Christophers1247

I speak from experience when I say Toyotas are no more reliable than land rovers when it really gets down to it the company I work for has both. the Toyotas do break down less but a standard hilux will not go where a standard defender will go even though the yotas have a locking rear diff. so when I say they break down less its because they drillers that drive them leave the Toyotas where they think they can get to and walk the rest of the way where as the guys driving the 110s just say I can get up that and put them in the most insane places so they break them more often. also I am with sorn £550!!! for a hilux front drive shaft and you can only get them one place....the dealer where as one of the landys breaks one in some remote location a couple of phone calls later oh we have one in stock £80-£100 job done.

can you change gear with the engine off. possibly clutch if you can.

I was very impressed with some cobalt franklin drill bits I bought from ebay. don't no about drilling out 10.9 I cant remember doing it but I probably did at one point also they were 5% m35 I will see if I can drill out a 10.9 or 12.9 at work on Monday. Just had a though after posting the above I have a set of snap on extractors and it has some very good left hand drill bits in the set wonder what they are made of? they have defiantly drilled out a 10.9 and possibly a 12.9 I did blunt a couple on a bolt in an engine block that another fitter had roasted a few times and hardened it but nothing would touch that.

Sealey LED360 in green (so I don't lose it) Got it from a well known auction site. something bay. its expensive but works great even after the first time I ran over it with a low loader. it didn't survive the second time. I use it everyday for 4 to 5 hours constant. charge it up at night and its good to go again. max about 8 hours from a single charge and it takes about 1 hour to charge.

It would work for what you want to do you would just need to plan ahead and give the compressor a chance to cool down if spraying for a long time. A bigger tank solves this problem but they are more money. The fact that it is a 10 bar(150psi) model is an advantage as most air tools run at 90psi or less so it gives you an extra buffer between a full tank and the motor kicking in again. Also for spraying u need to get a water trap/filter/regulator.

would love a set of mog portal axles on the landy hard to find in the uk. well for my budget anyway.

sounds like turbo seals you wouldnt get oil pooling in your exhaust from valve stem seals. remove your intake to the turbo and check for play in the impeller there should be a little up and down and almost no in and out play but if the impeller hits the turbo casing the turbo is u/s

norbar or britool are the ones i would go for. i dont trust the tengtools torque wrenchs as we never tested an accurate one even brand new. the company i worked for always used britool then bought a load of tengtools tested them and sent them back everyone was out some more than others but all more than 3%

i use the facom/portasol gas iron works great had a snapon version in the past and lasted about a year then wouldnt light facom one is 3 years old and still going.

there are a few tricks of the trade like frax said a good knock with a hammer works wonders if not i wouldnt hesitate to get the welder out weld a nut to a washer then to the rounded of bolt or a bit if flat bar or long bolt to the rounded bolt making a sort of welded on breaker bar then u can knock the flat bar with a hammer until somthing happens.grind of the head as you suggested then weld an over size nut to the stud or try stud extractor. mole grips probably wont work but u might get lucky but my favorite and one i have had success with rounded bolts are irwin screw and bolt extractors they are sockets with reverse fluts that grip the bolt as u turn u can pick them up for £15 or so at most places that sell tools. http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bolt-extractors/bolt-extractors

have you checked inside the pressure switch for burnt contacts. as the pressure builds the motor will work a bit harder so if you have burnt contacts it will cause an overload due to the bad connection. either that or the capacitor inside the case ontop of the motor is faulty.

i have tried this not with a compressor that small i tried it on a 3hp direct drive 2.2kw compressor hooked up to the 6000w ring inverter in my work van supplied by 2 numax truck batteries and there own 90 amp alternator. plugged in van running switched on the compressor and nothing wouldnt even turn the motor looked at the reading on the inverter and it had frozen at 12000w the max output from the inverter. a compressor even a small one can pull 10 times the running current on startup.

