Lars L

If the label says "G" I don't think you have been mislead. Some company out there makes these seals and the genuine ones are most likely made by the same company. Britpart is not all bad, I think hope...

After years of valuable info, it was about time for me too.

Not unless someone has changed the track rod ends to greasable ones.

Well, since you already don't know exactly what you're doing just see to that some force is needed to turn the pinion making sure it's not too loose. I don't know the effects of it being too sloppy...

There are no more AFAIK... Except on the prop splines.

There isn't a torque tightening as such on a Salisbury. What has to be done is to measure the resistance needed for turning the pinion. The Green Bible states the value. Most of the time, there is sufficient play in the diff so the pinion can be rotated a little. I have recently had my Salisbury apart and I used a fish scale to measure. Since I'm metric I used the figure in kgf/cm by marking 10 cm on a ratchet and then tightened until I got 1/10th of the resistance given in the book.

Or, like my recon LT77, reusing the old bearing in the input shaft.

I solved the problem by putting in windows. But that might not suit you...

Todd Jackson, AKA Tuko, has done this on his SIII hybrid. Works a treat he says. Reason was to get his rig roadlegal with a new engine. Too much hp wouldn't have passed the test.

I never found one... And I looked.

No doubt.

The block heater in the pic is a Defa. According to their website, the effect is at least 400W. Or more, depending on what vehicle they fit. So where did 100W come from? I have one in my 200Tdi and it sure doesn't make the heat come on instantly after start. What it does however, is to enable the engine to start rather easily at low temps. Placing it somewhere else than where it's supposed to sit might not be a great idea...

There is always a little play since there is a ball bearing behind, not a tapered bearing. Quite normal.

And I suppose that moving the radiator back isn't an option on a 300Tdi? That was what I did when converting from 2,5 n/a to 200Tdi. I used the donor Disco's radiator and full width I/C and since the radiator is too high I also moved it backwards. Putting turbo hoses onto straight pipe doesn't work (for long). I know... I have had to flare the alli pipes to get the silicone hoses to stay on. Latest that popped off was after the motorway outside Askim on my way home from Suldal this summer. 120 kph uphill puts some stress on them hoses. And once it slips off, it doesn't stay on if you put it back.

Yes. No.

I had a feeling that there was a pic somewhere...

I simply cut off the doors a little at the lower end, trimmed the angle iron together with the floor to make room for a set of ordinary rock sliders from Paddock.

Right... I have now taken the pan off and checked the backlash. It varies a little on different crownwheel positions, and is from 0,18 to 0,22 mm, so there is really nothing to change there. Quite OK according to different sources. I also checked if there is any runout on the crownwheel and it's well inside of the allowed 0,05 mm so that would be OK as well. The only thing now might be that the carrier bearings need to get more preload. At the moment, the carrier is snug, but not really tight. It can be taken out with no effort and can be pushed in place by hand. Maybe I should add shims of 0,12 mm as the manual says...

Being of lesser knowledge than you Steve, I followed the manual. And since I also changed all bearings, the manual told me to check the pinion height. Which I did... And added a shim which now has been removed again. Yes, bearings are all Timken. Spacer is new. Crushed down to achieve the resistance when turning according to the manual, now in the region of 45 kpcm. Measured with a fish scale on a 10 cm arm to 4,5 kgs. I'll just have to do with the Skoda for a while, waiting to get the shims to move the carrier and crownwheel. Thank you for your input!

I have recently installed a Truetrac together with new bearings in the rear axle of my 110. The old diff came out OK without the special spreader and taking all apart was no big deal. I carefully followed the instructions given in the LR repair manual and measured everything accordingly. The measuring showed that the pinion needed an extra shim which was bought and installed. Somewhere along the line, something got wrong, so when putting the diff carrier in the axle casing, there was a free play instead of a really tight fit. Well, I pulled a bearing once more, installed all the shims I had at hand and tried again. This time the carrier was tight, but a few blows with a plastic hammer got it in place OK. I checked the crownwheel free play - 0,17 mm, the book says 0,15 to 0,27 mm so everything was put back to test drive. All seemed to be OK, smooth and quiet. Until I let off the accelerator at speed for the first time... A rumble and vibrations that could be felt in the whole truck. So, back indoors again, out with the oil and off with the pan. I sprayed some primer paint on the crownwheel and turned the pinion several turns in both directions. The inprints showed that the pinion was too far in... Thank you Land Rover for the exact measures! Carrier out, pinion out, the extra shim was taken off and everything went back in again. The carrier slips in with no extra tightness but also no free play. Just like the one I took out. Paint on the cogs again and this time it left an almost perfect inprint, well centered and covering a large area. Time to test again. Nice and quiet as before but still rumble when engine breaking from speed. A whole lot less than last time at least. So, experienced crowd, what next? Moving the crownwheel closer to the pinion, maybe? Does the carrier need to be real tight to get in place? Now I'm out of shims, and there will be more than a week before I get any, so plenty of time to think it over.

The dampers should be fully tightened. If you take a look, you'll se that the bottom stem has a step where the thread ends. The plain part is where the bushes will be compressed.

Lots of 110 STWs are registered here as light trucks. For tax reasons... But - it's not allowed to have any seats in the back, only the two or three seats up front. All windows etc can be kept as they are. Previously, there was also a demand that a rather sturdy "dog guard" should be installed behind the front seats and rings for securing the cargo, of an approved type, installed in the back at given spacing. The demand for the cargo net was changed earlier this year so you can register without. Instead, all eventual cargo in the back has to be tied down and secured. Again, this is what applies if we over here are to import, there might be somewhat different rules for "flyttgods"...

You don't get any benefits by adding a cat and filter. This only applies to new cars, originally equipped from factory. Am STW with all seats will cost you some 10 to 12000 SEK on annual road tax, but you get it divided so you pay three times a year. My 110, registered as a two seater light truck, costs me a bit over 5000.

Wot he said... Log onto the forum, there is an international forum where you can aske around in your native lingo. Swedes are actually rather good at understanding, speaking and writing English. It might take a while before you can write in the forum, newcomers are scrutinized before they are allowed to post. Keeps spam off, see. I have to correct my post, had salmon for dinner and the accessories (Icelandic Brennivin) doesn't really improve typing...

Natural question - where to in Sweden? Being a 1989 I don't think you'll need one, but I'm not sure... In the past, there have been "lighter rules" when you bring a vehicle in as "flyttgods". I.e. you have owned and used it yourself abroad and bring it with you when you move. Ever since also Sweden joined the EU everything connected to vehicle import has been a lot easier. I bought an ex-Mod back in 2002 in the UK and registering it here was a doodle. Read here: http://www.transportstyrelsen.se/en/road/Importing-vehicles/