Ed Poore

Well you've not made it worse then

I'd personally just get them blasted and pins replaced if that's a free option. You've got nothing to lose by doing it. If you can't leave the vehicle without them attached then you could always source another pair and still get yours blasted, serviced and painted. From what people have said nothing seems to last compared to the "old" Land Rover hinges. From some people I've spoken to my original 1994 hinges have less play in them than vehicles from the end of the production line.

Yeah but has he made it to work yet...

I've sent him a message to see if he has anything lying around in the yard.

Bob may have a motor lying around (tends to swap them out for hydraulic) so if it ever happens could swap bumper for motor?

If the windings aren't burnt out then chances are it's a simple fix. I'd try pulling it apart first and assessing the damage. Measure the impedance through the windings and you should get an ohm or two. You've got nothing to lose by it.

You sure it's working? The impacts suffer greatly if you have a loose fit, amazing how a snug fitting socket with no extensions changes things.

Sounds like you need to invest in one of these... Or they've brought out a bigger one. I've got the older variant of the first one and yet to find anything it's failed to undo. Problem is fitting it in in the first place, although the newer ones are slightly more powerful but considerably more compact.

What's wrong with the motor? Electric motors are normally pretty simple beasts and usually rebuildable. Might be as simple as some new brushes.

I suspect those bushes won't be much use / offer any benefit. They're in effect just acting as spacers, the bolt goes all the way through so any vibrations will also go through the bolt. If you think about all other bushes the rubber seperates the two metal contact points. You've introduced some flex there but I'd wager all that'll happen is the bole hole or bolt will eventually work lose / damage itself. If it were me I'd stick with them bolted directly together in the more rigid setup.

Well if you happen to be near Wales then I can cut up and weld some stuff for you. Alternatively if you can sketch what you want I don't mind knocking something up for you and posting it for cost. Got plenty of scrap useful stuff lying around here and a MIG, TIG and plasma.

I suspect in the grand schemes of Land Rover engine performance it's all moot! The point about the beefier supports is a valid one actually. The standard method of mounting it is ridiculously strong (3mm ish steel bracket bolted to the head with two head bolts and also a stay to the vacuum pump mounting point), with rubber mounts. So perhaps worth keeping an eye on the brackets as they may bend depending on usage?

It does look good. I've have personally welded up the bracket (or cut it out of one piece of sheet on a plasma) but that's because I've got access to all those tools in the shed ... My only thought - and I'm not sure whether it's a good thing or a bad thing yet but something to consider. By not having the rubber feet in your are going to be shaking the filter housing around more and perhaps this might cause problems with the dust continually being mixed around around rather than settling at the lowest point? I don't think it's an issue in the slightest but the only thing I can think of from an "engineering" perspective. Perhaps @discomikey can provide some more insight?

Same thing is true of my Leatherman.

I've always made do with an older version of a Leatherman Skeletool CX. Has just the bare minimum of tools but therefore is smaller that you don't notice it in your pocket. I got it predominantly because it had the karabina (which is also a bottle opener) so that I could clip it onto my climbing harness. To be fair I'm on my second version - I snapped the previous one in half. To be fair I was using it (combined with a rock) as a hammer to build a small rabbit clay pigeon trap at a local gun club . Dropped it in at a friend's gunshop - he phoned Leatherman and they said bung it in the post so we can have a look at it. The following day there was a new one in the post before the postie had picked up the old one. They just wanted the old for analysis.

The Bearmach one (for a 300Tdi) does come with the necessary gasket. OK it doesn't come with the spare bolts as you mention but then who snaps bolts when changing the timing belt ? Bah - battery power, don't need the compressor then . Also an issue in the new place in that the compressor is not usually where the vehicle is until I finish tearing down / rebuilding the barn.

For a 300Tdi but I normally just buy a kit through Bearmach as it's all OEM stuff that comes in the box, but I also have a discount with them too so that helps.

On a 300Tdi the inlet pipe from the wing needs to go under all the brake servo and the clutch malarky so it drops down from the wing (also to act as a water trap) and then comes in to the bottom of the housing. The output from the filter then goes alongside the bulkhead and around the back of the engine to the turbo. The housing also has lug(s) in the housing which slot into the two wrap around brackets to correctly orient it. I guess if you want to rotate it that's up to you but you'll have to remove those lugs otherwise the clamps won't close. With regards to your setup that looks correct - note that the bracket utilises two of the cylinder head bolts.

I think those pyramids are a prime candidate for 3D printing

After I posted I realised that might have been the case rather than mismatched wheels.

That's unlike you. I'd have thought given someone takes offence at it, particularly Fridge that you'd have left it!

If you're nearby I'd recommend going up and touring around Verdon Gorge, I went climbing there a few years ago in late September and it was spectacular although hot. If you drive up through La Palad sur Verdon and carry on (don't double back along the gorge) then you can find a car park down the bottom where you can walk through the tunnels that were blasted in the past which is well worth it - there are some nice via ferratas along the way as well.

Surprised you didn't go for Disco style setup. After getting fed up of replacing gaiters and/or ball joints for every MOT I decided to bite the bullet and got a Gwyn Lewis conversion kit and boy did it transform the handling.

If I understand what you want to do instead is get rid of the expansion tank by closing the loop on the cooling circuitry? The clue is in the name of the part - it's there for a purpose - to allow the coolant to expand. You need that ability either via a recovery tank (which needs a suitable radiator) or by using the expansion tank setup. Useful description here: http://blog.cantonracingproducts.com/blog/setting_up_your_cooling_system_expansion_vs_recovery

@ianmayco68 just cut some out - although he had a custom gearbox tunnel I think. Once I've moved down to the mansion next week and settled in I might be able to knock up the dimensions from mine.