone along the way had a better use for it than me. If Land Rover had a proper dealer net here, I could go and buy one. But the nearest dealers are 200 kms away, so I will have to see if I can shorten the one I have. What I need to know is the total length of the UJ100210 and how far from the "face" the fork pad sits. I'm sure Dave can answer that and there will be nothing done until tomorrow anyway...

There is a play at the master. And I also tested by driving with the slave hanging loose on the side, didn't make any change. Edited just to say that Dave is a top bloke, got a reply to my e-mail this evening. The simple answer seems to be that this box needs a shorter bearing...

I have installed a short bellhousing R380 bought from you know who. Today it was time for the first test drive, but that was short... The clutch is slipping all the time. I checked to see if something was wrong with the clutch slave, but a short drive without it didn't change anything. So the only alternative was to remove all the shrouds, floor etc. and slide the boxes a bit back. What I think I've found is that the release bearing simply doesn't have the room needed to slide back enough to leave the clutch fingers. Has anyone experienced this before? And have fixed it? I think I can shave off a few mm on the bearin end without problems... An yes, I have e-mailed the supplier, but won't get a reply until tomorrow. I had hoped to have everything ready for some snow driving on Saturday...

lr.parts.net in Liverpool was where I bought my Truetrac. They also sell lockers and I found them to be the cheapest. Paddock listed 425 + VAT for the Truetrac, LR Parts slightly over 400, including VAT.

On mine it now seems to be gearbox and steeringbox that has been quality refurbished by "British Workmanship". Gearbox lasted maybe three years and is now noisy as (&)&/=() The steeringbox is weeping oil all over the front of chassis after less than two years of use.

Actually, it doesn't work that way. I have installed an automatic dipped beam, driving with lights on is manadatory here, and it's triggered by the charging light. Comes on only after the engine starts and the alternator is charging.

You'll have to turn the diaphragm to a certain position to be able to lift it past the fuel pin. On mine (Disco engine) it's when the little hole in the centerplate points forward towards the radiator.

Changing on a 90 is a walk in the park. Undo the propshaft, then the big nut on the drive member. Slide off the drive member and pry out the old seal. Apply some grease on the lips of the new seal and install it the correct way by gentle blows around the edges with a hammer or find something like a socket that fits around the edges. Smear some grease onto the drive member and put everything back in reverse order. That's it. And there is no spacer to worry about. Also check the surface of the drive member. If it's grooved, you'll likely have to do the job again, so get a new drive member for the next time. I don't have the torque, but tightening real hard will do.

No. BTW, yours is newer than mine...

"The heater core draws its hot coolant from the cylinder head and returns it to the pump -- so the heater works regardless of whether the thermostat is open or closed." Your question got me to wonder so I asked Google, this is what I found on a US site...

It can and I have done that on a 2,5 n/a. But more reliable?