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Davedef90

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Everything posted by Davedef90

  1. IIRC the breather for the autobox is on the N/S almost to the rear of the box. It sits about 3/4 of the way up the side of the box. Don't have a pic and it's hard to explain. If you put you hand in the general area you should be able to feel it
  2. Why make things when things like this are available off the shelf. You can monitor more temps than you care to mention. Not sure of UK vendors though http://www.madman.co.za/
  3. OK. I'll go back and study the OED for a more appropriate word. Will come back to you with one if I can find it. But it didn't come up on the auto spell checker . So it must be a word. Even for water storage as said above it's best part of 50kg above the waist line of the car. If you balanced it out on the other side that's 100kg plus in the wrong place and would upset the balance of the car. Plus widen it by what .5/.6m.
  4. That is the most stupidist (is there such a word) place to store fuel. On the rack is better if you have to but to make your vehicle wider and weight unbalanced like that is plain daft. But each to their own I suppose.
  5. Jon PM received. Will bag it up tomorrow and try to get to the PO. Will let you know when it's inbound
  6. I have a spare 200TDI sender drilled out to accept a VDO sender. I'm sure it's the same as a 300TDI thread. Send me a PM with your addrwss if you need 1 still. Can throw it in the post to you
  7. Not sure if this is the correct place to put this. Mods, please move if needed. I'm trying to do away with all the pants LR gauges. And convert to VDO senders and guages. I can't find the thread count/pitch of the sender in my 300TDI. It's the coolant sender that is now causing me this drama. I HAVE done a quick search on here but couldn't see anything!!! Anyone help me?
  8. Why only a 1hr test drive. When I purchased my 90 and D3 (man + auto) I had them each for a 24hr period. If you are serious about buying the dealer will let you have an extended test drive.
  9. Why would that wiring frighten you??? If you look on other forums there are numourous expeds going to Tunisia/Morocco/N Africa and taking D3/D4/FFRR/RRS. As long as you don't kick the arse out of anything you should be fine
  10. Or just buy an auto. So much better. Having had both, the auto wins hands down. With a BAS(*) remap the auto would be perfect. * Other remaps are available
  11. Not sure about the clutch but the book says take the body off for the turbo if it needs changing. No longer needed. A lot of independants have done it quickly/cheaply with the body on. If you buy from a dealer you get 12 month warranty and a 3rd party warranty isn't that dear. As for the rest, spend a bit on BBS MSV box of tricks and you have more fault finding/upgrading capability than a dealership. There is a bloke on the D3 forum, I think it's the bloke who owns BBS. He purchased and base spec D3 and rewired it and specc'd it to HSE. So it can be done. Have a flick through the D3 forum and you'll see that so many things can be achieved, even fitting flappy paddles for gear change. Heated steering wheel from the RRS/D4. So you'd still get to tinker, but it wouldn't be in 16" plate steel Remember people only shout when they have a problem with their car. How many posts on here are there from people saying that this week they have had no problems with their ride
  12. Many thanks for the link but at those prices I think I'll stick with windows that are glued shut.
  13. Trying to convert my 90 to a truck cab. But the sliding windows that came with the cab have been glued shut with mastic. Is it possible to replace the felt slider bits or am I destined to have no opening windows. Had a look on line at the usual parts suppliers but can't see where the parts are. Any ideas?
  14. The reason that the recovery ring thingy is a LH thread is to stop the stupid people using an understrength bold, not rated for the car
  15. Not sure about the rest of the fleet. I know that the whole plant fleet was sold for 1 pound!!! to a company called ALC. They now whole fleet manage all the plant for the Army. Even abroad. Basicaly they own the fleet and we (the tax payer) rent it back off them on a day rate. If you don't use it for a day you don't pay for that day. For the bigger HGV kit I'm assuming it would be the same for MOT. Would have to ask my mate if that's the case unless there are some mil types on here who deal with trucks and stuff
  16. WRONG. The LR fleet does now have to have an MOT. Depending on wether the unit has a qual tester or not decides if it goes to a normal test station or is done in house. Most places don't bother with the inhouse tester as the costs don't warrent it
  17. Not sure where he is but I think his name is Mark Jansen. Always over at Billing buying almost every spare part. Maybe worth a call
  18. According to the Met Office it seems it's not far away. Here's hoping
  19. Don't/Didn't X Eng sell a kit that did the EGT and a host of other stuff. It's the set up that I'll be fitting as and when I get round to doing something with my truck
  20. I ran 10 spl ARB's for a while. Only broke 1 CV but that was climbing out of a ditch at a silly angle. I was a newbie then and have learnt a bit since then. Hopefully As Nig says you can upgrade a 10 to 24 spl. After lots of research I managed to find out that it was possible but the cost of parts was more than a complete new 24 spl locker.
  21. If you have flushed it twice and no improvement I would be looking towards a new rad or a recore.
  22. I'm also in favour of lifting the engine out to do my clutch. Can do it in under 4 hrs now.
  23. We will remember them. It is a shame so many young boys are having to grow up so fast in Afghan at the moment. THey leave the UK young and fresh faced and come back older beyond their years after seeing more horrors in 6 months than anyone should see in a lifetime. To them I am eternally thankful
  24. Very nice. Any idea on costs? No dealers in the UK
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