Escape

Even if the exhaust valve remains open there is a NRV that should ensure pressure still gets into the system. If the diaphragm valve is leaking, you will lose pressure through the exhaust silencer, that is something to check. I agree with @elbekko it's unlikely that the compressor is causing the faults, more like the ECU wont engage the compressor because it sees too many faults. A good way to test the system with diagnostics is to connect a mains compressor (or a decent 12V one) to the top line going into the dryer. That will keep the tank topped up so you have pressure available when trying the valves. Just remember to disconnect the compressor if you want to deflate, as exhaust air goes through the same line. Do you have the EAS information document? It gives more details than Raven useful for troubleshooting. Good luck!

Good that you've found the wire that caused the fuse to blow! As for the faults, that's a pretty comprehensive list. Which could actually be a good thing. I'd say some connection error caused them, so start by clearing and see which (if any) return. It could even be the kicker caused the errors when it was used with the brown wire (which is the permanent 12V feed) lose. The ECU's rarely fail, but if you need one I have several on the shelve and could post next week when I'm in UK.

I've used the 38mm ones to bridge a ditch to be able to 'escape' with my Defender when they had just poured the concrete in front of our house years ago. They seemed to cope just fine. When loading the trailer, we're using the full 1.5m of length of the 50mm boards, the 38mm ones are only 1.2m (I think), so the bending forces are lower. The sides of a ditch or similar also have a bit more give than concrete and the trailer, makes it all a bit easier on the boards.

I'm using a pair of 50mm boards as loading ramps for the car trailer. Lighter than the steel alternatives and a lot cheaper, but they have suffered when loading the skidsteer.

Back on topic, if the table is only about 10cm too long, can't you put it on its side and too the left? That way the door only needs to be left open a bit instead of all the way. If leaving it open all the way, it might be wise to take off the spare (if fitted) to reduce the load on the hinges and have less weight potentially flapping about.

Now you tell me! 🙂

As @elbekko says, we never had problems getting Facom replaced under warranty. Can't remember ever being asked for a receipt. The flea market ratchet wasn't me though, but our mate Wouter. A couple of years ago I asked about servicing one of their fast ratchets (with the turning handle) as it was getting a bit stiff. They took a good look and replaced it with a new model for free. "We no longer service those". I'm all for fixing stuff instead of replacing, but didn't complain. 🙂

That looks lovely! A colleague showed it to me, he and his wife are big Lego fans. I haven't bought or built a set in 15 years or so... but this is tempting! The license plate is a nice touch as well. 😎 Price over here is expected to be around €250.

The speedo signal comes from the ABS ECU. But for that to fail, multiple sensors would need to fail and you're likely to have gotten errors earlier. First thing to check is the wiring to the ECU. As said, reading the codes should point you in the right direction.

Then your dealers do a better job than over here. Most (if not all) dealer serviced cars are never put on the ramp, the oil is just sucked out as it's faster and cheaper. I've seen clear signs when doing a first service after warranty.

Sounds a lot like an infomerchial... I'm sure they got a good deal on their Grenadier. I don't really get it though, if they don't do offroad, surely there are better tow cars to be found, less compromised on road. Like the new Defender, or a Disco or Range. Also made me chuckle when he was praising the lack of elektronics and at the same time showing the center Ipad that replaces the traditional dash. 😁

If the front pulley is still on, you can use a strap wrench on that. Often that will give just enough resistance for an impact to loosen the bolt.

Lovely convoy! I remember a good mate that is also into tractors (and got me to buy a Deutz D4005 a few years ago) had a similar problem with a crack in the block, I think on an Allis Chalmers. He got it fixed reliably by stitching and brazing it himself. He is a pretty good welder. I could ask for details, any excuse to talk about tractors will be welcomed I'm sure. 🙂

To be fair, the parts for a Rover V8 are not expensive, unless you go over the top. A standard cam will do just fine, a Piper or Crower high torque one is a bit more but worth the money. But like others I am worried about the quality of more generic parts when buying new, not only the lifters but also things like the water pump, thermostat, hoses...

This is all about bureaucracy, nothing to do with the environment. So if you can get a sticker that says you're allowed in, just get it and be done with it. No one will check actual emissions, as long as the paperwork checks out. If you don't have documents stating the emission class, the default is by date of first registration. Especially in a model like the Defender that was pretty much unchanged 'till 2007 (or even 2016). I'm in the opposite situation in Brussels: my other Range Rover, begin converted to commercial, doesn't have an official document stating the emission class. So the year of registration applies, meaning it was knocked down from Euro2 to Euro1 even though nothing mechanical was changed. And no longer allowed in. Still way cheaper to pay the emission tax @€1400/year than the roadtax for non-commercial. Filip

As above, the endfloat of the camshaft will be taken up by the load from the distributor drive. I would replace the chain, as that does have some slack and there is no tensioner to adjust. Better replace while your in there, it can (will) make quite a difference to performance.

Power to the OBD socket goes through the infamous connectors at the bottom of the A-posts. They often suffer from corrosion, causing all kinds of problems. I'd start by taking off the trim on the outside of the RH footwell and checking (cleaning) the connectors.

We had to admit defeat yesterday trying to get the tyres of a set of old Vogues. First 6 were not problem, but then the machine sprung a leak and didn't have enough force left to break the beads. So it can take quite a bit of effort. We'll try fixing the machine first, but it's good to have alternatives. I tried it under the press once, but that didn't go as well as hoped.

Too bad Milemarkers and parts are so hard to come by in Europe these days. I still have one I salvaged from the fire and want to rebuild for my P38...

It's not uncommon for a TD5 to start and run even with a non-functioning electric fuel pump. But it will be low on power and might not run on all 5. Seems to fit your symptoms. You could always take off the feed to the fpr and run the pump to check flow (and pressure, if you have a suitable gauge). When you say you've taken the head off, I assume (hope) you only mean the valve cover to access the injector loom? Never hurts to give those connectors a good clean.

I'd say I see about 5 per week, most look more or less standard, with just a few options/gimmicks. Most seem to be used for the school or work run, not as working vehicles. I did come across a black-on-black blinged out one with huge rims sporting 305s, so obviously not a working vehicle in the sense of some old Defenders. But is was towing a 3-axle trailer and had stickers for an interior cleaning and decoration company, so probably was on the job. I'd say it replaced a Cayenne or such as a tow car, with the off road abilities being totally irrelevant.

No problem, if you have the flywheel and clutch, as well as the bell housing and associated hydraulics you will be fine. The V8 doesn't care if it's mated to a manual or autobox, I've done the conversion a couple of times now. 😉

That's exactly how my compressor was delivered! With oil all over the box. I refilled, but it only lasted a few months so must have sustained some damage. Took me a bit of arguing to get it replaced under warranty. Luckily I had made a complaint about the delivery and mentioned the damage, so in the end I did get a new one for free.

I'm very happy with my CTek. For your use I'd say 5.0, 7.0 or 10, depending on the size of batteries you usually deal with. The cheaper ones from Lidl etc will have a hard time dealing with large batteries. And I've known them to kill batteries when left on trickle. Something I'd never worry about with a Ctek, but don't do anyway.

Too bad... Weren't the later ones easier to bypass though? As even BMW realised the security was to complicated on the first batch of L322s.