i would keep it they are great welders work good with most rods 7018 or 6013 even hard facing rods. get a good set of heavy duty leads and your in business i presume its 3 phase.

i have had nothing but good luck with sealey compressors started off with a 50ltr direct drive v-twin which is still being used by a friend after 7 years. moved on to a 100ltr 3hp belt drive then added a 200ltr external tank used that for 3 years worked fine and have now upgraded to a 270ltr 3 phase 10hp and still using the external 200ltr tank. they are all still running so i would recommend them. but i also use a petrol clarke compressor for mobile repairs and it is also very good and very powerfull due to the petrol engine loads of air can run a 1 inch impact fine so i think s long as you go for a good name it will be ok.

i have had nothing but good luck with sealey compressors started off with a 50ltr direct drive v-twin which is still being used by a friend after 7 years. moved on to a 100ltr 3hp belt drive then added a 200ltr external tank used that for 3 years worked fine and have now upgraded to a 270ltr 3 phase 10hp and still using the external 200ltr tank. they are all still running so i would recommend them. but i also use a petrol clarke compressor for mobile repairs and it is also very good and very powerfull due to the petrol engine loads of air can run a 1 inch impact fine so i think s long as you go for a good name it will be ok.

my britool 3/4 set has stood the test of time even with very heavy use and in the mud and rain most days. also have a britool 1" set that is also in good order repaired the ratchet once due to a bit of extra force being used (a 8ft scaffie tube and a forklift carriage). have seen the petrol impact guns in 1" but would choose my air impact any day over 2000nm of torque makes it intersting if not properly braced.

it is normal to be able to pump the primer a few times after the engine has been run most diesel engines with a primer pump are the same but it shouldnt take a few minutes more like a few seconds or 7-10 pumps max. you have to remember that there is one big air hole in the system the filler cap and there are no one way valves anywhere up to the fuel filter so what is happening when u switch off the engine is any fuel in the pickup from the tank is flowing back to the tank so when start the engine again for a few seconds u draw air up to the filter until the system effectivly bleeds itself.

It depends on what you want. they both lock the diff in basically they same way only one uses air and one uses electrictiy. i use arbs because already have an air supply onboard and i can use this to pump up tyres. i would imagine kams are slightly easier to fit as you only have to run an electrical supply to it where as air locker require air hoses and an electrical supply for the compressor. Limited slip diffs (LSD's) work by transmitting a limited amount of torque to the wheel with the most traction allowing you to keep moving the benifit is that this happens automaticly through the diff but somtime there not very effective. there are 3 types clutch type viscous coupling type and another a cant remember the name off. Hope this helps.

any idea of the injector condition have they been out recently how many miles has the engine done.

classic symptoms of an earth fault unfortunatly they can be hard to track down as there are several earth points on any vehicle its up to you where you start i personally would start at the battery clean up the negitive connection on the battery and the chassis this can solve lots of earth faults straight away after that its just your luck but look at the easy access places first.

i have used a few parts washers in workshops i have worked in ranging from a bucket with red diesel to those heated automatic parts cleaners like a big dishwasher which are the best but cost ££££s and have found that red diesel works as well or better than most purpose made fluid avalible so now i work mobile from a van thats what i use a 25ltr drum of red diesel and a drum cut in half parts in the half drum bit of diesel in and away you go cheap easy and affective.

i have 2 sealey yankee 3000CXD jacks had one for about 4 years and the other about 2 both working fine after heavy use every day lifting lrs,vans and tractors would buy anoher one tomorrow if needed. not flash a bit heavy but do the job.

big impact gun and locktight will never move.

i asume its inside the hose its coming from depending on how much oil we are talking about its normal or lots of oil turbo seals.

font diff sounds ok wouldnt worry about it not turning in the other direction could be that the brakes are tight on the front. but if u have a lot of slop in the rear diff normaly results in a whinning noise best way to test a faulty diff is turn full lock stick ur head out the window and listen for any loud whinning noise front or rear.