Escape

Now you tell me! 🙂

As @elbekko says, we never had problems getting Facom replaced under warranty. Can't remember ever being asked for a receipt. The flea market ratchet wasn't me though, but our mate Wouter. A couple of years ago I asked about servicing one of their fast ratchets (with the turning handle) as it was getting a bit stiff. They took a good look and replaced it with a new model for free. "We no longer service those". I'm all for fixing stuff instead of replacing, but didn't complain. 🙂

That looks lovely! A colleague showed it to me, he and his wife are big Lego fans. I haven't bought or built a set in 15 years or so... but this is tempting! The license plate is a nice touch as well. 😎 Price over here is expected to be around €250.

The speedo signal comes from the ABS ECU. But for that to fail, multiple sensors would need to fail and you're likely to have gotten errors earlier. First thing to check is the wiring to the ECU. As said, reading the codes should point you in the right direction.

Then your dealers do a better job than over here. Most (if not all) dealer serviced cars are never put on the ramp, the oil is just sucked out as it's faster and cheaper. I've seen clear signs when doing a first service after warranty.

Sounds a lot like an infomerchial... I'm sure they got a good deal on their Grenadier. I don't really get it though, if they don't do offroad, surely there are better tow cars to be found, less compromised on road. Like the new Defender, or a Disco or Range. Also made me chuckle when he was praising the lack of elektronics and at the same time showing the center Ipad that replaces the traditional dash. 😁

If the front pulley is still on, you can use a strap wrench on that. Often that will give just enough resistance for an impact to loosen the bolt.

Lovely convoy! I remember a good mate that is also into tractors (and got me to buy a Deutz D4005 a few years ago) had a similar problem with a crack in the block, I think on an Allis Chalmers. He got it fixed reliably by stitching and brazing it himself. He is a pretty good welder. I could ask for details, any excuse to talk about tractors will be welcomed I'm sure. 🙂

To be fair, the parts for a Rover V8 are not expensive, unless you go over the top. A standard cam will do just fine, a Piper or Crower high torque one is a bit more but worth the money. But like others I am worried about the quality of more generic parts when buying new, not only the lifters but also things like the water pump, thermostat, hoses...

This is all about bureaucracy, nothing to do with the environment. So if you can get a sticker that says you're allowed in, just get it and be done with it. No one will check actual emissions, as long as the paperwork checks out. If you don't have documents stating the emission class, the default is by date of first registration. Especially in a model like the Defender that was pretty much unchanged 'till 2007 (or even 2016). I'm in the opposite situation in Brussels: my other Range Rover, begin converted to commercial, doesn't have an official document stating the emission class. So the year of registration applies, meaning it was knocked down from Euro2 to Euro1 even though nothing mechanical was changed. And no longer allowed in. Still way cheaper to pay the emission tax @€1400/year than the roadtax for non-commercial. Filip

As above, the endfloat of the camshaft will be taken up by the load from the distributor drive. I would replace the chain, as that does have some slack and there is no tensioner to adjust. Better replace while your in there, it can (will) make quite a difference to performance.

Power to the OBD socket goes through the infamous connectors at the bottom of the A-posts. They often suffer from corrosion, causing all kinds of problems. I'd start by taking off the trim on the outside of the RH footwell and checking (cleaning) the connectors.

We had to admit defeat yesterday trying to get the tyres of a set of old Vogues. First 6 were not problem, but then the machine sprung a leak and didn't have enough force left to break the beads. So it can take quite a bit of effort. We'll try fixing the machine first, but it's good to have alternatives. I tried it under the press once, but that didn't go as well as hoped.

Too bad Milemarkers and parts are so hard to come by in Europe these days. I still have one I salvaged from the fire and want to rebuild for my P38...

It's not uncommon for a TD5 to start and run even with a non-functioning electric fuel pump. But it will be low on power and might not run on all 5. Seems to fit your symptoms. You could always take off the feed to the fpr and run the pump to check flow (and pressure, if you have a suitable gauge). When you say you've taken the head off, I assume (hope) you only mean the valve cover to access the injector loom? Never hurts to give those connectors a good clean.

I'd say I see about 5 per week, most look more or less standard, with just a few options/gimmicks. Most seem to be used for the school or work run, not as working vehicles. I did come across a black-on-black blinged out one with huge rims sporting 305s, so obviously not a working vehicle in the sense of some old Defenders. But is was towing a 3-axle trailer and had stickers for an interior cleaning and decoration company, so probably was on the job. I'd say it replaced a Cayenne or such as a tow car, with the off road abilities being totally irrelevant.

No problem, if you have the flywheel and clutch, as well as the bell housing and associated hydraulics you will be fine. The V8 doesn't care if it's mated to a manual or autobox, I've done the conversion a couple of times now. 😉

That's exactly how my compressor was delivered! With oil all over the box. I refilled, but it only lasted a few months so must have sustained some damage. Took me a bit of arguing to get it replaced under warranty. Luckily I had made a complaint about the delivery and mentioned the damage, so in the end I did get a new one for free.

I'm very happy with my CTek. For your use I'd say 5.0, 7.0 or 10, depending on the size of batteries you usually deal with. The cheaper ones from Lidl etc will have a hard time dealing with large batteries. And I've known them to kill batteries when left on trickle. Something I'd never worry about with a Ctek, but don't do anyway.

Too bad... Weren't the later ones easier to bypass though? As even BMW realised the security was to complicated on the first batch of L322s.

You should be fine with the current wiring, you just wont have much margin to run other power tools when the compressor engages. For reference, over here we can use up to 3.5kW on a single 230V socket, which would be wired at 2.5mm² (unless on an long run) and fused at 20A. Appliances up to 3kW are quite common (heaters etc). Never heard of any problems, on a proper installation that is. As to the compressor, it looks very nice! If a bit expensive. I'm always surprised at the big price increase going from a large hobby compressor to small industrial one, for seemingly little gain in performance. Which is why I run one of the bigger Stanley DIY ones, 2.2kW, 350l/min and ca €250. Very happy with it, though I admit I don't often use air tools so it's mainly for tyres, cleaning, topping up the EAS and running the safety catches on the lift.

That's not entirely correct: an open diff will give a 50/50 torque split but will allow rotation (and thus power) to differ. So axle/wheel with the lowest traction determines the torque that can be applied, with one slipping this will be almost zero. A locked diff will maintain equal rotation, but will transfer torque (and thus power) to the side that can take the most. So the torque split can be anywhere between 100/0 and 0/100. Which means only one axle needs traction to keep moving and can potentially receive all the torque available. ATBs are in between, but much closer to a locked diff in terms of possible torque split so almost all of the advantages but none of the disadvantages. Your explication about wheels losing traction is correct of course, just nitpicking on the physics behind it. 😉

Yes, there is a difference in direction. The water pump and thus the fan turn in the opposite direction to the crank on a serpentine V8, whereas on the earlier V-belts they turn in the same direction. So you do need to take that into account.

I always found the TD5 much nicer than the Tdci. 😉

No doubt aimed at the lifestyle crowd/ soccer players that want something different from an AMG G-class, but can't quite afford a tricked out Bentayga. 😄