Escape

As @Bowie69 says, there are 4-posters that don't bolt down, but have a wheel at each corner with nothing more than a brake. No frame at the base, maybe the sliders at the posts are designed to take more than just a vertical load but I doubt it, given the price of these lifts (often marketed as movable parking lifts). I remember when putting up our lifts there were very detailed instructions for bolting down the 2-posters, but not so much for the 4-posters. It's just to keep the legs from spreading and to keep everything in place when driving onto the lift. So an H-frame or even better a triangulated box will do just fine. It wouldn't even have to be that thick as most of the force will be outward so the frame will be loaded in tension. Flat bar should suffice, taking up little space.

There's a beautiful one called Milly at Brooklands. Apparently used to move some planes around the site as well.

I went to see a s/h 2013 Puma yesterday for a customer. Asking price is €40k, with little room for negotiation. Some options and kit fitted, but it drove poorly, probably due to the ECU remap that seemed to have killed all low down grunt. For what he wants/need, I think I'm gonna recommend a Grenadier (there, back on topic! 🙂 ).

The TD5 could be specced with all of those as well, just not as standard. Which probably suited part of the customers (like myself at the time) and kept prices down.

Actually yes, I've had to replace 2 taillight units on moderns because some of the LEDs weren't working anymore. I don't know if the LEDs themselves failed or the elektrickery to switch them on, all sealed so throw away and replace. Painfully expensive, especially compared to the price of a bulb or even LED replacement.

I'm still not convinced adding all that complexity will make things more reliable. As for adding weight, you need a bigger cable if it has to carry all the current, so it wont be much lighter than separate wires. But it will introduce a single point of failure. Sensing for a blown bulb can be done at the switch, no need for much extra wiring. It was done like that in 80s by Merc and Lotus (for the fan fail warning light, not the lights) to name 2. Sure, if you want all kinda gizmos like lights staying on or blinking merry xmas you might be better off with a taillight ECU. Not if you just want them to work and be able to fix or bodge them if/when needed. So fine for the new LR Defender as a lifestyle vehicle, not so much for the Grenadier that was hyped to be rugged and field repairable. I don't like talking to a black box and hoping it does what I expect it, though I accept that's probably what most people prefer these days. Me, I like to know what I'm doing. Or at least pretend to. 😉

While I agree to most of this, I just can't let this pass. What's wrong with just a switch and possibly a relay?? I don't need or want a computer to control my taillights! And if the switch should fail, I'll simply bypass it and carry on. As I have done on my Excel, broken headlight switch fixed with a Leatherman and piece of copper wire on the side of the road. I've looked at a similar bypass on my project P38 (in case I should ever drown the BECM), but that's not so straightforward. But possible, just because there is a dedicated wire for everything. I don't even want to think what it would take in something more recent...

It is a known problem on the later Discovery and Range Rover Sport, but it's (usually) not the pipes not being connected. The problem is the heater core has a tendency to gunk up internally, so less water flow and reduced heat output. You can try flushing it through a couple of times. The proper fix is to replace the heater core, but that required taking apart most of the dashboard...

I've got room for that. And a brook for cooling at the back, if necessary. 🙂

If it's anything like it's big brother BMW diesel in the P38, it could be down to wear in the injection pump. Hot starts uses as little diesel as possible to reduce emissions, as the engine ages that's not always enough to guarantee a quick start. It is possible to bypass the temperature sensor (with a timer) so the ECU thinks it's colder when starting, works a treat.

3-spokes look good on any Range Rover, even in the bigger sizes.

2 weeks ago @elbekko and myself took our P38s on a little trip to France to visit a good friend who now lives there (@Belgian_Dude on here, but no longer active). Naturally we wanted to do a bit of greenlaning, it had been far far too long since we went off road together. Some nice roads, beautiful views of the area and then a small mishap meant we had an excuse to get the winching gloves out. 😎 Oops Let's try airing down Nope, get the P38 out of the way to let the Classic pass and winch it back on the road. And finally plant the flag at Iwo Jima. Err, I mean, fix the fence we needed to open to avoid doing further damage to both the Rangie and grass. By winching it out we managed to avoid leaving any significant trails, as can be seen. Yes, I was VERY happy to be a winchbitch again. 😄 Great friends & great times!

I'm no stranger to strong opinions. 😉 And I agree about the driving character, that's my main problem with EV conversions of classic cars as well. And the reason I would never even consider it. But on the aesthetic side this doesn't look too bad I think. Certainly very recognisable as a Classic, no?

That's a bit harsh, isn't it? I'm not really a fan, but it does keep most of the Classic lines and character (maybe not once you're driving it). The wheels are not too big, especially compared to current trends and the bumpers not that far of the Brooklands kit. May not be to everyones taste, but there's far worse out there. Anything by Kahn for example... @Bowie69 we're allowed a lot on here, don't hold back. 😉

I have my doubts on the double wishbone suspension. I'm sure it's better on the road, but seems like a very poor compromise due to the short arms. Probably better to start from a more recent LR platform. I'm sure there are those happy to spend that kinda money to get a different looking Chelsea tractor. 😁

That sounds more like a bad case of limp home? Do diagnostics turn up any fault codes?

Just to be sure, try to have a look underneath to see if the props are turning with the car in gear. With the TorSen center diff, if one axle is spinning freely, the car wont be going anywhere. As said, usually a problem with the early ones that stripped the splines on the front diff flange but might be a similar problem on a later one.

If we're gonna post that kind of pictures 😁: here's another V8, with the gearbox behind the boxes. It took 5 people to lift it into the boot. Sadly the engine is still sitting on the pallet, after over a year...

The transfer box could have been replaced by an adapter to connect a prop directly to the gearbox. Or a different gearbox fitted, one meant to have an output flange instead of a transfer box. Not being able to actually see the vehicle does complicate matters! Can't you ask someone local(ish) to go and have a look? I've had fellow forum members go look at a car for sale on Ebay for me on several occasions.

I'd have good look underneath to see if there actually still is a transfer box and not an attempt at a 2wd conversion.

Does the pulse have a higher (legal or technical) GVW than the 3500 kg of a 130?

Just showed those to the missus. I have a birthday coming up next month. 😎

It's not wrong to have a thought about the state of the rear floor, as they can (will) get rusty. But there are plenty of reinforcements, so the rust needs to be really bad before there is a risk to the fuel tank. Most importantly, a gearbox isn't that heavy. 😉 Once you start putting in several 100kg, you do want to look at weight distribution (mainly for handling) and avoid concentrating the load on a small surface so as not to overload the (possibly rusted) floor. A pallet is great for spreading a load and to avoid pointy metal bits digging into the floor.

As above, start with bleeding the clutch hydraulics. Air in the system will expand as things warm up and that will make the clutch harder to disengage.

You can lift an R380 on your own, so the Disco will hardly notice it. 🙂 I've carried between 600 and 1000kgs of stuff in the back of my Range Rover on more than one occasion... I don't think the EAS likes me for it, but it did the job!