Christophers1247

Another thing u could try is as above using a liquid metal compound but instead of drilling and tapping it out use it to secure a stud in the stripped hole then just screw a nut onto the stud with a big washer to spread the load if possible and job done no drilling or tapping and you might even be able to do it with the box in place.

one caterpillar 12v marine battery from finning left standing in the garage for a year while i rebuilt the landy connected it up and started it first time like it was new never charged but very ££££ numax or bosch both good never use yusa from dingbro.

19mart82 just beat me to it spot on as long as the diff ratios are the same dosent matter about the drive shafts

u can get this fault with fuses they can have small hairline cracks in them so they bell ut ok but when u pass current through them they fail thats why u got voltage but no current. more comon on the bolt on mega fuses than the blade type.

the engine might not sieze up if there is water inside a cylinder it would jam up when the cylinder tried to compress the water as water does not compress it stops the engine dead or bends valves buckles heads or worse to releave the pressure.

to be completly sure u could remove the rocker cover and check for bent valves or water sitting in the head.

get a spanner or socket onto the crank pulley nut if te engine turns over freely it will be fine.

sounds like the original starter welded the solenoid contact tips together . as the feed side for the starter has a constant +12 from the battery even with the key out it would continue to crank until the battery was disconnected. this could be down to the motor armature or brushes being worn or burnt drawing a high current through the solenoid.

sound like a battery fault low battery voltage high current might have jammed ur starter relay on due to burnt contact tips and as soon as u fitted the new starter and connected the battery tried to start and fried the new starter due to massive current. have seen starters burnt out like this but usualy not instantly like you discribed takes a few times then goes. is the starter system ok... apart from the motor.

would have thought the relay would have popped before the starter. does sound like a short or a faulty new starter?

it cant be to bad if it worked to start. i bought a similar air gun when i was a first year apprentice took it to work connected it to the airline and it wouldnt work stripped it and found metal shavings inside the vane motor housing and was told by one of the fitters thats wat u get for buying rubbish. now got 2 cp guns and 2 sealeys all good quality.

air has to be clean and dry star with a low pressure say 4-5 bar and increase pressure until u get the required effect ( if ur blasting aluminium low pressure work slowly) could be a blockage in the shot feed line.

no it cant be done (easily) you would have to swap over the pistons injection pump and camshaft. pistons because 19j engine is and indirect injection engine with precombustion chambers the 200 & 300tdi engines are direct injecton engines with swirel pots or chambers ontop of each piston unlike the 19js which are flat with a v groove on top.

follow manufacturers guidlines some say avoid hard braking others say gradually heat up the brakes over a time just depends on wat the instructions say.

thats a new one (to me anyway) i would have gone down the same route as u sounds like a broken bolt in the caliper but if there ok. i wouldnt think it was a bush or u would here it everytime u braked. almost sounds like the handbrake is sticking then when u brake it releasing (boinging springs) but due to the transmission brake setup i wouldnt imagine its that. could be wrong though.

Are there any bleed nipples on the system that were hard to free off. done a disco the other day that the owner had tried to bleed his own brakes and got nothing. took me a while to find that the o/s rear bleed nipple was not sealing correctly so evey time i pumped the pedal it was just sucking air through the faulty nipple. just a thought. Ps required a new caliper to fix the problem.

I agree radiator is at fault thats wat mine was like fine at idle fine offroading and fine around town as soon as u pick up speed over 50 temp rises a fair bit found bottom half of the radiator was missing fins replaced it fine now.

a tip for bleeding any diesel turn on ignition remove diesel filler cap from tank and blow compressed air into the tank slowly building up pressure using a rag as a seal round the cap if possible get somone to turn it over while u do this it has never failed me even on machines with primer pump.

as said u cant run a compressor that size from a portable generator with less than 13hp or 10kva I work as a mobile service engineer for a plant hire company and with lots of compressors and generators about have tried it 10kva diesel generator wont run a clarke 2hp compressor due to the startup current being up to 10 times the 13 amp rating only for a few milli seconds but enough to drop the generator and nearly cut it out. i run a large petrol compressor for big air tools and have a small sip 6ltr compressor run of an inverter to keep the tank topped up when petrol engine isnt running during stop start use. the small sip is only 1hp and draws nearly 8000w during start up.

Has the 94 had a suspension lift kit fitted ?

Standard 200tdi with bosh two spring 0432193879 injectors with nozzle type dsla145p208 and a garret t25 turbo at standard boost pressure 0.78 bar max has a stoichiometric air fuel ratio of 10:1. as you will all know Dodecane C12H26 has a=18.5 and molecular weight 170 so if you do the math AFR = a(MWO2+0.79/0.21*MWN2)/MWfuel most diesels come out with an optimal fuel to air ratio of 14.95:1 so standard tdis are not far off . now consider the 200tdi engine mentioned before. this had a fuel air ratio of 17:1 due to as said before fuel injection pump and turbo being messed with. this engine is running on the dangerous side of the optimal stoichiometric fuel air ratio for this engine. and due to the wear of surrounding components such as the oil and water pump cooling was not as efficient as a new unit this caused the engine to overheat and do the aforementioned damage. saying the engine was running lean is the wrong terminology but it was the best way to describe the above without going into to much detail.

I have just pulled the cylinder head off a 200tdi engine from a defender this morning with the exact same issues you are having massive oil consumption no signs of leaks. cylinder's 2 and 3 are badly worn as are the rings and piston 3 has a big crack on the crown. this was due to the under piston oil jets failing faulty oil pump and the previous owner messing with the injection pump timing causing the engine to run lean.

Is there any play vertically on the impeller/turbine shaft cause it sound like the turbo bearing could be on the way out(super charger whining sound)and low pressure due to the shaft binding when spinning at 22000rpm. As for the boost pressure it could be jammed wastegate or an inlet manifold gasket leak.

Using 10 ltrs of oil for only 750 miles is not good. It sounds like it is either piston rings or valve stem oil seals. In an ideal world you would see blue smoke for oil and black for over fueling but this is not always the case. you could find out if it was the rings by doing a compression test or get it done by a diesel/land rover garage. Low compression would suggest piston rings. should be around 425 psi (if my memory serves me right).

As Les has already said a slipping clutch won't cause an engine to overheat. But if the thermostat turns out to be OK it could be a split air intake causing the engine to run lean(hot), blocked/faulty radiator but when you do a coolant system flush it will eliminate this. faulty water pump, it could even be a faulty temp gauge not likely but i have had it before on 200tdi. does it overheat on idle or when driving?