Lars L

Yes, there is this mentioned thicker "no hole" gasket that is 1,6 mm. Just what I need after having measured the piston protrusions...

Thanks Snagger, what I thought... And to the Aussie : Yup, we have, that's the reason why most shopping is done in the UK.

Land Rover dealers are few and very far apart here... Nearest is some 160 miles away.

I have a spare 200Tdi engine that has undergone a serious renovation. The machine shop, that really didn't know exactly what they were doing, also skimmed the block. Now I need the thickest headgasket in the range. I have found two part numbers listed - ERR7154 and LVB500230. The latter is stated as "multi shim steel" at LRDirect while LRSeries just states that ERR7154 has been superseeded by this one. So, which one should I go for?

Why do I get all these ads? Sorry if it's been discussed before, been busy with my SII...

OK then, maybe I should buy a set to hand over to someone that can adjust the injectors properly. Wasn't thinking of doing it myself... I have changed the timing chain and after spending some time to find the best slot in the cam gear, the pump timing is spot on. Then of course, I haven't checked the skew gear...

Been busy restoring a 1958 SWB 2,0 diesel for some time. It's now more or less finished and has been tested and on the road for a week now. The engine has 53 years on its back, so piston rings, gaskets and conrod bearings have been ordered. There is also this "injector knock", especially at lower revs, so the injectors need to be sorted. Could it really be as simple as installing new nozzles like this and then adjust the opening pressure?

The spindle has an adapter that is held on by a small screw on the side, check that this is tightened enough.

I bought a set from Paddock some years ago. Nothing wrong with them and realatively easy to fit, two holes have to be enlarged and two new drilled on each side. Up front they attach to the bulkhead bolts.

Surprisingly enough, I try to get the inside of my 110 warmer when it's cold outside. So I have bought myself a heater core for a Volvo 740 and am trying to install it into the heater box. First idea was to just replace the existing core, but I was mislead by the seller's web site. It's about 50 mm higher than the standard one, so it's a close call to not hit the bonnet. Then it struck me that I might rip out everything in the box and install the Volvo core horizontally as it is in a Volvo. When doing that, there will be no flap left to mix cold/warm air. Hence the need for a water valve.

I'm considering to "update" the heater on my '86 110 with a 200Tdi. As standard there is always flow of water through the heater core and asjustments of air temp is made by blending in cold air. Would installing a water valve as per Series III and control the flow of water from fully open to fully closed do any harm? Water will flow through the engine as before, it's just the part that goes to the heater that will be stopped.

As we all know, there are some "uprated" ally heater cores being sold for lots. Last year I bought a bog standard one from Paddock and to my surprise that too was made in ally. Looked promising since aluminium transfers heat better than copper or whatever the old one was made of. Did it improve the heating? No, not really... Some over here say that a core from a Volvo 740 can be fitted with some tinkering. I'll try that before the cold weather comes. Volvos are known for effective heaters, so maybe...

Old 200Tdis had the extra hose from the valve cover to the side of the block. These were deleted from newer ones and they only have one breather.

I bought a set and they were new.

Joining takes no time at all : http://www.slrk.org/svensk-land-rover-klubb/klubben/medlemsansoekan.html It's however in Swedish, but maybe you can find out.

Check the bearing behind the transfer brake drum. That caused a similar rumble on my SIII 109.

Mr. Badger, "North of Sweden" is a vast area... Are you in the vicinity of Kramfors, maybe? I can tell you there is a Land Rover club meet in the area starting on Friday morning. Norfällsvikens Camping to be exact.

Since I made my input earlier about a "bodge", I now want to declare that I will do a better job next time. I have been given (yes!) a Disco 200Tdi that was abandoned causing the pistons to rust stuck in the bores among other things. This will undergo a pedantic slow renovation and I will surely do as Les suggested this time.

Neither have I when working on a Land Rover - 109 and 110. The time I used heat was on a Russian GAZ 69. Three brake drums had this threaded hole and were no problem to get/push off. The fourth drum didn't...

Sometimes a little heat does the trick. I've successfully used a hot air gun to get drums off that first seemed more or less impossible.

Yes I do, if you buy from a reputable company.

It would, IMHO, be rather unwise not to change the seals when you already "is there". The only part that might cause trouble is the steel ring holding the dust seal in place. If you buy Genuine, I think they will get in place without problems. But - stay away from a pattern kit from Britpart... I bought these and even the sizes were wrong for a few of the items. Picking from two kits was needed to get one to fit. Even with this bad start, the steel rings went in and stayed there with the help of a piece of flat iron and a carpenter's caliper.

You'll need a workshop manual for the Salisbury. The diff bearings need to be shimmed to get the backlash and bearing preload right. If you're not talking about something internal in the locker...?

I've been on the search for some molasses, but evidently it's "out of fashion" here since none of the farmers I visited use it any more. So I did a test with the electrolytic method. A rusty PAS pump pulley came up of the bath after a few hours looking like new again. The black crud on the surface was removed with Cillit Bang shower cleaner.

Genuine is Genuine IMHO. And should come in a Land Rover Genuine package. Other stuff with "G" ending the part No is not Genuine, it's OEM. And one can only hope that it's the same part as the one that's offered in a Land Rover box. Sometimes I doubt it...