Lars L

The vital measurements like offset are the same as on a Wolf, 20,6 mm. It looks like a standard rim but widened outwards if you get what I mean.

Another opinion regarding gear ratios here: http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/gear_ratio.htm

I have my winter tyres on 5,5 rims, no worry at all. But - 6,5 is better. Get in touch with Mark Jennings, I think there is a link on SLRK:s web site. He can get you used 1-ton rims for little money. And they look the part IMHO.

I most certainly do. No, no oil cooler, hardly necessary unless you drive hard in really hot climates i think. I can add that the R380 really transformed the driving compared to the old LT77. The latter was probably something readily available back then, but its gearing simply doesn't suit a diesel with practical top revs of about 3.000.

Disco box can not be altered,so forget about that option. Your old LT77 is of course fixable, but it is up to you to decide if you have the skill. Recon box is the safest option and i can recommend you to get a R380 with short bellhousing from Ashcroft. Its gear ratios suits the diesel engine much better than the LT77.

Obviously you have a rear door mounting... The standard one used by MoD on 90/110 has a center post and two internally threaded posts on each side for bolts. And a special holder to put on top of wheel that the bolts hold down. The bonnet is also reinforced to take the weight. Or the upward strain when bolts are tightened.

Felt strips for military door tops seem to be fine...

It's not always so easy to check the UJs. I had a vibration in mine and found a small play in the foremost UJ in the rear prop. Changed it, no difference. The rear one had no play that I could detect, but one of the needle bearings was completely dry. When taking it apart, most of the needles in it simply had disappeared. New UJ at that end too sorted the vibrations.

It's on the side of the tank, Fridge. At least on mine... Taking the wheel off makes things a little easier.

I have to add: Sterling service from Merlin Motorsport (where I bought my VDO tankgauge). I ordered the kit on their webshop on Monday evening and today, Friday, the Royal Mail package arrived. Consider I live in Sweden...

Well, you can change the standard sender without too much trouble, even if it's fiddly. It's on the LH side of the tank and is held on with a bayonet kind of ring. Just make sure that the fuel level is low... And see to that you have all the parts available - sender, bayonet ring and gasket. Despite that everything was new when I installed it, it leaked. So some silicone goo on the gasket is recommended...

Why 300 Amps on split and relay? I now use a 70 A voltage sensing relay on my 110 to charge the extra battery used mainly for the fridge. Previously I used a simple relay rated 30 A that was governed/triggered from the alternator thin wire. Both have served well in keeping the extra battery charged.

It's most probably the sender that has given up. I changed mine (together with the tank) to a "white box" sender maybe three years ago. That recently gave up... So now a VDO fuel gauge together with a dip tube is in transit and will go in.

Nah, they didn't have a 110 in desert camo.

I seem to remember from an old post on here, that using injectors from a certain Peugeot will get you a little more power. Reason was that these lack the little extra hole the Land Rover version has for easier starting. Search, and you might find... New head can be bought from Turner Emgineering, or at least could when I got one.

Easiest is to try a new sender for the light. They do fail, frequently... And are cheap.

Been there... What I did was to get a "new head" from Turner. They called it gas flowed, but I assume it simply was of the newer type. Not much happened with the performance after I installed it, but after adjusting fueling on the IP, there was a significant improvement in torque. I also had a snorkel, but with a Cooper top. That decreased performance due to the long air path. Removing the intake muffler on the air cleaner and turning the intake away from the heat made a little positive difference. I have a feeling that I read somewhere about "racing" cams for a diesel and the conclusion was that it won't work. Not sure about that, though. Anyway, diesels go out of puff at higher revs anyway, due to the fact that there isn't time enough to suck in more air every time the inlet valves are open.

The bits of metal remain in there... Until you remove the Difflock thingy and replace it with a magnetic plug. I have one in a Disco 200Tdi engine now sat in my 110. The exhaust is very close to the sump plug, so the Difflock valve was the only way to avoid oil everywhere when changing. A normal plug would probably be better to use since there is no "swosh" when emptying the sump, the oil is just slowly running out.

The boxes are the same on the outside, just use the old levers and sticks from the Defender.

Are tou talking about the standard military door tops? If so, there is no metal in the strips, just felt. You have to drill out the rivets at each end of the inner bottom channel and remove the locking mechanism. If you look down where the glass sits, there are a few, 4-5, self tapping screws that have to be removed. Then, for safety, hang some strong tape around the upper part of the door and secure the glass so it's not dropped. You should now be able to pry the lower, loosened part inwards and slide it off the panes. The new felt strip is folded double and pushed into the grooves and you have to cut them to fit.

I simply left these out when I installed the Disco engine in my 110. And have not seen any ill effects after several 10.000 kms driving. But - if you find a way to put them back, why not...

I used my friend the angle grinder and removed some metal from the grease gun nipple to make it fit.

Sounds OK to me, but that's me. Mine goes to 1,2 bar uphill with the pedal firmly planted at 100 km/h.

They will surely be softer, even too soft as soon as you put any load in... The springs you have are strictly speaking not HD, just standard ones for vehicles without the Boge unit.

How about xljus in Ringarum? Ad in the latest issue of Rover Land - 695 Swedish pesetas. I bought a pair of bulbs off him to get rid of the blue light I had in my converted NBBs. 4300 K is what you want to get the best white light.