Ed Poore

Hopefully he meant UJ? Although not something I'd relish changing on the side of the road.

If you've bent it I've got a normal one surplus to requirements . At least I'd expect it to be a normal one from a disc braked 300Tdi 110 CSW.

More details here by the looks of it https://www.offroadlifestyle.com/2018/05/16/il-defender-secondo-tornado-motorsport/

I've found TIG puts in waaay more heat than MIG but maybe that's cos I'm slow? Was sort of tempted but bit blingy for me and don't really have a need and don't have any spare cash so that solved that. I had the same thought over the holes and mud. Curious to know how a dimple die setup would compare to domex on strength vs weight vs cost.

Simples, have more tools than you have space for then you'll have to squish them in . The peli's we use at work (I think we've stopped using genuine Peli's to ship our products because they never come back) come with pick and pluck foam. If you're that bothered then I have a friend with a big laser cutter and she can cut foam on it I think. Normally I'm carrying some welding equipment so gauntlets can add some padding. In all seriousness I usually suffer from the first problem...

As an aside Solent Plastics supply Rose cases which are pretty much on par with Peli (except warranty I think) but probably a tenth of the price.

Surely that just means you can use it on sites as well with 110V?

Thought they went bust. Flat dog took bought the rights I think.

Looks like the rest of your door trim had popped off too

Friend's run Coopers and rate them. I've only ever run BFGs on the Defender and they've been superb. Even the M/Ts have lasted well, think my current set are over 50k since going on. They are getting on though both in age and slashed sidewalls. They are more expensive though for initial purchase although given the mileage normally work out cheaper.

Hope life's on the up now. You forgot to mention all your DIY. I can't believe there isn't another story from those few weeks...

If your employers are the ones asking you to do it I'd still be inclined to see what their thoughts are on sending you on a training course / getting coded? You mention rope guards, are those for stopping people falling over the edge? In todays blame society if one fails (or even a roller fails and then knocks something or someone) do you want the possibility for it to fall back to you? At least if they've given you some formal training there's some protection there. I hate this blame mentality but unfortunately it's the world we live in now. Perfect example, I keep getting phoned up now asking if I want to claim compensation for when I motorbike rode into the back of my 110 in France. He literally knocked some mud off the back of the cross member (OK it is a bit Barkeresque) and didn't even damage the paint. I heard a bang but thought it was a stone being flung out of the tyres. They just don't seem to understand it when I don't want to claim for whiplash... Anyway rant over

Almost true, at least on my cheapo Clarke 130 you have to swap the polarity internally, easy enough to do because they've got thumb screw knobby things. Can never remember which way around they go but there is a helpful diagram inside I think. There is a world of difference I've found though between flux cored and gas shielded welding. Given the option gas any day, although in this scenario I can see why carrying a bottle around with you is undesirable...

Didn't mention R Tech as supposedly it's semi pro but then again there's a chap on mig welding who's put over a tonne of wire through his with no problems at all, in a very short period I think, perhaps even before the warranty ran out. I've got one of their plasma's and a TIG and they're good machines but not that experienced personally.

What the the crane's for then?

If you're wanting light then inverter type will be the way to go. Quite a lot of those I suspect will have MMA functionality to so you're not limited to just MIG. If the budget is no problem then I'd start looking at the big names such as ESAB, Miller, Lincoln and Oxford (assuming you can get them in the UK). I think Brad over on mig-welding.co.uk is one of ESABs reps.

I found them better but may be down to the profile? I found the GGs in the same size started cracking after about 10k which was carp. Ran through £3k of tyres in 3 years on the FF with some laning thrown in. The Duratrac Wranglers have at least 30k on them. Possibly a little noisier as they wear (but then I never really had the opportunity to see when the GGs wore out because the rubber perished or I burst the sidewalls well before the tread ran down) but found them better in every way otherwise.

I don't think Nitro are a bad tyre considering most US based Ultra4 competitors seem to run them now... I've run General Grabber ATs on the FF but to be honest I prefer the Goodyear DuraTracs. They've performed better off road and lasted a hell of a lot longer than the GGs.

A Plan Thatcham. Used them for the last few years with no issues.

Anything's possible if you look at Project Binky. Just trying to save on the amount of work that needs doing if possible, hence recommendations. Guess I could look at original parts.

Ok so there is a genuine reason for this, I'm not just a tart. I got back from 4 days bumbling around Cornwall, with a chance passing with @western on the way home over Bodmin moor. Spectacular weather and views (reminds me a lot of home in Pembrokeshire) but boy it was a pain trying to find beaches to let the dogs cool off. And there in lies the problem... Tangentially! As some may remember I've fitted a set of L322 seats to the 110. I used to be able to reach behind me and open the rear window for the dogs on the move. Since fitting the seats I can, just, if stationary. So I tend to have to make the decision do I open them for the journey or not which is annoying when you hit motorway speeds and the windows are open and can't shut them. So I'm looking at going electric. Easy enough to find lots of kits for the fronts but does anyone have recommendations for the second row doors? Not scared by electrics so only really needs to be the mechanical side of things. Even then modifications aren't an issue but just after any suggestions before spending my hard earned. Not sure whether the fronts would fit given the different shape of the door and I can't remember whether the guts are different or not.

I've got two at the moment, one on the 110 and one sat in the shed awaiting new seals (which involves me making a jig to press the drop arm off). The one on the 110 has a bit of play but is functioning although as to what level I'm not sure. Power steering is heavier than I remember at low speeds so suspect pump and possibly box. If its of any interest it could be made available sooner rather than later but it'll be at least a week and a half before I get time to have a look at swapping them over. Equally I think @Chris Davies had another one in his shed barn when I picked up mine, don't know whether its available or he had it reserved for something. I'm heading back from his / our neck of the woods tomorrow afternoon so if available I could bring it east bound with me.

Is yours a 4 bolt?

James, on the subject of props didn't you want one of mine? Off a 300Tdi 110 with Salisbury. Got the axle too

Tell him its normal behaviour.