stumpy2268

I can do you a photo of a Cairns blue Bobtail :D

Oh dear, I think I can feel a huge 90 / 110 vs Range Rover debate in the air I, of course shall remain impartial :D

Your torn - I live in Kent and still would like to go to both :D

Find me one I can fit into and move my arms around

My wife's Rangie was mine, but she blagged it 'just until I can get another car I like' 8 years ago !! I now get moaned at for moving the seat and mirrors when I have driven it I did teach her how to change the oil and filters though, so that is at least one less job on my spiraling list.

It won't be long before he starts building a vapour truck too :D

Slightly off topic, but still in the body panel area, has anyone any idea where I could source an A pillar for a Classic Range Rover ? - other than cutting one off a scrapper. The only panel available appears to be the lower section where the door hinges bolt on. Apologies if I appear to be hijacking your post

Mark, PM sent regarding panels, not sure if it helps ? Adrian.

A very straight forward job to do. Be sure to get hold of a workshop manual first, as you can then see what to expect. You will also need a torque wrench and some gaskets, though you could get by with silicone sealant in place of the gaskets. - opinions are divided. You also have the benefit of all the knowledge and experience on here to draw from if you are unsure.

I would visit there first if I were you. The clicking may have gone because the broken bits running around inside the swivel housing are now incased in grease, and stuck in the bottom of the casing. Strip the stub axle off and have a look / feel around for bits.

CV joint broken up ? Did you hear any 'click' or 'clonk' noises from the front end before you lost steering movement ? Try jacking the front end off the ground, and spin the wheels one at a time. If they freely spin with no movement of the opposite wheel or propshaft, get your spanners out ! You could also disconnect the ball joints at the hubs, and check to see if each hub will turn lock to lock. This at least tells you if the steering box or shaft uj's are at fault.

Would like to go, as missed the Saturday social at Billing due to other commitments. Jez, what's the current plonk to rocket fuel exchange rate ?

As I live within physical abuse range, I cannot possibly comment. Hoping to meet a few faces on the plain in a couple of weeks, and at 7S in September. As a fellow Stumpy, perhaps I should meet yostumpy too ?

Paul, To go back some way in the thread, I would not put Calgon in your cooling system or washer bottle, as it is very corrosive, and intended to be washed through a washing machine and then down to drain. There is therefore a good chance that the Calgon would eat all the seals in your recirc pump, and attack your copper tube from the inside out. If you wish to reduce the rate of limescale deposit, you could add Citric Acid ( Jif lemon juice ), or Acetic Acid ( Vinegar ). You should however be carful not to allow the pH to get too low, as the acidity will also ruin your system. In short, why not put a drain valve in the circuit, and dump the water regularly Nice fabrication by the way. Good to hear from you. Adrian.

Hi Jim, Just a thought, but if anyone has ever been to the Goodwood Festival Of Speed, there is always a small comp style course offerring rides to paying punters. As I recall, the guys who run the burgundy bowlers in the British offroad championship have been the ones on course - HGH is it ? The course is short enough to get lots of people through in a reasonable time, and appears to be a crowd pleaser. Perhaps a drying out tent would also be useful for that Sunday morning feeling !! - we are not talking wet socks here Good to meet you on Saturday by the way. Sorry about Mark trying to sell the dog, he'll do anything to try to fund the 90 ! Adrian.

James, You can cut off the old plug from the remote lead and replace it with an IP67 plug / socket from the likes of RS components - part no. 246-8458 or 329-9102 & 329-9152 may do the job. These plugs and sockets are small enough to use on a flying lead. There are lots of other alternatives in the RS book, depending weather you want to replace the connection on the solenoid pack too ? regards, Adrian.

Hi Chris, Sorry for late reply, just to confirm Walfy's note above, I will be there. Thanks for putting me on the list. Regards, Adrian.

Alas, you may be right. You do however put me in mind of another satisfying smell - That of a still warm rambler on my winch bumper And a sound - the distant murmur of 'you're not supposed to be driving down here' coming from the front of the car. :D

Mud on the exhaust gets my vote too. Though to be more specific, Exmoor mud on the exhaust, as we have had some fantastic times there. Sounds - Has to be that V8 burble in second gear low box whilst tickling up a rocky lane.

Hi Jen, This may seem a little obvious, but I will make the comment anyway. If you are able to fit the alarm yourself, and do not need it for insurance purposes, you will at least have a knowledge of which wires have been cut, where they are routed, and possibly how to bypass the whole system in the event of a failure in the middle of nowhere. Just a thought Aid.

The double S headers and system are IMHO a good quality fabrication for the money. I have fitted 2 on my V8's with no fouling or additional bending required. You should be aware however that, although Double S will sell you only the Y piece, they charge a premium for 'part systems', as I found when looking for only the front section for my bobtail. I ended up buying a complete sports system, incl. headers, for less than the cost of the bits I wanted. Aid.

You could also get in touch with Paul Whiteman, or Rogue Vogue. They were offerring ready to weld on drain end caps a couple of months ago. I use QT guards front and rear, and have found them easy to fit, and clean out. Aid.