Lars L

My 300Tdi has the same gadgets as yours and I can't remember other than that the "advice" from Allisport was to turn the diaphragm on full, i.e. the hole facing towards the bulkhead. That is what I have done and the performance is way better than standard.

Everything causes cancer, one way or another. According to all reports that are published anyway... 15 minutes of fame, etc

I bought an Allisport that goes into the stock position. Some grinding has to be made on the radiator frame to get it in, but that's quite easy to do. The instruction for the FIP is rather crude - just turn the diaphragm to max position... If it's smoking, turn back a little and test. I've left min at max without any excessive smoke clouds. And yes, it wakens up the 300Tdi. Now, I've got the urge for this: http://bellautoservices.co.uk/products/vnt-vgt-turbo/300-tdi-vnt-vgt-turbo/

Being in Sweden and having done almost the same thing, even if it was back in 2002, the local SBP accepted the information in my Land Rover workshop manual. But that was when registering a 110 with 2,5n/a. Didn't tell them after the engine was swapped to a 200Tdi since they don't have a clue anyhow what the different engines look like... So with any kind of luck, they will accept just about anything written that looks a bit serious.

I bought the rubber from P A Blanchard. But I had to find metal strips that could be pushed into the seals myself. Getting these in place was not that easy, the best lubricant I used was the silicone stuff used to prevent rubber door seals from freezing to the doors. What you've got seems to be seals för Defenders, A better choice if originality isn't an issue, but you have to grind off the lips yourself...

I changed the seals on my '58 last year to modern type seals. Now one at the rear has leaked, so old fashion leather seals are on their way... Available at Paddock's and others.

They have foam, but it doesn't soak up any water. They of course trap water like any other rubber mat.

Yes, they fit quite OK.

I've bought two sets of these (scroll down a bit): http://www.mailorder4x4.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Interior_628.html

Quite OK, then.

Don't think so. Only way would be the coolant temp gauge, and a good one that actually shows the degrees, not just fields in different colours. I have a VDO that normally shows a fraction under 90 C. Without the fan and with a 2 ton trailer behind cruising in first gear (punctured trailer tyre...) was the first time I saw it go over 90. BTW, the fan is back in place again.

EGT changes waay faster than the water temp... And it is what it says, temperature in the exhaust only.

My experience of an electric fan on a 200Tdi is that it comes on only when offroading. Low speed doesn't push any air through the radiator. I have removed the viscous fan on my present 300Tdi, but keep it with me so it can be put back when needed.

Jiggle pin is there to let air escape when filling up with water/antifreeze.

I have two Discovery 200 Tdi engines... The older one with a low engine number has a rubber hose running from the valve cover to the cover behind the injection pump. The newer engine doesn't have this, so it has been omitted sometime during the production run. There are also other differences to be spotted when the engine is disassembled. The ally ladder between block and sump is modified on the newer engine and makes it a lot easier to install the oil pump. Which needed a socket on a wobbly extension on the older engine...

This will make the engine a bit hotter to start with: http://www.schwalm-kg.de/Frost%20guard.htm

Undercover Covers didn't bother to answer my e-mail when I asked about price etc for my SII... So the order went to Allwheeltrim. The hood is great, but it took some time before I got it delivered. Well worth the wait.

Don't get any ideas, Dan!

Indeed it does.

Internal - 16 mm. That's what matters, external depends on manufacturer and can vary.

Swapping over the housing from the N/A - i buy that! Without any hesitation. But in my case the old engine had to be complete since it was in good nick and got a new use in a SIII 88.

I find it really queer that people from time to time say that it's only to bolt it on... Mine surely wasn't. One example is that the clutch slave cylinder sits on the other side on a Disco compared to a 90/110. So one stud has nowhere to go. I had to do what I wrote above to make it fit. And sit upright. Some studs will fit if the engine is tilted, but others won't. 1986 ex-MoD with LT77 if that matters... Box has since been changed to a short bellhousing R380 that just slid on as the old box did.

If you want a correct speedo, you need 255/85-R16... Which is a tad bigger than the standard 7.50-R16 or 235/85-R16. These make the speedo read 5 kph too much at road speed. Exactly like the authorities want it...

Mine, more or less empty 110 CSW without seats in the back, 26 psi all round on the road. Only used now and then for offroading with lower pressures depending on the ground.

It doesn't fit without some tinkering. There is, if I remember correctly, at least one of the engine studs that has to be removed. Three, maybe four others at the bottom have to be relocated. There are places for them, you just need to drill out the present small holes an tap them M10. You will lose the long bolts going into the reinforcement piece between the block and oil pan, but with careful drilling you can install long unbrako bolts before you put the gearbox back. I didn't bother with these long bolts and it has been fine for years and approx 80.000 kms.