Turbocharger

Chris, welcome. I think this calls for a New Year "everyone who's in the south west but doesn't want to drive as far as Payhembury for Luvvers' monthly meeting" pub trip. Hope the new house is good, nice christmas present!

I know the valving is different on a 300Tdi box, although considered opinion is that a Tdi will work with a V8 box, changing in slightly different places, that's all. Don't know if that'd suit an Isuzu lump though.

It's great, except they take so long to screw together there's probably more labour than metal sat there. And they leak everywhere, in and out.

Many people have said I'm just a simple chap, but I'm tickled by this: from here - looks like TroddenMasses' handwriting, actually. JB

Well, the design scheme is tried and tested, collar and tie with a conservative jacket, but are they really sure about that pink?

Isn't a Ninety/110 screen wider at the bottom than the top (and therefore impossible to fit upside-down)? No evidence to support this, just makes sense in my head.

If you're just starting out (I seem to remember you're pretty young?) then sturdy recovery points front & rear (which can be bought or made), some good tested shackles and a decent tow rope or two (different lengths) will see you right most of the time. Do what I did - buy stuff after (or ideally just before) you realise you need it! My kinetic rope came from Paddock in Matlock because they were the best price at the time, but you don't need a kinetic to get you out of the goo. Machine Mart and Screwfix both supply shackles, but make sure it's tested and you get a certificate with each one - Screwfix sell these and I'd cosh you round the head with it if you came to me brandishing it and asking for recovery - you can't guarantee the quality of the material.

Ally's cheaper, but it wears. (I have alloy )

Bish - you've had problems, or not had problems? It's a QT clamp but not on a QT bar, mine are narrower hence the clamp force issues. It's still pretty tight statically, too tight to wiggle by hand. As an aside, my QT diff guard has a bracket on the back which I can only assume is for a RR/Disco damper? Mine's up front because that's where it was, I already have the brackets there and it seems to be less prone to damage in my mind.

Much my thought re exposed threads, but what can I do to retain full steering in both directions unless I buy a new rod? The hoses were unclipped for the damper performance and at 10pm in subzero frost I didn't fancy tidying up - they're fine for the daily commute!

I just went to a Disco/RR type droparm/trackrod end arrangement since the drop arm ball joints kept dying every 6 months. I've got a generic Sumo-type bar although it's not exactly the same, bought from a bloke at a show, cheap. I ordered the damper relocation kit from QT Services, £20 delivered, but it doesn't fit my arm very well. I installed it vertical and packed it with cut-off bits of jubilee clip in the interim but it seems to be working its way down behind the arm slowly. Also, does this look like a sensible amount of thread showing on the TREs? There's 10 threads inside the bar. With the swan-neck and Ninety drop arm I couldn't get full right lock (drag link too long), now I've got full travel but I'm worried it's overextended. Thoughts?

Bring it, we'll have a bonfire.

Now moved to the 28th and places are filling up fast... At the moment it's: Me VeryDisco so get in early and book now to avoid disappointment!

I had this on mine, it was the gauge. Be careful with the temp senders, they snap off easily. At this time of year I'd suggest it's not the viscous unit - I've removed my fan completely at the moment and it only gets warm (>90deg) again if I'm offroading and working the engine hard.

The length/diameter/bends will all affect the pressure drop along the snorkel - what's acceptable? I asked a thermofluids lecturer at Uni on this subject - he said it's difficult to estimate because the flow is turbulent, you'd need lots of CFD work or some qualitative data. I'm going to do before/after power curves with my GPS oojit but, for example, I'm running 2.5" plastic drainpipe on my Tdi and I do see a power drop before 4000rpm. I'd suggest you'll see no real reduction in power below 4000rpm WOT or 6000rpm part-throttle. As Mr Falklands said earlier, it's not about revs... I looked at tuning a snorkel on my 2.25D, but for best results at peak torque it'd have to be about 20ft long - which probably negates the benefits somewhat.

But on a 1 in 8 hill, the difference is only 2.8%... I've found major flaws with the altitude calculation anyway, especially when the unit is using less than 6 satellites, so you'd probably be better off without the correction anyway! JB

It's John, but you're welcome. Is the problem that the +ve is actually fluctuating (relative the battery negative), or that the earth voltage is being dragged up by heavy load/poor connection?

A mate's Dad has just bought a P38a, 4.0 manual in white(!) and it has a Special Vehicles plate under the bonnet. The police deny it was theirs and there's no suspicious holes in the roof, headlining or dashboard. The reg no is not the original and is non-transferrable. £5 has been duly sent to DVLA and a letter to LR asking about the history, but any clues while we're waiting?

[Homer] Mmmmm..... unspruuuung weight. [/Homer]

... except that the energy is proportional to the square of the speed. Leave him alone, we're all singing from the same hymn sheet here. B)

Is it pre-Wolf? A mate had an ex-Army 110CSW with a V8 in it - he enquired about it's history and got no details at all. Someone mentioned something about nuclear testing and the military came and 'compulsorily purchased' it from him. Anyway, that was a V8 but pre-Wolf.

Any clues for fitment options on a 300Tdi if I've got a winch pump where the aircon pump would sit? Or should I just go electric with a big reservoir?

Red - spot on and I agree totally (that's why there's a raging rad muff market for LRs) but I think 02's talking about a Caterham project car.

Nope, you want high airflow to increase the heat transferred - you're not trying to heat a small volume of air, you're trying to shift a lot of heat. The heat transfer coefficient will be boosted by higher flow. If you're interested, higher speeds boost the Reynolds number which means that term dominates the Nusselt number term in the HTC. When you're ducting a radiator, the frontal area doesn't need to be large at higher speeds but remember that you will never see peak efficiency with a rad which is ducted both sides - you'll never match the flows across the full speed range. Much better to have it free-ducted or ducted-free unless you want to spend lots of time with a calculator or CFD software!

I *believe* it's the same gear for a 1.2 box too - I certainly reused mine when I swapped and it works remarkably well...